Which coil overs are best for my situation

[up4speed]

Ohlins will perform the best by far. And agreed you're going to be disappointed with only -.8 of camber. -2.5 is the sweet spot

Get real camber plates if you're investing in performance coilovers.

I'm leaning towards the Ohlins at this point. I was wondering if someone had used one of the others, then upgraded to Ohlins. I would love to hear a direct comparison.
I was afraid to do camber plates because I didn't want too much NVH when I'm using the car for daily duties.
Speaking of camber plates...Can those be installed and adjusted after they are installed on the car? It appears that they get installed under the shock strut tower, so how would those hex bolts be accessed in order to adjust?

 

[up4speed]

What is your camber at now? I'm at -2.8° now with the eurosport kit, and offset LCA bushings.

Can the non DCC B16's be rebuilt? I have B16 DCC kit, and they cannot be rebuilt. When it's time for replacement I will be switching to the Ohlins, and removing the DCC.

However I will say my B16's are great for my need. Their lowering limit is really not that low, but I mainly autocross not track. But I've been happy with their performance including daily driving.

Right now, I have factory struts with factory Camber (non adjustable). I just looked at the printout from the last alignment and the left front was -1.14 and the right front was -0.39. Both rears were -1.32.
Not sure how the fronts can be different when it's a fixed nonadjustable camber, and the car was never in an accident, so I'm confused.

 

[up4speed]

Of those, Ohlins. Easily. They're reasonably-priced for aluminum-body inverted monotubes. Adjusters are on the bottom so you don't need to fuck up your chassis with notches. It's a single body design, unlike the universal stuff that the cheap TW struts like BC/Fortune use, so you don't compromise shock travel. Anyone can rebuild them vs. sending back to KW or hoping bilstein doesn't send you nerfed shocks that they crimp so they can't be rebuilt.

I would only do eurosport mounts if you've got CSS knuckles or other sources of camber. If you want the edges to last, -2.5 is an ok compromise for daily driving, shoot for -2.8 to -3.0 if you're getting more serious. Camber plates pay for themselves quickly if you're still using Cup2s.

Do you know if I can use the Eurosport mounts along with the ball joints that kick the bottom out a little, or will that cause problems, or too much camber (I'm starting with stock at -1.4 on the left and -0.39 on the right)?
I think the 034 ones are a fixed -1.2, Whereas the Whiteline are adjustable.

034 Ball joints:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/...tm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=334b6bf4d9c9

Whiteline:
https://whitelineperformance.com/pr...uRRLOfkd4HCl2tMWgVtWryS-tQwHsbihoC7yAQAvD_BwE

Please be patient with me, I'm learning all this stuff in the past 2 days

 

[krs]

Do you know if I can use the Eurosport mounts along with the ball joints that kick the bottom out a little, or will that cause problems, or too much camber (I'm starting with stock at -1.4 on the left and -0.39 on the right)?
I think the 034 ones are a fixed -1.2, Whereas the Whiteline are adjustable.

034 Ball joints:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/034motorsport-dynamic-rco-camber-roll-center-adjusting-ball-joints-vw-audi-golf-r-gti-and-more?currency=USD&variant=41348350214337&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=334b6bf4d9c9

Whiteline:
https://whitelineperformance.com/products/kca472-roll-centre-bump-steer-correction-kit?currency=USD&variant=31709251698730&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=c4572ef04fe9&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAzc2tBhA6EiwArv-i6TjPU5-bagQfyJO9FzKFvauRRLOfkd4HCl2tMWgVtWryS-tQwHsbihoC7yAQAvD_BwE

Please be patient with me, I'm learning all this stuff in the past 2 days

You can, but those ball joints are problematic and fail often, or rather wear out sooner than you’d hope.

Offset bushing fail as well, heck everything fails eventually, but in my opinion you’d be better off with offset lca bushings.

I used to live in a climate that was snowy and cold during the winter, and I drove the car daily. I really didn't want to mess with the camber plate mainly due to corrosion concerns.

 

[DerHase]

Do you know if I can use the Eurosport mounts along with the ball joints that kick the bottom out a little, or will that cause problems, or too much camber (I'm starting with stock at -1.4 on the left and -0.39 on the right)?
I think the 034 ones are a fixed -1.2, Whereas the Whiteline are adjustable.

034 Ball joints:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/034motorsport-dynamic-rco-camber-roll-center-adjusting-ball-joints-vw-audi-golf-r-gti-and-more?currency=USD&variant=41348350214337&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=334b6bf4d9c9

Whiteline:
https://whitelineperformance.com/products/kca472-roll-centre-bump-steer-correction-kit?currency=USD&variant=31709251698730&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=c4572ef04fe9&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAzc2tBhA6EiwArv-i6TjPU5-bagQfyJO9FzKFvauRRLOfkd4HCl2tMWgVtWryS-tQwHsbihoC7yAQAvD_BwE

Please be patient with me, I'm learning all this stuff in the past 2 days

I'd hold off on ball joints... I have a set I am putting on for the sake of science (now that the car will be lowered)... but the two problems are:

1. They add bump steer. Lowered 1 inch, with them you get 10mm of toe change from 1.5in bump to 1.5in droop. On a single wheel. 20mm of total toe change.

I literally just got out of the garage running the bump steer sweep on them.

2. I have a set I tried at stock ride height. Absolutely don't recommend that. But since it was a rolling dumpster fire I pulled them off and sat on a shelf for the last 4 months. Pulled them out and the damn boots are already dry rotted. I'm sure they'll say it's due to brake heat (in 500mi and 1 day on track...)... but my stock ball joints with 20 days on track and near 60k miles are just fine.

 

[up4speed]

Thanks guys, I guess those are out of the question. I'm looking for reliable as well.

 

[krs]

Thanks guys, I guess those are out of the question. I'm looking for reliable as well.

If you’re not limited by any class rules, the Eurosport kit and a LCA replacement with offset bushings will probably get you in the -2.5° to -2.8° range, and be decent on the streets as well.

 

[tigeo]

Right now, I have factory struts with factory Camber (non adjustable). I just looked at the printout from the last alignment and the left front was -1.14 and the right front was -0.39. Both rears were -1.32.
Not sure how the fronts can be different when it's a fixed nonadjustable camber, and the car was never in an accident, so I'm confused.

To get the camber squared-up side to side, the subframe will need to be loosened and shifted. You can also likely loosen the top bolts for the strut mounts and get *a tiny bit* of play side to side to maybe help. Mine are about dead even side to side both front/back and I have the Tyrolsport deadset kits f/r. Bottom line - the f. subframe has some wiggle room and that is likely what is going on, most quick toe alignments will not mess with it so find an alignment shop that does a more thorough job and explain what you want them to do, there are 4 main subframe bolts and the four smaller ones on the backside of the r. brakets.

 

[tigeo]

I'm leaning towards the Ohlins at this point. I was wondering if someone had used one of the others, then upgraded to Ohlins. I would love to hear a direct comparison.
I was afraid to do camber plates because I didn't want too much NVH when I'm using the car for daily duties.
Speaking of camber plates...Can those be installed and adjusted after they are installed on the car? It appears that they get installed under the shock strut tower, so how would those hex bolts be accessed in order to adjust?

Many folks enlarge the top strut holes in the unibody to have access for adjustability - basically a hole saw does it. There is a guide you can purchase to help.

 

[tigeo]

When I lower it about 3/4" won't that add a little more negative camber? I was hoping for at least -1.5

It will, it's not much though.

 

[tigeo]

You don’t need any wild setups to go fast. Having compliance and bump travel is indeed helpful. Taking curbs vs not at VIR is roughly 3 seconds alone.

Everyone should really read this a few times...it's true. A set of sport dampers and some springs with some added negative camber (some dynamic from added caster) and sway bars can get you around the track pretty quick. This setup also allows you to take your family to dinner in your car without drama if the dual-use is a requirement. I realize a set of nice coilovers that isn't overly damped/sprung can do the same with more adjustability but the beforementioned is a relatively cheap endeavor and is a reliable/set and forget setup. Chasing lap times with suspension seems to be a fools errand from what I can tell vs. seat time and coaching and derhase's time comparo to a faster car with a much more track-orientated suspension setup is proof.

 

[scrllock]

I'm leaning towards the Ohlins at this point. I was wondering if someone had used one of the others, then upgraded to Ohlins. I would love to hear a direct comparison.
I was afraid to do camber plates because I didn't want too much NVH when I'm using the car for daily duties.
Speaking of camber plates...Can those be installed and adjusted after they are installed on the car? It appears that they get installed under the shock strut tower, so how would those hex bolts be accessed in order to adjust?

The vorshlag plates I'm using with ohlins are adjustable on the car. Camber adjustment is a matter of loosening the 3 nuts on top of the tower, moving it, and re-tightening. They're quieter than the all-metal fortune auto plates but there's no rubber, just a urethane isolator around the bearing.

Like I said, a big advantage of the Ohlins (and B16) is that damper adjustment is on the bottom. There's no need to fuck up your chassis with drilling.

Do you know if I can use the Eurosport mounts along with the ball joints that kick the bottom out a little, or will that cause problems, or too much camber (I'm starting with stock at -1.4 on the left and -0.39 on the right)?
I think the 034 ones are a fixed -1.2, Whereas the Whiteline are adjustable.

034 Ball joints:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/034motorsport-dynamic-rco-camber-roll-center-adjusting-ball-joints-vw-audi-golf-r-gti-and-more?currency=USD&variant=41348350214337&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=334b6bf4d9c9

Whiteline:
https://whitelineperformance.com/products/kca472-roll-centre-bump-steer-correction-kit?currency=USD&variant=31709251698730&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=c4572ef04fe9&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAzc2tBhA6EiwArv-i6TjPU5-bagQfyJO9FzKFvauRRLOfkd4HCl2tMWgVtWryS-tQwHsbihoC7yAQAvD_BwE

Please be patient with me, I'm learning all this stuff in the past 2 days

Do not buy either of these. Awful products. If you want to add camber at the arm, do it with a bushing. You don't need roll center correction with a mild drop and they just introduce more problems.

 

[geokilla]

I don't know as much as the others but my thread might give you some insight on my experience with the changes I made to my suspension. I haven't swapped out the Whiteline parts yet since I'm not driving the car much and it's winter. Will probably do so this spring.

 

[up4speed]

Thanks for all the information, I really appreciate the help from everyone!
At this point, I decided that If I go the coilover route, I will get the Ohlins R&T. And for camber, I will get the 034 Camber plates:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VII--2.0T_Gen3/Search/SiteSearch/0346011013/

Is there anything else I need? If I am correct, I think the bearings are built into the Ohlins assembly, and I won't need to purchase the Factory bearings, right?
Is there anything else I would need for the install, other than a strut spreader? Any bolts that I would have to purchase that are torque to yield and need to be replaced?
Or do I just order the coil overs, the 034 plates, and the strut spreader, and I'm good to go?
Of course once everything is installed, I will have to go to the shop and have a full alignment done. What target settings should I look for (ie. toe in, caster, or any other possible adjustments)?

 

[scrllock]

Thanks for all the information, I really appreciate the help from everyone!
At this point, I decided that If I go the coilover route, I will get the Ohlins R&T. And for camber, I will get the 034 Camber plates:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VII--2.0T_Gen3/Search/SiteSearch/0346011013/

Is there anything else I need? If I am correct, I think the bearings are built into the Ohlins assembly, and I won't need to purchase the Factory bearings, right?
Is there anything else I would need for the install, other than a strut spreader? Any bolts that I would have to purchase that are torque to yield and need to be replaced?
Or do I just order the coil overs, the 034 plates, and the strut spreader, and I'm good to go?
Of course once everything is installed, I will have to go to the shop and have a full alignment done. What target settings should I look for (ie. toe in, caster, or any other possible adjustments)?

034 replaces the stock strut mount, ohlins has its own bearing.

You want a strut spreader, strut to knuckle bolts (and the relevant triple square bit), outer axle bolts (with tools to unbolt and torque them properly, 24mm 12-point and a 40+" bar), and if you feel like following the manual to a T, new endlink and ball joint nuts. There's a bunch of hardware in the rear you should replace when you're taking springs out, but at a minimum, the lower wishbone to knuckle hardware, shock to lower wishbone hardware and the shock mount to chassis bolts. Manual would suggest the endlink hardware as well. Ball joints, endlinks, and shock mounts are also wear items easily replaced during this job, YMMV.

I'm not 100% sure if Ohlins or 034 comes with its own strut mount nut, but you'll want a pass-through socket so you can torque it down properly. I have this one: http://www.metalnerd.com/catalog/product/3a8d93bf5f724fad84fcb3bc5de6dec1 but I'd wait til you have the kit in your hands before ordering a tool, in case you need a different size.

You can also use a 2x4 and zing the strut nut on with an impact, it's your $2800 coilover kit.