What order would you do this in?

[Daks]

I have the following to install:

1. B6 Damptronic
2. H&R OE Springs
3. H&R rear sway and moog endlinks
4. Whiteline front sway and whiteline front endlinks
5. BFI Lower Control Arms
6. Unitronic dogbone mount
7. Tyrol sport Deadset Kit

The rear is easy. But the front, how would you tackle this? Would you drop the subframe first? Would you do the struts first?

 

[Diggs24]

1 and 2. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
3. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
4. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
5. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
6 and 7. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
8. get an alignment

 

[Daks]

1 and 2. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
3. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
4. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
5. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
6 and 7. test drive and ensure no issues/noises
8. get an alignment

Diggs, If I'm dropping the subframe for the front Sway - why not do the dogbone and deadset kit then as well?

 

[messrock]

Diggs, If I'm dropping the subframe for the front Sway - why not do the dogbone and deadset kit then as well?

Because then you’re chasing more than one thing for a problem. Dogbone and deadset together will be obvious finding a problem.

 

[Daks]

But dropping the subframe twice.....

 

[Diggs24]

dont want you getting rusty

 

[Daks]

Bahumbug

 

[DerHase]

I have the following to install:

1. B6 Damptronic
2. H&R OE Springs
3. H&R rear sway and moog endlinks
4. Whiteline front sway and whiteline front endlinks
5. BFI Lower Control Arms
6. Unitronic dogbone mount
7. Tyrol sport Deadset Kit

The rear is easy. But the front, how would you tackle this? Would you drop the subframe first? Would you do the struts first?

1. Unbolt axles (large bolt at hub), 3 lower ball joint nuts, end links, remove wheel speed sensor (still connected to wiring), unbolt calipers and brackets and set out of the way (on top of a box, etc so brake line isn’t stressed), remove rotors just to get rid of extra weight, remove outer tie rod from knuckle, undo the 3 upper strut mount bolts and remove the entire knuckle/strut as an assembly. Optional: remove backing plates just so they don’t get bent up.

2. Disassemble each side (one at a time) to change the springs/shocks and reassemble into complete units.

3. Reinstall the strut/knuckle assemblies up top, and temporarily put the calipers back on loosely, or tie them up to the coil spring just to get them off the floor/out of the way.

4. Drop subframe, install the sway bar and the LCAs. Order doesn’t really matter. When dropping I always unbolt the rack from the subframe and leave it hanging. Installing a friends Whiteline bar had some weird interference between rack and sway bar - if you can’t get both installed, try unbolting the sway bar brackets and seating the rack in place first when it goes back in. Was a 2018 R for reference. Also it is squeaking a year later when it rains. So plan on semi-regular maintenance of it.

5. Dog one mount and dead set kit both go in when subframe goes back in.



I’ve had my subframe out like 5x in 2 years and the above is basically my procedure now. It seems like “a lot” but can have the subframe on the floor in about 20 minutes, or both strut/knuckle assemblies removed in about 30. It’s WAY faster than the stupid 2x4 method (which I’ve also done multiple times). The $20-30 in hardware is less expensive than what I value my time and patience at.

 

[Daks]

1. Unbolt axles (large bolt at hub), 3 lower ball joint nuts, end links, remove wheel speed sensor (still connected to wiring), unbolt calipers and brackets and set out of the way (on top of a box, etc so brake line isn’t stressed), remove rotors just to get rid of extra weight, remove outer tie rod from knuckle, undo the 3 upper strut mount bolts and remove the entire knuckle/strut as an assembly. Optional: remove backing plates just so they don’t get bent up.

2. Disassemble each side (one at a time) to change the springs/shocks and reassemble into complete units.

3. Reinstall the strut/knuckle assemblies up top, and temporarily put the calipers back on loosely, or tie them up to the coil spring just to get them off the floor/out of the way.

4. Drop subframe, install the sway bar and the LCAs. Order doesn’t really matter. When dropping I always unbolt the rack from the subframe and leave it hanging. Installing a friends Whiteline bar had some weird interference between rack and sway bar - if you can’t get both installed, try unbolting the sway bar brackets and seating the rack in place first when it goes back in. Was a 2018 R for reference. Also it is squeaking a year later when it rains. So plan on semi-regular maintenance of it.

5. Dog one mount and dead set kit both go in when subframe goes back in.



I’ve had my subframe out like 5x in 2 years and the above is basically my procedure now. It seems like “a lot” but can have the subframe on the floor in about 20 minutes, or both strut/knuckle assemblies removed in about 30. It’s WAY faster than the stupid 2x4 method (which I’ve also done multiple times). The $20-30 in hardware is less expensive than what I value my time and patience at.

This does seem like a lot and a little intimidating considering the rust I'll have to battle with. Odds are I will be doing 2x4. and what do you mean by maintenance of the sway bar? Just grease?

 

[scrllock]

I have the following to install:

1. B6 Damptronic
2. H&R OE Springs
3. H&R rear sway and moog endlinks
4. Whiteline front sway and whiteline front endlinks
5. BFI Lower Control Arms
6. Unitronic dogbone mount
7. Tyrol sport Deadset Kit

The rear is easy. But the front, how would you tackle this? Would you drop the subframe first? Would you do the struts first?

I don't see the point in doing the 2x4 method if you're doing all that. Control arms are coming out, might as well loosen/replace one more bolt and avoid the jank.

I would suggest a subframe mount tool, I'm sure there's a VW one on snapon, but I used this:

https://www.urotuning.com/products/...-tool-kit-rv581m900200?variant=13483313987639

I would 100% do it all at once and avoid multiple alignments, unless you're like mrmatto and love spending time in discount tire waiting rooms.
DerHase's route is pretty good, personally I don't bother taking the brake assembly off and it's not that bad finagling the control arm back onto the balljoints as long as you're using rubber LCA bushings.

 

[DerHase]

This does seem like a lot and a little intimidating considering the rust I'll have to battle with. Odds are I will be doing 2x4. and what do you mean by maintenance of the sway bar? Just grease?

Yes, re-greasing it will likely be a regular thing. Granted - he does a bunch of track driving so that may have something to do with it. When you install it the first time, just know that you really can't use too much grease. It goes between the bar and the bushing only, not between the bushing and the bracket.


I was a tech for 17yrs - one thing I've learned along the way is that 9/10 times when there's some kind of method for saving time... it usually doesn't. I found the 2x4 method to be a pain in the ass because the axle has limited range of motion and with a stock strut you have to compress the hell out of it to be able to get it out of the knuckle.

It's way easier to mess with that pinch bolt on a bench/the floor because if you're not putting it PERFECTLY straight in, it will bind up and you'll be fighting it. And since you're also dropping the subframe, there's really zero reason to bother trying to shortcut it at all as @scrllock said. You're removing most of the stuff to begin with.

Removing the brake stuff definitely isn't fully necessary, but I find the extra few min to be worth not having to finagle another ~20ish lbs of weight when messing with the knuckle/strut assembly.

I'll have my subframe out and pulling my struts again in the next few weeks to make a few small changes - might try to take a video of the process.

 

[Daks]

Yes, re-greasing it will likely be a regular thing. Granted - he does a bunch of track driving so that may have something to do with it. When you install it the first time, just know that you really can't use too much grease. It goes between the bar and the bushing only, not between the bushing and the bracket.


I was a tech for 17yrs - one thing I've learned along the way is that 9/10 times when there's some kind of method for saving time... it usually doesn't. I found the 2x4 method to be a pain in the ass because the axle has limited range of motion and with a stock strut you have to compress the hell out of it to be able to get it out of the knuckle.

It's way easier to mess with that pinch bolt on a bench/the floor because if you're not putting it PERFECTLY straight in, it will bind up and you'll be fighting it. And since you're also dropping the subframe, there's really zero reason to bother trying to shortcut it at all as @scrllock said. You're removing most of the stuff to begin with.

Removing the brake stuff definitely isn't fully necessary, but I find the extra few min to be worth not having to finagle another ~20ish lbs of weight when messing with the knuckle/strut assembly.

I'll have my subframe out and pulling my struts again in the next few weeks to make a few small changes - might try to take a video of the process.

You'd drop subframe first and then tackle the struts.

 

[Daks]

I don't see the point in doing the 2x4 method if you're doing all that. Control arms are coming out, might as well loosen/replace one more bolt and avoid the jank.

I would suggest a subframe mount tool, I'm sure there's a VW one on snapon, but I used this:

https://www.urotuning.com/products/...-tool-kit-rv581m900200?variant=13483313987639

I would 100% do it all at once and avoid multiple alignments, unless you're like mrmatto and love spending time in discount tire waiting rooms.
DerHase's route is pretty good, personally I don't bother taking the brake assembly off and it's not that bad finagling the control arm back onto the balljoints as long as you're using rubber LCA bushings.

What's this tool for?

 

[scrllock]

What's this tool for?

press subframe bushings out and in.

 

[GolfRRRR1]

1. Unbolt axles (large bolt at hub), 3 lower ball joint nuts, end links, remove wheel speed sensor (still connected to wiring), unbolt calipers and brackets and set out of the way (on top of a box, etc so brake line isn’t stressed), remove rotors just to get rid of extra weight, remove outer tie rod from knuckle, undo the 3 upper strut mount bolts and remove the entire knuckle/strut as an assembly. Optional: remove backing plates just so they don’t get bent up.

2. Disassemble each side (one at a time) to change the springs/shocks and reassemble into complete units.

3. Reinstall the strut/knuckle assemblies up top, and temporarily put the calipers back on loosely, or tie them up to the coil spring just to get them off the floor/out of the way.

4. Drop subframe, install the sway bar and the LCAs. Order doesn’t really matter. When dropping I always unbolt the rack from the subframe and leave it hanging. Installing a friends Whiteline bar had some weird interference between rack and sway bar - if you can’t get both installed, try unbolting the sway bar brackets and seating the rack in place first when it goes back in. Was a 2018 R for reference. Also it is squeaking a year later when it rains. So plan on semi-regular maintenance of it.

5. Dog one mount and dead set kit both go in when subframe goes back in.



I’ve had my subframe out like 5x in 2 years and the above is basically my procedure now. It seems like “a lot” but can have the subframe on the floor in about 20 minutes, or both strut/knuckle assemblies removed in about 30. It’s WAY faster than the stupid 2x4 method (which I’ve also done multiple times). The $20-30 in hardware is less expensive than what I value my time and patience at.

All this ^, DerHase laid it out nicely but since you're in Toronto, use anti-seize liberally (on the little bolts). I swapped my subframe for the sole reason to prevent rust and refresh bolts ...and add a front swaybar and downpipe of course LOL. Only broke 1 bolt (exhaust hanger) getting the subframe out, but need to replace my swaybar mount bolts as they are severely rusted and are long and thin (M8x80mm or 90mm), so I have to order those up. I don't know about anyone else, but every time I work on a VW suspension, the swaybar end links are my nemesis, so prepare for that struggle.
My main point since you live more north, prepare for rust issues (not the big main subframe bolts). Took longer for me to deal with the damn swaybar end links than the subframe swap in total.