SugarMouth
Drag Race Newbie
- Location
- Nevada
Oval slots that provide adjustment.
Attachments
-
IMG_1367 (2).JPG
7
BFI Stage 1 Engine & Tranny Mounts
- Thread starter SugarMouth
- Start date
Oval slots that provide adjustment.
Predatorbird
Ready to race!
- Location
- FL
What kind of problems were you having that made you double check your alignment? I remember a notch on the bottom of the trans mount that when I set into place, all of the bolts lined up perfectly. I've had no vibrations or anything weird, but I'll have to double check the alignment on both mounts.
On the engine mount...I received 3 bolts in the package from BFI. Is this normal? I saw some listings that showed 4 bolts. The front fender bolt with the post wasn’t included.
Also, are these torque to yield bolts, or can I adjust and retorque if needed? I know the tranny mount bolts are torque to yield.
Also, are these torque to yield bolts, or can I adjust and retorque if needed? I know the tranny mount bolts are torque to yield.
Hoon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Rhode Island
You should have received four bolts, and they are not torque to yield
SugarMouth
Drag Race Newbie
- Location
- Nevada
Like Hoon said 4 on the engine mount. The arm reuses the factory bolt. The hardware from BFI is not stretch to yield.
On the tranny mount no bolts come and you should buy all new bolts, yes stretch to yield.
Twist1
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Breaking Mustang Hearts
Basically, imagine taking the trans mount when it's off the car and stretching it all the way to one side. That's how mine was after some miles. Pre loaded towards the firewall which caused some weird noises and a thudding sound when I free revved. VW built in an alignment circle (which no one online has mentioned). They're smart to do that. Basically the mount should be in the middle of itself, not stretched or askew, and then the trans should be aligned with that circle exactly in the middle both left to right and up to down.
I'd be willing to bet they even have a tool that is like a rod that sirs down in that hole and shows the precise alignment as it sticks out.
I'd be willing to bet they even have a tool that is like a rod that sirs down in that hole and shows the precise alignment as it sticks out.
Here’s the other thing that was a little confusing to me on this simple install...
The engine mount arm would barely clear the bolt. Didn’t think the fender mount holes had that much room for adjustment. But if I can adjust the thing to center the arm, I’m going to be hanging off the fender on the mount.
The engine mount arm would barely clear the bolt. Didn’t think the fender mount holes had that much room for adjustment. But if I can adjust the thing to center the arm, I’m going to be hanging off the fender on the mount.
WhyNotZoidberg?
Ready to race!
- Location
- Chi-Town
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI, 2015 TDI
The fender mounting arm is not present on all aftermarket mounts, so IMHO it's likely only needed for the soft OEM mounts.
You should probably make sure the mount is properly aligned on the bottom (your 2nd pic), and worry less about the arm mounting point.
You should probably make sure the mount is properly aligned on the bottom (your 2nd pic), and worry less about the arm mounting point.
Last edited:
I installed the ECS engine mount yesterday and finally got to take it for a test drive this morning. I was already running the BFI stage 2 transmission mount along with the APR dogbone insert. If anything adding the ECS mount has helped with vibration and harshness. Before the engine mount the car had a slight vibration at idle and a bit more with AC on at idle. That seems to be gone now.
But...the car is way louder now. I think GTI Jake said it's like a soundaktor on steroids which is definitely accurate. Not sure how I'll like it long term, may end up switching to the BFI stage 1 if it starts to bother me.
But...the car is way louder now. I think GTI Jake said it's like a soundaktor on steroids which is definitely accurate. Not sure how I'll like it long term, may end up switching to the BFI stage 1 if it starts to bother me.
Twist1
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Breaking Mustang Hearts
BFI stage one is just as loud.
I hate to say this.. but as all of the options have been getting out there over the last two years, it seems the oem design is the best for this car. The CTS and 034 ones fill in the void and stiffen up the rubber but keep the 360 degree rotational design that absorbs noise . Not only at idle, but through the rev range as well. 3-4k my car becomes Armageddon, with the vibrations quite intense with the magnaflow cb. I will probably be replacing my BFI with 034, which ironically the guy before who sold me the bfi did as well.
Hoon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Rhode Island
Disagree.
BFI S1 sounds like stock, S2 had unpleasant mechanical noise constantly transmitted into the cabin.
Really like the S1 mount, hated the S2. S1 has WAY less NVH than S2.
Twist1
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Breaking Mustang Hearts
It's only the 3-4krpm range that gets me. It's completely bearable but most just talk about idle nvh, where as mine is worst while wot
Hoon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Rhode Island
Trans noise or engine?
I have the S2 trans mount and S1 engine mount, don't really notice much NVH at all.
The S2 motor mount was awful IMO.
Sandman GTI
Drag Race Newbie
- Location
- Tennessee USA
Reason for mixing mount manufacturers?
No reason really, I bought the bfi stage 2 trans insert used and got the engine mount listed as scratch and dent for $150 shipped from ECS.