What did you do to your mk7 today?

[bobloblawGTI]

I finally got the replacement rear-view mirror trim cover in, but for the life of me, I can't get it to clip in. I verified that the part numbers match my original broken one. What's the secret? The two pieces clip together just fine, and I can get it started behind the mirror, just can't get it to clip in right.

Mine did the same thing. I eventually got it by snapping it all together around the mirror but off the windshield, and then snapping it all up there as one piece.

 

[Blade3562]

Started dropping a trans in a 1.8 manual, I was wondering if someone could point me into the right direction as of torque specs for the ptessure plate and flywheel on the 1.8t? I am rather unsure as the mk7 golf r manual transmission specs cant be the same.

I am also dropping the subframe for a flawless install. I have a source to purchase a dcc steering rack for 100 a peice locally from a scrapper. I am so wondering if i could change the settings via vcds/obd11 if the car originally didnt come with dcc as per me believing it could be plug and play?
View attachment 327425View attachment 327426Thanks!!

@Blade3562

Man it's been a while, but I used factory specs. If the flywheel to crank bolts are triple square I believe they are 44ft/lb + 1/4 turn. Make sure to evenly tighten them in a star pattern. For the pressure plate to flywheel I had to buy a 3/8 torque wrench and 3/8 drive 9mm. These get tightened in the same fashion but only to 15 ft/lbs. The specs should be the same as a 2005/2006 MkV Jetta TDI (only the pump deuce models). If you have the subframe out look for an A3/S3 aluminum one. Well worth the $150 from LKQ. I installed mine in the Mk1 fashion with the diff pointing up then rotating into place once above everything.

I have no clue if the DCC rack is different, @Cuzoe is the man for that. I know someone installed an R rack in their GSW4Mo, but I don't like non-linear steering racks. You can change your stock rack settings in VCDS. I believe there are 3 settings.

 

[DSC808]

Installed my AI brake light extension. I like the look of the new Audi's. Have 2 pieces that tape on, wire them in with the brakes. Easy right?

 

[NoGodGetOverIt]

Was getting some end-link clunky-clunky from a recent RSB install I did. Jacked the rear of the car up and lowered it onto some ramps. Loosened all the end-link fasteners and re-torqued. Problem solved.

 

[Cuzoe]

@isosloth I assume that you mean you've found a Dynamic Steering Rack for a good price, and not something to do with DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) which is active dampers.

I think it's a great upgrade, big reduction in the amount of steering input required to go from lock to lock. This graphic is from the self-study program.


Non-linear as @Blade3562 mentioned. Something to consider if that matters to you.

If your car does not currently have driving modes I believe you can use VCDS/OBD11 to change the mode for the steering rack. On my original rack the difference in modes was subtle (enough that it might have just been placebo, haha). Oh my dynamic rack the modes are very different... So much so that I first thought something was wrong in Comfort mode. I only use Sport mode for spirited driving. Out there heaviness feels good but I find it annoying day to day, haha.

 

[isosloth]

@isosloth I assume that you mean you've found a Dynamic Steering Rack for a good price, and not something to do with DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) which is active dampers.

I think it's a great upgrade, big reduction in the amount of steering input required to go from lock to lock. This graphic is from the self-study program.

View attachment 327533
Non-linear as @Blade3562 mentioned. Something to consider if that matters to you.

If your car does not currently have driving modes I believe you can use VCDS/OBD11 to change the mode for the steering rack. On my original rack the difference in modes was subtle (enough that it might have just been placebo, haha). Oh my dynamic rack the modes are very different... So much so that I first thought something was wrong in Comfort mode. I only use Sport mode for spirited driving. Out there heaviness feels good but I find it annoying day to day, haha.

That was what I was "thinking", I also have a dcc retrofit kit I could do, but that could be quite trouble some on this vehicle.

*edit missed a reply

 

[Cuzoe]

Bought this stuff years ago, didn't need tires for 3 years after purchase and certainly I was too lazy to just go have the sensors installed. New tires in December so sensors were installed, and then finally a few days ago installed the module. Wiring was run long ago.


Custom image there, although I apparently forgot to put facelift tail lights on it .

 

[david9962000]

Informative video:

 

[AdamSheikh]

Limped it home Sat night after it decided to spring a coolant leak from the lower radiator hose. Repeat incident, actually, stemming from the Wagner intercooler I run.

The IC is too loose where the radiator clips to it, so the rad can rattle free and end up falling onto the serpentine belt. This happened to me about 3 years ago and I was able to mount it more securely with the help of an additional anchor point on the core support plus a zip tie for extra safety. Also replaced the hose and serpentine belt at that time.

Seems it worked itself free once more after a few years of heat and vibration, and the belt sanded a pinhole leak in the lower hose fitting this time. Crazy part is there was no noise or other indication that anything had come loose or was contacting the belt. Came back to the car after dinner and immediately got a low coolant warning when I started it up. Luckily was able to add about half a gallon of distilled water and get it home about 4 miles away without issue.

Parked for now while I wait on the radiator hose and a serpentine belt. Naturally, you have to buy the whole hose vs. just the fitting. I've also beefed up the anchoring to the core support with metal cable ties that will withstand heat and vibration much better.

In any case, has anyone else had an issue like this with an aftermarket intercooler? I did see BMP Tuning's Mk8 R installation video and they mentioned this issue specifically. They solved it with spring washers to add tension to the tabs/clips, though it may be a challenge to do this without taking bumper and core support off.

 

[scrllock]

Limped it home Sat night after it decided to spring a coolant leak from the lower radiator hose. Repeat incident, actually, stemming from the Wagner intercooler I run.

The IC is too loose where the radiator clips to it, so the rad can rattle free and end up falling onto the serpentine belt. This happened to me about 3 years ago and I was able to mount it more securely with the help of an additional anchor point on the core support plus a zip tie for extra safety. Also replaced the hose and serpentine belt at that time.

Seems it worked itself free once more after a few years of heat and vibration, and the belt sanded a pinhole leak in the lower hose fitting this time. Crazy part is there was no noise or other indication that anything had come loose or was contacting the belt. Came back to the car after dinner and immediately got a low coolant warning when I started it up. Luckily was able to add about half a gallon of distilled water and get it home about 4 miles away without issue.

Parked for now while I wait on the radiator hose and a serpentine belt. Naturally, you have to buy the whole hose vs. just the fitting. I've also beefed up the anchoring to the core support with metal cable ties that will withstand heat and vibration much better.

In any case, has anyone else had an issue like this with an aftermarket intercooler? I did see BMP Tuning's Mk8 R installation video and they mentioned this issue specifically. They solved it with spring washers to add tension to the tabs/clips, though it may be a challenge to do this without taking bumper and core support off.

you'll need to take the bumper and core support off.

the best thing I've found is using door seal tape to remove some of the looseness. or if it's too tight for that, tessa tape.

 

[WeekendPacifist]

Limped it home Sat night after it decided to spring a coolant leak from the lower radiator hose. Repeat incident, actually, stemming from the Wagner intercooler I run.

The IC is too loose where the radiator clips to it, so the rad can rattle free and end up falling onto the serpentine belt. This happened to me about 3 years ago and I was able to mount it more securely with the help of an additional anchor point on the core support plus a zip tie for extra safety. Also replaced the hose and serpentine belt at that time.

Seems it worked itself free once more after a few years of heat and vibration, and the belt sanded a pinhole leak in the lower hose fitting this time. Crazy part is there was no noise or other indication that anything had come loose or was contacting the belt. Came back to the car after dinner and immediately got a low coolant warning when I started it up. Luckily was able to add about half a gallon of distilled water and get it home about 4 miles away without issue.

Parked for now while I wait on the radiator hose and a serpentine belt. Naturally, you have to buy the whole hose vs. just the fitting. I've also beefed up the anchoring to the core support with metal cable ties that will withstand heat and vibration much better.

In any case, has anyone else had an issue like this with an aftermarket intercooler? I did see BMP Tuning's Mk8 R installation video and they mentioned this issue specifically. They solved it with spring washers to add tension to the tabs/clips, though it may be a challenge to do this without taking bumper and core support off.

Damn, that sucks. I have that IC and there was definitely was jankyness with those lower tabs the radiator slides into.

I had to pry on one of them to get clearance just to get the radiator seated. Noticed afterwards the opposite side was too wide by about a mm. Rolled up some electrical tape and wedged it into the gap. Was mainly concerned about vibration and rattle.

The bigger issue was damage to my core support by whoever was in there before me. They mangled the hole for the upper radiator tab on the driver's side so badly it didn't want to stay locked in place.

Did yours come all the way unclipped at the bottom?

 

[DIB's]

Just a quick question from somebody who's still on the stock IC, but...

Aren't Wagner IC's expensive as fuck-all?

 

[AdamSheikh]

Just a quick question from somebody who's still on the stock IC, but...

Aren't Wagner IC's expensive as fuck-all?

I think I paid like $800 or so for mine a few years back. Supposedly the largest core for stock location.

Did it right after going IS38 and it made a huge difference in general performance consistency and hot weather performance. Just a suboptimal fit where the radiator clips into in other backside, which is admittedly disappointing.

 

[AdamSheikh]

Damn, that sucks. I have that IC and there was definitely was jankyness with those lower tabs the radiator slides into.

I had to pry on one of them to get clearance just to get the radiator seated. Noticed afterwards the opposite side was too wide by about a mm. Rolled up some electrical tape and wedged it into the gap. Was mainly concerned about vibration and rattle.

The bigger issue was damage to my core support by whoever was in there before me. They mangled the hole for the upper radiator tab on the driver's side so badly it didn't want to stay locked in place.

Did yours come all the way unclipped at the bottom?

I really need to get in there and take a closer look. I think it's only the top passenger side that falls out, but now you have me wondering if it's also out of the lower tab too for it to move backward into the belt.

 

[Diggs24]

Top left corner of my IE v1 also doesn't snap in. Hasn't been an issue in almost 10 years though.