amullo
Ready to race!
- Location
- Stockholm, Sweden
I havent seen any thread on the subject, so I figure Ill start one.
What do you know about wintertires?
When do you need them?
What types are there?
To start with, here are the basics.
1. The tire needs to be marked with the "snowflake inside a mountain" - This indicated that the rubbercompund doesnt stiffen at low temperatures.
2. A winter tire is a tire matrked with M+S on the sidewall - The M+S mark stands for "Mud and Snow". The thread on the tire is course to offer better grip in snow and mud conditions.
3. P for passenger, L for light duty vehicle.
4. Narrow tires offer better grip - 195 is optimum for the Golf Mk7. The reason is that a wider tire will float (aquaplane) on both water, snowslush and snow. It will also lessen the surface weight per square inch. You want a high number to cut through to a solid surface under the loose snow, slush or water.
5. Higher sidewalls give better grip - The tire needs to be able to flex to let the rubber follow the ground. It will also give a better "feel" and communicate earlier when the tire is slipping or about to slip.
6/7 Rims - Alloys are much more common then before for wintertires and this is down to driver choice, but steel rims offer better value for money, but lets face it.. Alloys look great! The Dezent RE I´ve chosen for our car is a "winter" alloy rim that is designed to not pick up snow and has extra layers of paint to prevent chipping from gravel.
8 Load index (numbered) - To coincide with VWs recommendations
9. Speed classification indicates how fast the tire is approved for - To coincide with VW´s recommendations
Lets take our car.
A 2.0 TDI GT that came from the factory on 17" rims on summer tires. Using the stock size of 225/45-17 for wintertires would, givven the rules above, be wrong.
We went with a 195/65-15 combination, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2 friction tires and Dezent RE 15" rims.
OK, so then its time to think about what kind of wintertire you need. There are roughly three diffrent types.
1. Studded winter M+S tires with the snowflake mark.
- Generally, these tires are the best for true winterroads and roads often covered in ice, but local laws may prevent their use. The offer unsurpased grip on ice and ice/snow combinations. They offer medium grip in the wet and on dry roads.
EG: Nokian Hakkapelitta 8, Michelin X-ice North
Conditions like these
2. Nordic friction M+S tires with the snowflake mark.
- These tires are made for nordic conditions with snow and ice, but not much water. They excel (like their studded cousin) at winterroads that are white with snow or glazed with ice. Grip on dry and wet roads are generally at medium levels.
EG: Nokian Hakkapelitta R, Michelin X-ice, Continental VikingContact5
Conditins like these
3. Continental friction or "warm winter" M+S tires with the snowflake mark.
-These tires are made for winters that are wet and slush, but you still need to go north sometimes. They offer alot more grip then summertires in the wet, snow and ice, but less grip on snow and ice then the above tires. The perfect choice for drivers who generally see snow at the side of the road, but not on it. Think New Jersey or Southern England, Not Maine, Canada or Northen Scotland.
Something like this
Then there is the 4:th option.
Friction och M+S tires without the snowflake. Also called "year around" or similar to give them the appearance of being able to cope with all conditions, summer to winter.
These tires are generally pretty bad at everything. They offer low to medium grip in all situations. To be avoided.
Unless you want this
- That covers the basics, but Im sure Ive forgotten some stuff that is obvious to me.. Ive been driving on winterroads in Sweden since I was 17, so some stuff I just take for granted.
EDIT!!
A note to those who have wintertires or buy them new.
Remember to put them on BEFORE you need them. Summer storage will harden the outer surface of the rubber slightly and tire manufacturers all recommend that you drive your wintertires for atleast 500 kilometers/300 miles on non-winter roads (EG: before the snow comes down) to loosen the rubber up again. That way the rubber will be pliable and soft for when the firts blizzard hits. (this is actually true of summer tires aswell.. All new tires need breaking in unless brand spanking new from the factory. Used tires need a "reconditioning" to bring new rubber to the surface)
For special note to owners buying studded tires new
Studded tires need their studs to be fully seated before offering maximum grip. Its recommended that you take the first 500km/300 miles on your studded tires carefully and not exceed a speed of 110kph/65 mph to allow the studs to seat fully in your tires. Remember that exceeding 130kph/80MPH may cause the studs to rip from the tire because of the centrifigual force.
What do you know about wintertires?
When do you need them?
What types are there?
To start with, here are the basics.
1. The tire needs to be marked with the "snowflake inside a mountain" - This indicated that the rubbercompund doesnt stiffen at low temperatures.
2. A winter tire is a tire matrked with M+S on the sidewall - The M+S mark stands for "Mud and Snow". The thread on the tire is course to offer better grip in snow and mud conditions.
3. P for passenger, L for light duty vehicle.
4. Narrow tires offer better grip - 195 is optimum for the Golf Mk7. The reason is that a wider tire will float (aquaplane) on both water, snowslush and snow. It will also lessen the surface weight per square inch. You want a high number to cut through to a solid surface under the loose snow, slush or water.
5. Higher sidewalls give better grip - The tire needs to be able to flex to let the rubber follow the ground. It will also give a better "feel" and communicate earlier when the tire is slipping or about to slip.
6/7 Rims - Alloys are much more common then before for wintertires and this is down to driver choice, but steel rims offer better value for money, but lets face it.. Alloys look great! The Dezent RE I´ve chosen for our car is a "winter" alloy rim that is designed to not pick up snow and has extra layers of paint to prevent chipping from gravel.
8 Load index (numbered) - To coincide with VWs recommendations
9. Speed classification indicates how fast the tire is approved for - To coincide with VW´s recommendations
Lets take our car.
A 2.0 TDI GT that came from the factory on 17" rims on summer tires. Using the stock size of 225/45-17 for wintertires would, givven the rules above, be wrong.
We went with a 195/65-15 combination, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2 friction tires and Dezent RE 15" rims.
OK, so then its time to think about what kind of wintertire you need. There are roughly three diffrent types.
1. Studded winter M+S tires with the snowflake mark.
- Generally, these tires are the best for true winterroads and roads often covered in ice, but local laws may prevent their use. The offer unsurpased grip on ice and ice/snow combinations. They offer medium grip in the wet and on dry roads.
EG: Nokian Hakkapelitta 8, Michelin X-ice North
Conditions like these
2. Nordic friction M+S tires with the snowflake mark.
- These tires are made for nordic conditions with snow and ice, but not much water. They excel (like their studded cousin) at winterroads that are white with snow or glazed with ice. Grip on dry and wet roads are generally at medium levels.
EG: Nokian Hakkapelitta R, Michelin X-ice, Continental VikingContact5
Conditins like these
3. Continental friction or "warm winter" M+S tires with the snowflake mark.
-These tires are made for winters that are wet and slush, but you still need to go north sometimes. They offer alot more grip then summertires in the wet, snow and ice, but less grip on snow and ice then the above tires. The perfect choice for drivers who generally see snow at the side of the road, but not on it. Think New Jersey or Southern England, Not Maine, Canada or Northen Scotland.
Something like this
Then there is the 4:th option.
Friction och M+S tires without the snowflake. Also called "year around" or similar to give them the appearance of being able to cope with all conditions, summer to winter.
These tires are generally pretty bad at everything. They offer low to medium grip in all situations. To be avoided.
Unless you want this
- That covers the basics, but Im sure Ive forgotten some stuff that is obvious to me.. Ive been driving on winterroads in Sweden since I was 17, so some stuff I just take for granted.
EDIT!!
A note to those who have wintertires or buy them new.
Remember to put them on BEFORE you need them. Summer storage will harden the outer surface of the rubber slightly and tire manufacturers all recommend that you drive your wintertires for atleast 500 kilometers/300 miles on non-winter roads (EG: before the snow comes down) to loosen the rubber up again. That way the rubber will be pliable and soft for when the firts blizzard hits. (this is actually true of summer tires aswell.. All new tires need breaking in unless brand spanking new from the factory. Used tires need a "reconditioning" to bring new rubber to the surface)
For special note to owners buying studded tires new
Studded tires need their studs to be fully seated before offering maximum grip. Its recommended that you take the first 500km/300 miles on your studded tires carefully and not exceed a speed of 110kph/65 mph to allow the studs to seat fully in your tires. Remember that exceeding 130kph/80MPH may cause the studs to rip from the tire because of the centrifigual force.
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