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Free 6MT mod (part deux): clutch pedal spring removal

PLF8593

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Philly
Car(s)
19 Alltrack 6MT
Just did this mod, and tbh i can tell there's a "difference," but i can't actually pin down exactly what that difference is. I have already done the ECS block and the 034 insert.

Regardless of my experience with the mod, i think OP should update the main post to reflect the fact that absolutely no tools are necessary for this, despite maybe something to pull the hook of the spring off with.
 

2015WhiteGTI

Go Kart Champion
Had this done with a new Sachs SRE clutch and LOVE the organic feel of the clutch when pulling out. It feels so much more natural to me. I don't feel like I HAVE to ride the clutch to pull out smoothly.

I can basically rev the engine just above idle and as I let the clutch out I can feed in revs slowly and smoothly and just let the clutch out without hesitation. VERY little riding of the clutch, which is where the vast majority of wear comes from.

TBH: I can't see why everyone wouldn't do this. It is so much better. LOVE it!
 

BravoMike

Go Kart Champion
Location
Indianapolis
i think OP should update the main post to reflect the fact that absolutely no tools are necessary for this, despite maybe something to pull the hook of the spring off with.

You serious or is this a joke? :confused: The T20 torx isn't necessary but I thought removing the panel would give people a better view of the area. The needle nose pliers are exactly what you are saying is needed. I suppose you could use your fingers, but I think the pliers are better to use to get a sure grip on the spring. The third tool (opposable thumbs) was a joke, and I even said that was optional!

So three tools mentioned, one being a tool you agree is "maybe" needed, one isn't really required, and the other was a joke.

I think I'll leave the OP how it is.
 
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BravoMike

Go Kart Champion
Location
Indianapolis
Update on my thoughts after driving daily without the spring for a little over a week; loving it so far! That vagueness the clutch pedal used to have is completely gone and the pedal just follows what the foot does. Since I've gotten accustomed to how it feels, I can make smoother shifts and make them faster. I no longer feel the need to slip the clutch to make a smooth shift. My heel toeing is now consistently smooth.

Between this spring removed and the ECS bleeder block (or even the freebie mod) the clutch engagement feels like other manual transmission cars that I've driven.
 

Tucker3381

Ready to race!
Location
WI
I have the CTS Short shift, CTS bracket bushings, the ECS Tuning Bleeder Block (delay valve delete), BFI mount insert, a Southbend Stage 3 daily clutch, and now with removing this spring, the shifts are 100% perfect and inline with how I want clutching and shifting to feel.
 

PLF8593

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Philly
Car(s)
19 Alltrack 6MT
I have the CTS Short shift, CTS bracket bushings, the ECS Tuning Bleeder Block (delay valve delete), BFI mount insert, a Southbend Stage 3 daily clutch, and now with removing this spring, the shifts are 100% perfect and inline with how I want clutching and shifting to feel.



Its pretty fucked up that this many things need to be done for people to actually like their MTs. This all prolly cost you more than a DSG + TCU tune would've. Obviously that's less "engaging," but as an MT owner who's experiencing cognitive dissonance, this just adds more fuel to my fire
 

Tucker3381

Ready to race!
Location
WI
Its pretty fucked up that this many things need to be done for people to actually like their MTs. This all prolly cost you more than a DSG + TCU tune would've. Obviously that's less "engaging," but as an MT owner who's experiencing cognitive dissonance, this just adds more fuel to my fire

The clutch wasn't needed for the feel, obviously, I just threw it in there because people associate clutch upgrades with different pedal feel. Yes, it's heavy, but the shifts are smooth and clean with all the other changes involved. Prior to a couple of the upgrades, I felt as if the throws were just a touch too long and felt notchy.

I've yet to install the 034 cable bushings that I have, but can't imagine anything getting worse.

I understand where you're coming from though. My Mk5 had a MT, and it was one of the smoothest and nicest feeling MT's I've driven since the mechanical clutch days. My Mk6 was DSG though, which was fine until I let APR tune the DSG. Going forward, coupled with the thrust bearing failure in my mk7, I'll strongly consider a DSG again because of how much feedback is lost with all these add-ons introduced to the MT system (delay valves, springs, who knows what else).
 

KawaZukiVdub

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Latveria
Its pretty fucked up that this many things need to be done for people to actually like their MTs. This all prolly cost you more than a DSG + TCU tune would've. Obviously that's less "engaging," but as an MT owner who's experiencing cognitive dissonance, this just adds more fuel to my fire

Ehh, besides the ECS block (or the free bleeder delete) and clutch pedal spring delete, it's not like the other stuff you listed is stuff that a MT owner especially on a ethiusiast forum wouldn't have done to their car anyways. And no I don't think doing that stuff is more expensive than a DSG + TCU tune..

This is everything I got:
APR shifter bracket: 149.95
Dieselgeek Sigma 6 shifter: 189.00 (Sale price, usual price is 199.99)
Free bleeder block mod
free clutch pedal spring delete

Total price? 338.95 not including shipping. Lets add the ECS bleeder block: 119.95

Total price then is 458.90 again not including shipping.

APR DSG tune: 699.99 not including "labor" fees
Unitronic: 600 (Stg1) not including "labor" fees. Stg 2 is 700

I think Eurodynes is the cheapest DSG TCU upgrade at 375 not including "labor" fees; add 200 w/the power tap tool if you do it yourself.
 

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
You also need to factor in how much a decent clutch is w/ labor as you do have to upgrade the clutch with any tune... It does add up. That being said... I would likely still get a manual again. :)
 

KawaZukiVdub

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Latveria
You also need to factor in how much a decent clutch is w/ labor as you do have to upgrade the clutch with any tune... It does add up. That being said... I would likely still get a manual again. :)

True, and I know I'll always get a manual as long as I'm able to.

OT: but how is the ED 1S38 tune Quebster? Do you have any impressions anywhere I can read? I think I may go IS38 in the future.
 

Quebster

Autocross Newbie
Location
Dallas, Tx
OT: but how is the ED 1S38 tune Quebster? Do you have any impressions anywhere I can read? I think I may go IS38 in the future.

I don't have too much to say about it yet. I installed the clutch (and pretty much everything else) at the same time pretty recently and I have been breaking the clutch in and driving like a granny, and am just about ready to start ripping on it, so I haven't written any "reviews" or anything.

All I will say is that it feels very, very strong so far. You know that "holy shit" feeling you get from stage 2 from ripping it around 30MPH? Well, now you get that same feeling, but when you rip it from around 80MPH too. It's pretty amazing, and that's the main difference between IS20 and IS38: More room up top where the IS20 runs out of breath.

I haven't noticed a significant difference in turbo lag or a lack of pep like I've seen some say. I did upgrade Intercooler and all airways though, so it's possible that minimized it.

I'll have to write a build thread or a "review" post at some point. The ED IS38 tune for 2015's is very strong. For some reason, he absolutely nurfed the 2016 IS38 tunes. I think he's messing around with doing less boost and better engine timing, similar to Unitronic's tune, but maybe nurfed the 2016 IS38 too much. You can always dig around in the "Eurodyne Updates" thread on here to see what's going on!

Anyway, sorry to OP for OT post :D
 

LeGti

Ready to race!
Location
France
Link to first free 6mt mod thread: Free MT6 wonder mod: OEM bleeder delay removal

This is a mod that I have read about on the "other" forum and I think I've seen it mentioned on this forum once. I did not come up with this mod and am not taking credit for it. I think it is worthy of its own thread to get the attention that I feel this easy mod deserves.

What:
Clutch pedal spring removal. There is a spring attached to the top left side of the clutch pedal that assists in pulling the clutch back towards the firewall. Removing this spring makes the clutch pedal feel more firm.

Why: By having the spring make it easier to move the clutch pedal towards the firewall, it makes clutch engagement feel weak and vague. I have also noticed when shifting fast, especially at higher RPMs, the clutch pedal felt like it was barely keeping up with my foot moving back out. Removing this spring makes the feel of the clutch engagement more precise and the clutch pedal never feels like it lags behind anymore.

How:
First I want to point out that this is an incredibly easy mod to do and is just as easy to reverse. I highly recommend anyone who has a 6MT to at least give it a try.

Tools needed;
1. T20 Torx
2. Needle nose pliers
3. Opposable thumbs (optional)

Steps;
1. Engage Parking Brake.
2. Unscrew T20 size torx screw from panel to left of clutch pedal that is near OBDII port. Pull panel forward to remove. This step gives clear view and easier access to spring.
3. Locate clutch pedal spring by looking on the top left side of pedal. The spring should be easily visible when looking somewhat upwards. (There is a larger spring that is enclosed that you push against. This spring is harder to see unless you really get under the dash. It is NOT this spring.)
4. Push clutch pedal in with one hand to remove tension off of spring. With other hand use needle nose pliers to remove spring.
5. Use opposable thumbs where necessary.

Enjoy! :D


Great stuff Bravo Mike!! Always wondered what kept the pedal from returning quickly during fast shifts. Will do the mod & report; thanks!!!!
 

surfstar

Ready to race!
Location
Cali
There's a simple answer to this.

1. The bleeder block is specifically designed to prevent driveline shock from hard-quick shifting. This is not needed in a less powerful Golf.

2. The clutch assist spring is needed with a stiff clutch. The GTI has a uprated pressure plate I.E. it's physically going to be stiffer, therefore VW decided it needed an assist spring.

I haven't looked for the spring, yet, but I did find and remove my CDV (clutch delay valve) in my "less powerful" Sportwagen :D

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?p=310059#post310059


Interesting: I just checked under my pedal and this spring isn't there (Just like with the bleeder valve delete). I found the mounting points but no spring. I always thought that my clutch felt WAY better than the GTI's clutch, and I guess this is just another reason why. It's weird that so many "comfort/assist" items exist for the GTI's clutch but not for the base golf's (At least mine, maybe I got lucky).

Look again - I found a pulled that damn CDV - best mod!
 
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njavier03

Ready to race!
Location
NOVA
i think i stumbled upon gold here. might not even wait until i get home and do this in the parking lot after work lol
 
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