Wheel Bearing Change

[Cuzoe]

Number 6 in the first picture, 70NM +90°
Number 1 in the second, 200NM +180°

For what it's worth, the manual also shows two other drive axle types that come on various golf variants, one of them is a six-point and another which is also a 12 point, all of them specify 200Nm +180°

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[Britishav8tor1]

That pic is hard to see which bolt is 6 point and which is 12 - in the bentley manual for my mk5 it says 52 ft lbs (71nm) plus 90 for 12 points- which is what I got in the kit to replace my wheel bearing. My mk5 came from the factory with a 6 point which had a separate washer and the bentley said that was 147 ft lbs (200 nm) + 180 (which when I did it I got maybe 130 degrees before giving up). interesting point, the 12 point came with thread lock on it but the 6 point didnt.

My 2016 Mk7 has 12 point bolt no washer. as the manual says, break it loose 90 degrees with the wheels on the ground then jack it up and undo it the rest of the way. I will set my torque wrench to 50 lbs and see if clicks before loosening it. (not ideal but its something, also my arm-o-torque wrench should be able to tell the difference between 52 and 147 ft lbs

Ill let you know what I find once i get into it.

 

[Cuzoe]

I'm taking pictures of my computer screen so hopefully they come out clear but this page gives the instructions for loosening the 12-point bolt as well as tightening it.

The video that you referenced in post 105 is correct for those three bolts at 52 pound-feet, or 70 Nm. You just have to add the additional 90°. And the manual specifically says to torque the 12-point to 200Nm and then an additional 180° with the vehicle on the ground.

I'm not sure what the confusion is. You already stated your mk7 has a 12-point and the spec for that is given in the VW manual I posted pictures of. I don't have an MK5, or the Bentley manual for it but I'm unsure why that even matters.

I replaced my passenger hub/bearing assembly recently. Reference my post above in this thread about getting that additional 180 on the axle bolt. I ended up buying a larger breaker bar and slipping the handle of my floor jack over that to get the leverage I needed. I didn't use a torque wrench when removing any of the bolts. But even if a bolt wasn't initially torqued to spec (or had loosened over time) that wouldn't dictate the torque value to use when replacing it.

I would expect a stretch bolt to take less torque on removal then it takes on install because you're not stretching it. I was not comfortable doing anything other than what the manual said when I replaced my assembly. But I replaced axles on a Subaru I had years ago and I didn't even own a torque wrench at the time. Nothing fell off of that car so as always, ymmv.

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[Britishav8tor1]

Got it! Thanks for all your help.

 

[anotero]

This is probably too late but the torque on the wheel axle bolt is different depending on if its a 6 point bolt or a 12 point one.

If (and I say if because I can't find it published anywhere) but If the torque is the same as the MK5 and 6 then if you have a 12 point bolt its 52 ft lbs + 90 degrees. If you have a 6 point its 147ft lbs plus 180 degrees.



The part I can't find is what the torque specs are for the three bolts that hold the bearing to the spindle. On the A1 video listed below they said 52 lbs but considering they they did a few things completely wrong in that video and the 52lbs sounds a lot like the axle bolt torque spec Im not willing to trust them.

According to the 2015 service manual that lists the 12 point, the torque is 200N-m and 180.

Edit
The user above beat me to it.

 

[Cuzoe]

No worries, my apologies for coming off snippy, having an annoying day at work... got called in for some nonsense. Make sure you have a quality 12 point socket for that axle bolt. I had a cheap one that wanted to come off the bolt when I was trying to torque it, would have destroyed my knuckles.

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[Britishav8tor1]

@cuzoe one last question did you have remove the lower ball joint nuts and slide the axle out or were you able to get to the 3 bolts holding the bearing on without remove all of that?

Also after some digging I found a post with this dropbox link in it to the Erwin suspension doc in case anyone else needs it - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9b7sfl3r...=D4B80416633-Suspension__Wheels__Steering.pdf

 

[Cuzoe]

I had to remove the lower ball joint nuts. I wrestled with trying to get it out for longer than it took to actually do it the way the manual told me to.

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[jimlloyd40]

Usually with a bad wheel bearing you'll hear a humming type noise at a certain speed. Can a wheel bearing be bad and not noisy and also cause a tire to get a slight cupped pattern?

 

[anotero]

@cuzoe one last question did you have remove the lower ball joint nuts and slide the axle out or were you able to get to the 3 bolts holding the bearing on without remove all of that?

Also after some digging I found a post with this dropbox link in it to the Erwin suspension doc in case anyone else needs it - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9b7sfl3r...=D4B80416633-Suspension__Wheels__Steering.pdf

I don't think there's room to pull the axle out of the bearing without disconnecting the ball joint from the LCA.

 

[Britishav8tor1]

if the bearing slides off the front then really if the axle isnt in the way of the 3 bolts holding the bearing then technically you should be able to undo them and slide the bearing off the axle (this could be wishful thinking though) I just dont want mess my alignment up by taking the ball joint off (I know it wont be out by much but when Ive done this on my old GTI it did change it enough).

 

[Britishav8tor1]

Well it’s done! It took me almost 4 hours some of which was just talking with my friend that was hanging out.
Here’s a few things I discovered - they maybe unique to my car but may help someone else in the future.
1. The axle has to come out to remove it (pretty no brained there)
2. The splines of my axle had blue loc tite on them from the factory - I threaded the axle bolt in then used a three jaw pulled in reverse (so the the center screw pushed the axle out.
3 the bearing was very rusty and was hard to turn by hand. There was glob of lock tite at the bottom of the spindle housing where the bearing seats it was blocking the drain hole.
4. 200nm isn’t the tough part, that’s the 180 degrees. I bent my cheater bar trying to do it- I got it about 100-110 degrees. It ain’t coming off.

Biggest mistake I made - I removed the ball joint nuts and got it off the lower control arm only to have the shock move down hard. I should have removed the sway bar linkage first. I had to jack up the shock from the ball joint to undo the sway linkage. Nothing got bent though.

 

[Britishav8tor1]

My factory bearing was a skf one I replaced it with a fag brand one from fcpeuro. In case anyone wants to know

 

[Cuzoe]

I used a jaw puller just as you did. I did remove the sway bar linkage. And yes, the 180° is the beast of it all, haha.

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[anotero]

Well it’s done! It took me almost 4 hours some of which was just talking with my friend that was hanging out.

Here’s a few things I discovered - they maybe unique to my car but may help someone else in the future.

1. The axle has to come out to remove it (pretty no brained there)

2. The splines of my axle had blue loc tite on them from the factory - I threaded the axle bolt in then used a three jaw pulled in reverse (so the the center screw pushed the axle out.

3 the bearing was very rusty and was hard to turn by hand. There was glob of lock tite at the bottom of the spindle housing where the bearing seats it was blocking the drain hole.

4. 200nm isn’t the tough part, that’s the 180 degrees. I bent my cheater bar trying to do it- I got it about 100-110 degrees. It ain’t coming off.



Biggest mistake I made - I removed the ball joint nuts and got it off the lower control arm only to have the shock move down hard. I should have removed the sway bar linkage first. I had to jack up the shock from the ball joint to undo the sway linkage. Nothing got bent though.

I bought a 5' hollow pipe at Home Depot, slid it over the 2' breaker bar and torqued the 12-point to something above 100 degrees. Looked hillarious while doing it.