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Where to start with suspension

Roald

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
GTI mk 7 2017
When I bought my gti I knew I wanted to do things to make it mine, different.
I generally enjoy tinkering and I have a problem with leaving anything as is.

Then came the possibility to do autocross. And while I'm not great, I'm getting better and that's fine. Ultimately I don't want or even care to be mega competitive. The added pressure or self-expectation will definitely kill my joy for doing autocross.
I just want to do fun things with my car.
In the end I would love to do things like get a DP, tune, suspension, carbon fenders, hood, maybe a wrap, a scroth harness ( I'm tall but I only weigh 160 and I slide around ALOT since I'm not really filling the seat).

Currently I'm in GS, but I think something like a Tune or suspension might be next on the horizon. This is my DD and we do travel but any long trips we rent a car for. I can tolerate some difference in ride, the roads in central ohio aren't awesome, but they aren't too terrible anymore( not like they were 10 years ago, and I don't live in the county anymore). Tbh at 72k miles the stock suspension isn't what she used to be and likely needs replaced/upgraded anyways.
Originally I was looking at the B16s but apparently that's mostly a street setup.
I see a number of folks have a RedShift kit, but what are other go-to kits for auto-x and DD? Ideally I would be keeping it around $1500~ but if there's solid reason to go one way or another I would be interested to hear it.
I'm not trying to slam it. I just want something more geared towards AX that will also be okay for DD.

I do not yet have a fsb or rsb. The only autox mod I have so far is 200tw tires on a second set of wheels.
 
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xXDavidCXx

Autocross Champion
Location
AZ
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE DSG
The problem you are going to run into is, $1500 will not create the compromise you are looking for.

I run Ohlins, and they have a feature that helps lessen hard bumps. You won’t find that in a cheap kit.

Others will say the cheap kits are fine.

Best to ride in various cars with different shocks.
 
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krs

Autocross Champion
Location
Reno, NV
Car(s)
MKVIIS R
I run the Bilstein B16's, albeit in the DCC version. My compromise was I wanted to keep the DCC feature intact, so that limited my options between to brands. Aside from the electronic control, I am not sure what the real difference is between the B16 models.

I am very competitive in local and regional autcross events, but national level events my suspension will not keep up.

So while Ohlins are great (had them in my E46 M3), the best option out there may not be the best for you. So I'll jump in the "Others" category that Dave mentioned above, but for me $2,800 wasn't necessarily "cheap".

I asked myself what did I truly want to do. Daily drive my autocross prepped car, or autocross my daily driver? I wanted to retain a car that can be competitive, and still be okay driving most days for whatever reason. Maybe Ohlins would afford that, but not with my setup.

Your carbon bits would look pretty, but why?
 

Roald

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
GTI mk 7 2017
I run the Bilstein B16's, albeit in the DCC version. My compromise was I wanted to keep the DCC feature intact, so that limited my options between to brands. Aside from the electronic control, I am not sure what the real difference is between the B16 models.

I am very competitive in local and regional autcross events, but national level events my suspension will not keep up.

So while Ohlins are great (had them in my E46 M3), the best option out there may not be the best for you. So I'll jump in the "Others" category that Dave mentioned above, but for me $2,800 wasn't necessarily "cheap".

I asked myself what did I truly want to do. Daily drive my autocross prepped car, or autocross my daily driver? I wanted to retain a car that can be competitive, and still be okay driving most days for whatever reason. Maybe Ohlins would afford that, but not with my setup.

Your carbon bits would look pretty, but why?
Yeah the cost is definitely up there on the ohlins, but I could see how/why they would be solid. The internet definitely seems to agree on their quality. I'm not 100% against doing that, but I'm also relatively certain that the quality would be lost on me. I would like to go with something less expensive so long as it doesn't mean the DD ride is going to be miserable.

I'm of the same-ish mindset that you are. I want a fun DD that I can also AutoX. I also have absolutely zero intention of attempting this beyond what's local to me in central ohio. My ST U/H classes are thin anyways, most everyone has a miata,mustang or camaro.


As for the carbon. I just like the look. I've done it before on a mazda 3 I had. I just like things that are different. Honestly that's way lower on the the list. Mostly because cosmetics are tough to keep nice. And I can "reasonably" :D justify performance type parts more so than cosmetics. We also have actual winter here and that type of stuff doesn't normally hold up super well. I'm not dead set on it, and I would much prefer to figure out suspension and/or a tune in no particular order. I just assumed the suspension work would be more beneficial than trying to throw down more power, I would like to do both at some point.
 
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scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
In the end I would love to do things like get a DP, tune, suspension, carbon fenders, hood, maybe a wrap, a scroth harness ( I'm tall but I only weigh 160 and I slide around ALOT since I'm not really filling the seat).

Currently I'm in GS, but I think something like a Tune or suspension might be next on the horizon. This is my DD and we do travel but any long trips we rent a car for. I can tolerate some difference in ride

If you're doing classed, competitive driving, you will save a ton of money if you figure out what class and ruleset you want to end up in before you buy anything. Carbon body panels, for example, might put you in a highly modified class, possibly with semi-slicks, full aero, and minimal power limits.

Originally I was looking at the B16s but apparently that's mostly a street setup.

Aside from the electronic control, I am not sure what the real difference is between the B16 models.
B16 damptronics come with softer springs than the PSS10 kit. The mechanically adjustable version can also be re-valved to use whatever springrates/dampening curve you want. One option is to look for used B14/B16 kits and later have them rebuilt/sprung as your needs change.

I see a number of folks have a Redline kit, but what are other go-to kits for auto-x and DD? Ideally I would be keeping it around $1500~ but if there's solid reason to go one way or another I would be interested to hear it.
I'm not trying to slam it. I just want something more geared towards AX that will also be okay for DD.

I do not yet have a fsb or rsb. The only autox mod I have so far is 200tw tires on a second set of wheels.
Not sure what redline refers to. If you mean RedShift Motorsports (now Standard Racing Suspension), those are supposed to be some pretty good coilovers for the price. I have no personal experience with them but I'm sure they'll be harsher for street driving.

IMO if you're not concerned about really being competitive, you don't need to drive the cost up with adjustability. Get a set of B12s and call it a day. Take the savings and put it into a good sway bar and a quickfit.
 
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Roald

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
GTI mk 7 2017
Yep. 100% meant RedShift. Fixed in original post.
I assumed the adjustability would be useful for bridging the Autox / streetable feel?
 

SouthFL_Mk7.5

Autocross Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2019 GTI S
I’m accomplishing a Daily Driven street/comfort setup which gets autocrossed and track days via the VWR spring/damper kit in combination with Eurosport camber strut tops and Superpro Lower Control Arms.
Camber up front is at -2.2, ride quality is great with factory like NVH. Handling dynamics are to my liking. In back a rear sway bar and good to go.
I’ve thought of going to coilovers but I’m really satisfied with the setup.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Yep. 100% meant RedShift. Fixed in original post.
I assumed the adjustability would be useful for bridging the Autox / streetable feel?
Call Redshift and tell them what you want. They will set you up with customs spring rates, I'd do along the lines of 400/600 lbs.

If you want an even better street ride, get 17's for the street.
 

11blueGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Sacramento
Car(s)
2019 DVP Spektrum R
If you're doing classed, competitive driving, you will save a ton of money if you figure out what class and ruleset you want to end up in before you buy anything. Carbon body panels, for example, might put you in a highly modified class, possibly with semi-slicks, full aero, and minimal power limits.
This is the key. You will likely end up ahead for a lot less by going ground control with custom rate springs and a set of b8 struts. Then depending on where you end up on springs get them revalved and if needed shortened further.

Find ways to get as much camber legally in the class you pick.

Larger rear sway (I prefer front and rear on awd only rear for fwd).

Keep in mind many engine mods (tune on a turbo car for example) will bump you to a much higher class.
 

Roald

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
GTI mk 7 2017
Oh interesting about the tune. I had read through the ST sectioned and assumed that a tune was okay in that class but looking back it looks like maybe that isn't the case.Maybe that isn't the case as the ST rules don't say anything about turbo/FI vehicles
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Oh interesting about the tune. I had read through the ST sectioned and assumed that a tune was okay in that class but looking back it looks like maybe that isn't the case.Maybe that isn't the case as the ST rules don't say anything about turbo/FI vehicles
You can tune in STH. Stg 1 or Stg 2, but there are some restrictions around cats.

If you've decided on STH, then this is the thread you want to get into.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...ouring-hatchback-sth-discussion-setup.366133/
 
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GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
And there's only 2 classes I'd even consider autocrossing competitively with a mk7.

A few more if you don't care about being competitive and want a track car.

GS - slap on a big rear sway, alignment, maybe Koni sports, 245 200tw tires and call it a day. If you want to stay in GS and run a stg 1 tune on the street, you can, but you'll have to unmarry the AP to be nationally legal. Locally, you could get away with flashing the stock map, but you'll lose if someone protests you.

STH- look at the thread I posted. STH rules are slightly different that other ST classes and to many rules to list here, but camber plates, coils, TBE, tune, stock locations IC, and 255 or 265 200tw are a good start.

XSA or SM - you won't be competitive locally or nationally, but if you primarily track and occasionally autocross, this allows you to build a no compromise track car and also have a place to play on track. XSA if you're wanting to use 200tw tires. SM if you're going to use Hoosier crack. Or, if your local club has a Tire class, run Tire with an SM multiplier. The pax is better than XSA if only doing local events.

The amount of time and money needed to build a nationally competitive mk7 XSA car would be astronomical, if not impossible.
 

SouthFL_Mk7.5

Autocross Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2019 GTI S
My son and I like doing this local autocross event which uses a go kart track. It’s really fun because it’s like running a mini road course- they use cones to create chicanes and slaloms to keep speeds down. They do keep time and had a competitive theme to each event (quickest ‘80s/‘90s car, FWD shootout, RWD, etc.)… it was fun.
Recently, the event organizer created a competition classification and the dividing line is 220tw for “street” or “race” divisions…. I had a good discussion with him as to the logic of 200tw as being THE logical number, as the tire industry uses it as a standard pretty much set by the SCCA classifications…. but he was adamant on 220tw being the cutoff for his event and said he doesn’t follow SCCA rules. This placed my son’s GTI with his RT660’s in the same division as slicks. Kinda defeated the purpose of seaking out the latest and greatest 200tw tire to run with, but whatver, it’s all fun.
Anyhow there are non SCCA events out there that one can have fun running the car in.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
My son and I like doing this local autocross event which uses a go kart track. It’s really fun because it’s like running a mini road course- they use cones to create chicanes and slaloms to keep speeds down. They do keep time and had a competitive theme to each event (quickest ‘80s/‘90s car, FWD shootout, RWD, etc.)… it was fun.
Recently, the event organizer created a competition classification and the dividing line is 220tw for “street” or “race” divisions…. I had a good discussion with him as to the logic of 200tw as being THE logical number, as the tire industry uses it as a standard pretty much set by the SCCA classifications…. but he was adamant on 220tw being the cutoff for his event and said he doesn’t follow SCCA rules. This placed my son’s GTI with his RT660’s in the same division as slicks. Kinda defeated the purpose of seaking out the latest and greatest 200tw tire to run with, but whatver, it’s all fun.
Anyhow there are non SCCA events out there that one can have fun running the car in.
To be fair, RT660's are grippier that more than one 100TW tire out there. 220tw does seem to be a weird cutoff.

If I ruled the world, street would be 280 or 300tw and have a minimum durometer spec that the tires had to meet in order to qualify. Unfortunately, I haven't been named ruler of the universe yet. I'm still hoping.

And a grand touring class with 500tw rating...lol.
 

SouthFL_Mk7.5

Autocross Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2019 GTI S
The event has recently been sponsored by a local tire company which makes at best a 300tw UHP tire. They do giveaways and sponsor cars. This could be the driving factor for the 220tw designation- so that their sponsor tire doesn’t get absolutely trashed by the guys with 200tw. This would make 280tw seem more logical.

And 500tw! Touring tire class! Would look like ‘70s, early 80’s tv chase scenes! Fun!
 
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