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What oil do you run?

2018gti

Passed Driver's Ed
Avoid this oil like plague. ACEA A3/B4 is a high ash (SAPS) oil which is detrimental to GDI engines intake valves.
Much better choice is low saps oils ACEA C1 or C4. Also consider thinnest base oil possible like 0w-20 due to their higher NOACK which decreases deposit formation on intake valves due to their increased volatility / increased evaporative cleaning. Higher viscosity oils have usually lower NOACK (decreased volatility and evaporation) which contributes to increased deposit formation.
I only run 0w-20 ST HM SN PLUS with 5K OCI with great results. Mobil1 EP 0w-20, PPPP 0w-20 are also great choices for GDI engines with high quality base oils.
The latest API SN PLUS was specifically developed for turbocharged engines to protect against LSPI so look for oil with that spec.
Yeah I’m still under the warranty, so I won’t be using 0W-20.. isn’t that a little thin? I have a 2018 so 5W-40 is what the dealer will put in the car if you ask for an oil change. Technically, 0W-40 isn’t listed in the user manual but it‘s on the approved VW list for 2018 and others have used it so I figure there won’t be any issues. 0W-20 though.. no thanks lol. That sounds risky.

And what do you mean by high ash? Is it any higher than Castrol 5W-40? If not significantly then I’m not too concerned.

I think about this way.. something that is dirty, can always be cleaned (e.g. intake valves). Something that is worn out, well, can’t be un-worn out. I’m not gonna use a really thin oil that’ll wear out the engine more, just to (maybe) keep the intake valves cleaner. 🤷‍♂️
 

Navi

Drag Racing Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
I think about this way.. something that is dirty, can always be cleaned (e.g. intake valves). Something that is worn out, well, can’t be un-worn out. I’m not gonna use a really thin oil that’ll wear out the engine more, just to (maybe) keep the intake valves cleaner. 🤷‍♂️
bingo
 

aaronc7

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Clovis, NM
Yeah I’m still under the warranty, so I won’t be using 0W-20.. isn’t that a little thin? I have a 2018 so 5W-40 is what the dealer will put in the car if you ask for an oil change. Technically, 0W-40 isn’t listed in the user manual but it‘s on the approved VW list for 2018 and others have used it so I figure there won’t be any issues. 0W-20 though.. no thanks lol. That sounds risky.

And what do you mean by high ash? Is it any higher than Castrol 5W-40? If not significantly then I’m not too concerned.

I think about this way.. something that is dirty, can always be cleaned (e.g. intake valves). Something that is worn out, well, can’t be un-worn out. I’m not gonna use a really thin oil that’ll wear out the engine more, just to (maybe) keep the intake valves cleaner. 🤷‍♂️
Mobil 1 lists Sulfated ash content and IIRC their 0w-40 FS that meets 502 spec is 1.3 and ESP and other vanilla formulas are around 0.8. Almost double-- what that means in terms of actual buildup on the valves, I haven't seen any real data/testing/pictures. The other thicker oils like 5w50, 15w50 are also around 1.3 SA. Not sure about Castrol but probably generally follows suit where the 'heavy duty' oils have quite a bit more than the standard w30 w20 oils.
 

goodvibes

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
IL
No I haven't done analysis on oil I run. Why waist money when there's plenty of UOA's on ST oil all over the net with great results even after 10K miles exceeding some high priced boutique oils with bloated advertising budgets. Don't knock down ST just because it's sold by Walmart.
ST is made by one of the oldest and most reputable oil blender (WPP - example MAG1) in the world which holds the largest API licences and certifications.
Their oil blends are sold in over 50 countries throughout the world.
They know something about the oil being in business since early 1900's.
As far as warranty, any approved API SN, SN Pus, ILSAC GF5 oil will not void it (confirmed with my local VW shop) as long as you save your receipts.
ST bottle doesn't show approved by VW because it was never tested by VW (it costs big money to do that) but in reality far exceeds those specs.
So you have no idea how well it works in your particular motor. Got it. Your oil is made by Warren in the midwest, Mobil in the south and Safetykleen in Canada. Nothing wrong with that but they are a bit lower on additives and all group 3 where Castrol 0w40 has a good amount of esters and PAO with a better add pack. In the correct viscosity, I'm sure ST is fine but the 502 approval is a big deal for warranty reasons and Castrol Edge 0w40 is simply a better oil. I also guarantee you that ST would not meet either 502 or 504 if tested. Not a big deal with your 5k drains but it is what it is. You can also see that it has some ratings. They've applied for the ones they can pass.

If you feel the need for ST, switch to AmazonBasics full synth 0w20 which all comes from Warren with the same add pack.
 
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goodvibes

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
IL
Mobil 1 lists Sulfated ash content and IIRC their 0w-40 FS that meets 502 spec is 1.3 and ESP and other vanilla formulas are around 0.8. Almost double-- what that means in terms of actual buildup on the valves, I haven't seen any real data/testing/pictures. The other thicker oils like 5w50, 15w50 are also around 1.3 SA. Not sure about Castrol but probably generally follows suit where the 'heavy duty' oils have quite a bit more than the standard w30 w20 oils.
I believe Castrol 0w40 is around that 0.8 mentioned. Great oil.
 

goodvibes

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
IL
That's probably correct. Thanks. I believe it's a function of long life oils and larger/stronger additive packs to support that.
 

goodvibes

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
IL
No I haven't done analysis on oil I run. Why waist money when there's plenty of UOA's on ST oil all over the net with great results even after 10K miles exceeding some high priced boutique oils with bloated advertising budgets. Don't knock down ST just because it's sold by Walmart.
ST is made by one of the oldest and most reputable oil blender (WPP - example MAG1) in the world which holds the largest API licences and certifications.
Their oil blends are sold in over 50 countries throughout the world.
They know something about the oil being in business since early 1900's.
As far as warranty, any approved API SN, SN Pus, ILSAC GF5 oil will not void it (confirmed with my local VW shop) as long as you save your receipts.
ST bottle doesn't show approved by VW because it was never tested by VW (it costs big money to do that) but in reality far exceeds those specs.
Without UOAs, you'd be better of with ST 5w30 and I wouldn't go lighter if you do spirited driving as would seem likely from your sig.
 

Navi

Drag Racing Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
Can't really talk about the specifics of an oil without a UOA or Virgin Oil Analysis. Outside of that, it's just here-say. Also, short oil change intervals make it almost unnecessary to really care what oil you are using. The plethora of oils on the market today with OEM approvals are all very good. Oil and gas type/quality is not going to save your valves. Valve cleaning will be a required maintenance at some point if you keep the car long term.

I've experimented with many different oils including Purol, Mobil 1, Castrol, Liquimoly, Motul, Eneos, Ravenol and Redline. Sometimes I use the recommended oil weight, sometimes I don't. I always get oil analysis on them, and not one single time has the analysis come back with "OMG change this shit oil." Literally every time the lab technician summarizes with: "this oil is good, no abnormal/excessive wear, and you should think about extending your oil change intervals."
 

goodvibes

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
IL
Usually the case but I guarantee you that my bro wished he had used heavier than 0w20 on his BRZ track day. His next UOA came back with with close to 400 copper. That would indicate to me that the film wasn't strong enough for the heat and load to protect the crank bearing sufficiently. He's staying with 0w20 for warranty but no more track days. That was with PP ultra so not a problem with the oil quality choice. Hopefully that clears up in a few UOAs.
 

Navi

Drag Racing Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
Yeah track days: never run 0w20. Might as well use water. It’s so light. Won’t leave any protective coating. Honestly the only reason I see companies using 0w20 is for gas efficiency. Back in my younger days, 0w20 wasn’t even a thing. Didn’t even exist.
 

goodvibes

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
IL
Same here. Guys in performance cars were using straight weights because the multi weights would turn to goo.
 

ZuMBLe

Drag Racing Champion
Location
NY
Ride
Alltrack 6MT
Can't really talk about the specifics of an oil without a UOA or Virgin Oil Analysis. Outside of that, it's just here-say. Also, short oil change intervals make it almost unnecessary to really care what oil you are using. The plethora of oils on the market today with OEM approvals are all very good. Oil and gas type/quality is not going to save your valves. Valve cleaning will be a required maintenance at some point if you keep the car long term.

I've experimented with many different oils including Purol, Mobil 1, Castrol, Liquimoly, Motul, Eneos, Ravenol and Redline. Sometimes I use the recommended oil weight, sometimes I don't. I always get oil analysis on them, and not one single time has the analysis come back with "OMG change this shit oil." Literally every time the lab technician summarizes with: "this oil is good, no abnormal/excessive wear, and you should think about extending your oil change intervals."
Check this out:
 

goodvibes

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
IL
Yeah track days: never run 0w20. Might as well use water. It’s so light. Won’t leave any protective coating. Honestly the only reason I see companies using 0w20 is for gas efficiency. Back in my younger days, 0w20 wasn’t even a thing. Didn’t even exist.
He actually researched well beforehand. Temp goes up significantly with higher weights which mitigates the extra film strength. Apparently not as much as he expected. It's odd because it's a car made for this use and his issue is not uncommon. Who knows? Maybe it was high sustained G related oil starvation.
 

ZuMBLe

Drag Racing Champion
Location
NY
Ride
Alltrack 6MT
More importantly, can you make a video about if we can use Mobil 1 as vegetable cooking oil?
That's silly.. Mobil 1 would be synthetic cooking oil, not vegetable cooking oil.

Well.. there goes that idea.. The more you know... or some shit like that.
1-3-2020 3-49-18 PM.jpg
 

goodvibes

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
IL
race oil + oil cooler > low temps + unprotected engine
Had a cooler. I found a chart and it looked like a 30w was the best compromise so ya, I would have also gone heavier but if it was starvation, wouldn’t have mattered.
 
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