MAGIC/MAJESTY (eBay) 16.4 liter Intercooler

TwoCans said:

Lots of little lessons learned for me, not the least of which is to buy more power tools.

I did get out and do some pulls and it performed great--which is a big consolation after the stress of getting it installed.

Here's the first pull @60f ambient, after driving like a grandma while the oil heated up:
https://datazap.me/u/twocans/log-1520834767?log=1&data=1-4-6&solo=4

I am curious--does anyone have an answer why IATs creep up while cruising?

Anyways, the next couple of pulls went better--IATs dropped to 10-12 above ambient and stayed there (ambient still @60f):
https://datazap.me/u/twocans/log-1520834767?log=0&data=1-4-6&solo=4
https://datazap.me/u/twocans/log-1520834767?log=2&data=1-4-6&solo=4

For comparison, here's my run with the stock IC at the drag strip @70f ambient, where IATs eventually climb to 64 degrees above:
https://datazap.me/u/twocans/january-import-face?log=0&data=1-4-6&solo=4

Definitely excited to see how it performs at the next test and tune.

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MadMen said:

Honestly, these logs are certainly much better than stock - but they don't compare to the "expensive" intercoolers.

So while these look like nice inexpensive options, I really can't see them compared to an IE or APR. There is a difference it appears.

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Oldschoolmk7 said:

Omg. Complaining about a $300 IC that keeps iats around 11-12 degrees over ambient at wot consistently even in 80 degree temps?? That is pretty fucking good. Show me stock IC log that does that? That is better than some of brand name stuff! Look up cts stock location and Uni logs. 20-25 degrees over. I think Hoon’s recent log went to 61 degrees from a 38 degree ambient...?

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AlienSP said:

I had the same problem on the driver’s side clearance. The yellow clip wouldn’t snap in securely. Added 4hrs. If the IC fit the first time, I could do this in 3 hrs.
Notes:
1. Order the spare yellow clips; they are the same as the OEM form factor.
2. Take images and place blue painters tape on the bumper at the edges of the headlights for future alignment of bumper and sanity check. You won’t have to ask yourself “did it look that way before?”.
3. When you get to the crash bar, scribe around all 6 bolts for reinstallation.
4. New IC hardware uses four cap/buttonhead M5x10mm (.8) on the top-AC side, whereas the blind holes are 10mm in depth. The upper washers will be #10. I made brackets from ½” x 1/16” thick aluminum stock. Bracket length 45mm with 35mm hole spacing. If making brackets and using #10 washers, use M5x12mm. On the bottom, use two M6x10mm (1.0) cap screws.
5. You may need to file bottom slots for the radiator to have some clearance from the IC.
6. I had to file (front side) where the plastic clips from the radiator fit into the IC. A little material from the front makes it snap right in.
7. The magic IC does not have slots on the bottom of the side pegs, before transfer/installation of yellow clips, file the lower tab off from inside the yellow clip. There is still a groove/ tab at the top.
8. The Chinese yellow clips are not ultrasonically welded on both sides at the rubber-plastic interface. It actually allows more side-to-side play which may be good for installation purposes.
9. The passenger side yellow clip snapped right in; the drivers side had clearance issues and would not go in. It may be the long support peg mentioned by others. I eventually made it clip on one tab, but broke the other. As a bailout, the yellow clip has a hole on the front that is perfect for tapping to M6 and the frame has a natural through-hole. I put a M6x15mm in there for security and it tightened everything up.
10. A larger IC takes more space and moves the radiator closer to the engine. To get a ¼” more clearance between the two, bring the bottom of the IC frame forward ¼” on the crash bar mounting bolts (bottom 2 of 4 that face to the sides of car). Leave the top two in the original scribed position.
11. Check your hood latch alignment on the hood if it’s a little sticky.

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Diggs24 said:

The IE definitely doesn't get within 3 of ambient on a warm engine. Maybe if I started it cold on a cold day and went WOT down my street like my idiot neighbor. Also doesn't rise 10 degrees either but a lot of variables impact that.

49F ambient

https://datazap.me/u/diggs24/log-1520647033?log=0&data=1-4-6-19

Magic IC looks good to me.

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MadMen said:

Honestly, these logs are certainly much better than stock - but they don't compare to the "expensive" intercoolers. At 70 degrees ambient, the other intercoolers almost get down to within 3 or 4 degrees of ambient, then climb to about 10 over during a longer pull. Your logs are very short, and let off at 5500 rpm but still never get within 10 degrees of ambient temps (60).

for comparison - APR log at 73 degrees ambient - https://datazap.me/u/fjames/log-1487806422?log=1&data=6-10-12&trim=8&tmin=4.00&tmax=4.50

So while these look like nice inexpensive options, I really can't see them compared to an IE or APR. There is a difference it appears.

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Oldschoolmk7 said:

It is ultimately all about the value proposition people. On most car forums we all measure are manhood by how fast our cars are. I would guess 99.9% of us (driving a vw) are not independently wealthy. I’m pretty sure by now we have shown the ebay dp’s and IC are a very viable option. Data backs that up.

Let’s take two people we will call Barry and Eric. And for the sake of argument they both have exactly $3000 to spend on mods. The GTI’s are same make, model, options, and even color. Barry really wants the APR stickers on his car so he goes APR only for all his mods. Three grand later Barry has (4 large stickers) a cast dp, intercooler, and bench flash tuning for his ride. Eric has purchased some ebay parts, cobb AP w/ custom tune, and a used is38 with his money. Which car is faster? Looks like Eric’s dong is going to take the win... .

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