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What did you do to your mk7 today?

Dog Dad Wagon

Ready to race!
Location
Colorado
Car(s)
19 Alltrack 6MT
6MT Alltrack SE, 5.8K miles

Just installed first round of performance upgrades on my new Alltrack. After having owned several MK7s and experimented with a pretty big array of upper and lower engine (dogbone) mount setups, I chose APR Pendulum Bar, APR Lower Steel Dogbone Insert, and 034 Upper Aluminum Dogbone insert on stock mounts (until they wear out). I also had APR Plus (87 octane low torque tune w/ warranty to 72k), the ECS bleeder block, and grey rokblokz mudflaps installed.

The mounts are fantastic for now, substantial increase in driveline stiffness with little to no NVH increase. I will likely replace the uppers with BFI when they die an early death, but CE Euro's 75A rubbers w/ lifetime warranty are interesting too. ECS Bleeder combined with the increased stiffness = dramatically improved shifting over stock. I realized I'm better at driving manual than it seemed (after having been in a DSG car for 3 years until April) - the car made it harder for me. It really seems like half the work has been taken out of it. The clutch just works. Not really sure how the delay valves help, they make it harder, and engagements less smooth/more wear on clutch.

The tune is everything I wanted from it. The low end torque boost coupled with the nonexistent turbo lag on the IS12 works really well around town, with AWD to put it all down even on Bridgestone OEM tires.

The grey rokblokz complement the frosted aluminum accents around the car, and round out an already well-appointed car. The Great Falls Green with the aluminum accents never ceases to wow me. I stare at my car when i approach it to get in, and as im walking away from it. every time.
 

projectTVMK7

Ready to race!
Location
Lompoke
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
Finally was able to get this rear valence from Aerofabb when they came back in stock! The included installation instructions are one of the best and most detailed I've ever seen!
side view edit.jpg
 

Dog Dad Wagon

Ready to race!
Location
Colorado
Car(s)
19 Alltrack 6MT
Installed the roc euro arm tonight, very surprised with how it indeed lowered NVH at idle, and works very well with my set up - bfi stage 1s/ stage 2 poly insert. Engine fells very solid at take off and shifts now.

very satisfied.


View attachment 186181

And why not add another shot showing the door stripes better 😀
View attachment 186180
hey man, if I were you I would mark a line on the fore 2 bolts that fasten to the trans, and check back underneath with your phone every couple days for any signs of loosening. The Roc-Euro bar is a very simple and effective design at mitigating the fore/aft sway of the powerplant, but it was designed by a one-man shop that lacks the resources for proper R&D.

i had a horror story a few years back when I drove 2 hours to have a high-end, $150/hr labor import tuner shop (they work on Mercs, Audi, BMW, Porsche, and even higher end cars than that) install 034 Upper Eng/Trans Mounts, 034 Lower Aluminum Insert, and Roc-euro pendulum bar. My car was otherwise bone-stock ECU/TCU and still under factory B2B warranty. I didn’t want or need more power, just some stage 1 mounts for improved driveline stiffness.

2 weeks later, I did a LC pull (remember - stock ECU/TCU so this was a 3K launch with only 210HP/258TQ) and something popped. I heard metal clackingwhenever the engine/trans would shift on the drive home. Got under it and the central bolt on the RE bar that bolts up to the edge of the trans casing (where it’s thinnest/weakest) was missing, and the trans casing had sheared. Half the threads were visible. The front bolt was barely attached either, and the threads had been stripped inside of it.
I replaced the RE bar with the OEM pendulum and removed the dogbone insert, but left the 034 upper mounts installed before bringing it in for a warranty claim. Naturally, VW sent a warranty claims specialist out to inspect the car before signing off on the replacement, and they determined the failure was caused by aftermarket tampering with the engine/trans mounts.

I fully understand the ole pay to play adage -it’s the risk we take tinkering with sophisticated, highly interconnected 3K+ pound machines. But I believed I was going the safest route I could, and it sucks when you go to painstaking efforts (like driving 2 hours away for simple install work, just to make sure the work would be done RIGHT) to avoid any issues, and then the worst case scenario occurs.

after I posted my horror story, many happy RE users checked their bars and MANY found that they had loosened/backedout to varying degrees, some even being close to putting them in the same situation I was in.

so take this story with whatever grain of salt you’d like, but for your own protection I strongly suggest marking and checking on the RE bolts periodically to verify they don’t back out over time
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
40k DSG & Oil service. Also got S3 PCV revision in the mail, hoping it helps with the infamous white smoke/oil surge issues on the track.

View attachment 186140
I did the BL revision after smoke every lap in turn 4 when running FIRM in reverse configuration. Ran this weekend and no smoke, so looking good so far.
 

El_bigote_AJ

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas
Car(s)
2019 GTI bunny
hey man, if I were you I would mark a line on the fore 2 bolts that fasten to the trans, and check back underneath with your phone every couple days for any signs of loosening. The Roc-Euro bar is a very simple and effective design at mitigating the fore/aft sway of the powerplant, but it was designed by a one-man shop that lacks the resources for proper R&D.

i had a horror story a few years back when I drove 2 hours to have a high-end, $150/hr labor import tuner shop (they work on Mercs, Audi, BMW, Porsche, and even higher end cars than that) install 034 Upper Eng/Trans Mounts, 034 Lower Aluminum Insert, and Roc-euro pendulum bar. My car was otherwise bone-stock ECU/TCU and still under factory B2B warranty. I didn’t want or need more power, just some stage 1 mounts for improved driveline stiffness.

2 weeks later, I did a LC pull (remember - stock ECU/TCU so this was a 3K launch with only 210HP/258TQ) and something popped. I heard metal clackingwhenever the engine/trans would shift on the drive home. Got under it and the central bolt on the RE bar that bolts up to the edge of the trans casing (where it’s thinnest/weakest) was missing, and the trans casing had sheared. Half the threads were visible. The front bolt was barely attached either, and the threads had been stripped inside of it.
I replaced the RE bar with the OEM pendulum and removed the dogbone insert, but left the 034 upper mounts installed before bringing it in for a warranty claim. Naturally, VW sent a warranty claims specialist out to inspect the car before signing off on the replacement, and they determined the failure was caused by aftermarket tampering with the engine/trans mounts.

I fully understand the ole pay to play adage -it’s the risk we take tinkering with sophisticated, highly interconnected 3K+ pound machines. But I believed I was going the safest route I could, and it sucks when you go to painstaking efforts (like driving 2 hours away for simple install work, just to make sure the work would be done RIGHT) to avoid any issues, and then the worst case scenario occurs.

after I posted my horror story, many happy RE users checked their bars and MANY found that they had loosened/backedout to varying degrees, some even being close to putting them in the same situation I was in.

so take this story with whatever grain of salt you’d like, but for your own protection I strongly suggest marking and checking on the RE bolts periodically to verify they don’t back out over time
Yeah I read and saw your thread. And also saw the other thread where 1 members bolts backed out before I purchased.

My car is quite modded...so I check on many parts of it pretty often Not to mention is on air suspension so I keep an eye on the underside often, also I put thread lock on the bolts (that RE has since changed due to the formers backing out like in your case) also my setup is MUCH stiffer than 034 mounts and an insert (I ran the o34 upper and a lower insert before I swapped to the stage 2 poly that’s in the car now) so all THREE mounting point and much more coordinated than say a set up that has a extremely stiff dogbone connection but then motor and trans mounts that allow lots n lots of play.

but yeah, I’ll keep an eye on it...
 
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Dog Dad Wagon

Ready to race!
Location
Colorado
Car(s)
19 Alltrack 6MT
Yeah I read and saw your thread. And also saw the other thread where 1 members bolts backed out before I purchased.

My car is quite modded...so I check on many parts of it pretty often Not to mention is on air suspension so I keep an eye on the underside often, also I put thread lock on the bolts (that RE has since changed due to the formers backing out like in your case) also my setup is MUCH stiffer than 034 mounts and an insert (I ran the o34 upper and a lower insert before I swapped to the stage 2 poly that’s in the car now) so all THREE mounting point and much more coordinated than say a set up that has a extremely stiff dogbone connection but then motor and trans mounts that allow lots n lots of play.

but yeah, I’ll keep an eye on it...
cool beans :) glad to hear you were aware before you made the decision You should be fine, especially with the threadlock.
 

Ridebjj

Drag Racing Champion
Location
lasVegas
I bought it!
I have the exact same one. I waited several months to find it too. I wanted the Sport and I wanted blue and that's that. When one popped up in Cali, I had it sent over straight away.

Well done. Now get modding.
 

BigCanoe

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Moncure, NC
Car(s)
2017 VW GTI Sport
I have the exact same one. I waited several months to find it too. I wanted the Sport and I wanted blue and that's that. When one popped up in Cali, I had it sent over straight away.

Well done. Now get modding.
I have the exact same one. I waited several months to find it too. I wanted the Sport and I wanted blue and that's that. When one popped up in Cali, I had it sent over straight away.

Well done. Now get modding.
I love the blue but this one is dark grey, carbon steel grey metallic. Pardon the bad dealership photos but its been raining since last night so no pics. The 17s are selling really quickly here, and the 18s are not even around much used. I lost out on two before getting this one. But I think I got the best one because the others were not sports!
 
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