Which coil overs are best for my situation

[up4speed]

I would say the toe setting would affect the stability more vs caster. Haven't seen anybody running the camster plate and posted up reviews on it so I didn't want to chance it having any issues with installation fitments. I'll leave it up to the more knowledgeable track guys to chime in if you should get more caster or not.

No need to modify the strut tower since the shocks are inverted so the adjuster is on the bottom, and the camber plate is fixed.

Ok, great thanks! Now I just have to figure out which camber plates?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-034motorsport-parts/dynamic-camber-mounts-pair/034-601-1013~034/ Camber only

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-034motorsport-parts/dynamic-camster-mounts-pair/034-601-1023~034/ Camber and Caster

 

[tigeo]

If I install the deadset kit when I install the coil overs, will that automatically center the sub frame and create equal camber left and right?
I can install everything, then get the car aligned properly when I'm done.

It should help. My side to side numbers are only off 0.1 deg so 2.1 and 2.0 for camber with the DS kit. The issue some will say is that it locks the SF in but then you can't shift/manipulate it to even things out if it is off so my car case in point...if 0.1 deg bothers someone. I only did it b/c my subframe was out getting a FSB installed when I had my LCAs done. Some have said that it aids in reinstalling it to more easily get it lined up but I have no experience there as I paid a shop to do this work. Somewhat of a "why not while your'e there" thing.

 

[tigeo]

Thanks, I will also get the Powergrid end links.
Do you think it's better to add the plates that also increase caster by 1, to increase stability at higher speeds? Or is it better to leave stock caster?
Also, just to confirm, with the Ohlins, and 034 plates, there is absolutely no modification to the car strut towers, etc. Right?

Do the Camster mounts. Caster is a good thing here. There is a user here that used the 034 fixed Camster mounts on his wagon for track use. Nice thing is with the top mounts it pushes the strut back so you don't have any clearance issues with the wheels vs. LCAs (I have those) that give caster that push the f. wheel forward and can cause some interference if you are really low or have really large tire/wheel combo.

 

[tigeo]

I would say the toe setting would affect the stability more vs caster. Haven't seen anybody running the camster plate and posted up reviews on it so I didn't want to chance it having any issues with installation fitments. I'll leave it up to the more knowledgeable track guys to chime in if you should get more caster or not.

No need to modify the strut tower since the shocks are inverted so the adjuster is on the bottom, and the camber plate is fixed.

See response above. Caster is a good thing.

 

[tigeo]

@Spade w/r to 034 Camster mounts.

 

[tigeo]

One other comment re fixed camber/camster plates. IF you use B16s, they are not meant to run on these and say as much in their instructions. There have been more than one I've seen with snapped off top studs running non-OE style top mounts. I'd think the Eurosport would be ok with such a slight camber but just throwing that out there. Not sure of the track record on the more aggressive 034 plates.

 

[DerHase]

Go straight for the Camster plates. It will aid in dialing out a bit of the bump steer from the factory/that results from any kind of lowering or adding camber.

I have the regular 034 camber plates (Camsters came out like 3 weeks after I purchased... of course) and will likely be pulling them off to switch to the Camster ones at some point this year.

 

[up4speed]

Go straight for the Camster plates. It will aid in dialing out a bit of the bump steer from the factory/that results from any kind of lowering or adding camber.

I have the regular 034 camber plates (Camsters came out like 3 weeks after I purchased... of course) and will likely be pulling them off to switch to the Camster ones at some point this year.

Thank you. It sounds like the camsters are the way to go if I do the Ohlins.
I will probably decide soon. I will update here with my final decision, as well as driving results after the install.

One thing that gave me pause, is that my transmission is doing funny things and I don’t want to put money into the car unless it’s mechanically perfect.
I have that issue when starting from a start. it lurches / bucks as I release the brake when it starts to creep. It happens in drive and reverse randomly. I know several others have the same issue, and apparently no solution at this point (that I know of). The weird part is that it did it when it was very new, before any mods. It just seems to happen way more often now.

 

[tigeo]

Thank you. It sounds like the camsters are the way to go if I do the Ohlins.
I will probably decide soon. I will update here with my final decision, as well as driving results after the install.

One thing that gave me pause, is that my transmission is doing funny things and I don’t want to put money into the car unless it’s mechanically perfect.
I have that issue when starting from a start. it lurches / bucks as I release the brake when it starts to creep. It happens in drive and reverse randomly. I know several others have the same issue, and apparently no solution at this point (that I know of). The weird part is that it did it when it was very new, before any mods. It just seems to happen way more often now.

If you slowly release the brake, what happens? Have you done a reset of the DSG basic settings?

 

[geokilla]

Thank you. It sounds like the camsters are the way to go if I do the Ohlins.
I will probably decide soon. I will update here with my final decision, as well as driving results after the install.

One thing that gave me pause, is that my transmission is doing funny things and I don’t want to put money into the car unless it’s mechanically perfect.
I have that issue when starting from a start. it lurches / bucks as I release the brake when it starts to creep. It happens in drive and reverse randomly. I know several others have the same issue, and apparently no solution at this point (that I know of). The weird part is that it did it when it was very new, before any mods. It just seems to happen way more often now.

I've been living with this issue since day 1. I think it's just the nature of our 6 speed DSG.

 

[up4speed]

If you slowly release the brake, what happens? Have you done a reset of the DSG basic settings?

It depends. If I slowly release, sometimes it helps, other times it bucks slower, or maybe a little less.
I have reset the basic settings several times I. The past 6 years. The first time I did that, it worked perfectly for a bout a year in between each reset (that’s why I ignored it).
The last 2 times I reset it, it lasted a week at most before it started doing it again.
Now it seems worse. It used to do a single buck every time. Now it bucked 2 or 3 times a few times! It feels like someone who doesn’t know how to drive a manual transmission. lol.

 

[tigeo]

It depends. If I slowly release, sometimes it helps, other times it bucks slower, or maybe a little less.
I have reset the basic settings several times I. The past 6 years. The first time I did that, it worked perfectly for a bout a year in between each reset (that’s why I ignored it).
The last 2 times I reset it, it lasted a week at most before it started doing it again.
Now it seems worse. It used to do a single buck every time. Now it bucked 2 or 3 times a few times! It feels like someone who doesn’t know how to drive a manual transmission. lol.

Well....since it mechanically IS a manual transmission, you get some weird behavior sometimes. Could just be that something is done/on the way out/needs repair. Typically mechatronic units or flywheel/clutch pack. There are several things you can reset, clutch point, syncros, etc. I'd try to reset anything you can.

 

[19birel]

I think you'll be surprised at what the car can do with a solid suspension setup. I had been going in circles on suspension setup for a while, then I got to ride in a fellow member's car at Pitt Race with an instructor behind the wheel. The car had Koni Yellows, Golf R springs, camber plates, sway bars and it felt pretty darn good.

That influenced my current setup of Koni Special Actives, Eibach springs, 034 Camster plates, and ECS rear strut mounts. Haven't had the chance to test on track yet, but on the street I've been thoroughly impressed

If you get Ohlins and camster plates, and have it corner balanced nicely, I don't think you'll have any regrets

 

[up4speed]

Well....since it mechanically IS a manual transmission, you get some weird behavior sometimes. Could just be that something is done/on the way out/needs repair. Typically mechatronic units or flywheel/clutch pack. There are several things you can reset, clutch point, syncros, etc. I'd try to reset anything you can.

Have you ever done those resets? Are they easy, I don’t want to screw something up. I’m thinking that the apps on OBD11 should be self working, and not allow a problem. But I don’t like messing with that type of stuff unless I get instruction on it. But at this point, I don’t have much to lose, do I? Lol

 

[up4speed]

Well....since it mechanically IS a manual transmission, you get some weird behavior sometimes. Could just be that something is done/on the way out/needs repair. Typically mechatronic units or flywheel/clutch pack. There are several things you can reset, clutch point, syncros, etc. I'd try to reset anything you can.

Well....since it mechanically IS a manual transmission, you get some weird behavior sometimes. Could just be that something is done/on the way out/needs repair. Typically mechatronic units or flywheel/clutch pack. There are several things you can reset, clutch point, syncros, etc. I'd try to reset anything you can.

I just looked at the OBD11 screen, there are two options, the basic setting, that I have done seven times in the past, and the “ calibration of synchro points”.
I never did that one, but guess I can try that one now. Do you know if it’s OK to do one without the other? Or am I supposed to do one, then the other?
I’m thinking that maybe I should also try the dynamic start assistant, and set it too “early”, to see if that maybe helps. I’m not sure if that eliminates the creep function, so when I let go of the brake, it won’t move until I give the car throttle. If so, that will probably fix the problem. I like it better that way anyway. I’m used to it because my other double clutch transmission cars don’t creep when I let go of the brake. They drive more like manual transmissions, which I prefer.