Installed the roc euro arm tonight, very surprised with how it indeed lowered NVH at idle, and works very well with my set up - bfi stage 1s/ stage 2 poly insert. Engine fells very solid at take off and shifts now.
very satisfied.
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And why not add another shot showing the door stripes better
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hey man, if I were you I would mark a line on the fore 2 bolts that fasten to the trans, and check back underneath with your phone every couple days for any signs of loosening. The Roc-Euro bar is a very simple and effective design at mitigating the fore/aft sway of the powerplant, but it was designed by a one-man shop that lacks the resources for proper R&D.
i had a horror story a few years back when I drove 2 hours to have a high-end, $150/hr labor import tuner shop (they work on Mercs, Audi, BMW, Porsche, and even higher end cars than that) install 034 Upper Eng/Trans Mounts, 034 Lower Aluminum Insert, and Roc-euro pendulum bar. My car was otherwise bone-stock ECU/TCU and still under factory B2B warranty. I didn’t want or need more power, just some stage 1 mounts for improved driveline stiffness.
2 weeks later, I did a LC pull (remember - stock ECU/TCU so this was a 3K launch with only 210HP/258TQ) and something popped. I heard metal clackingwhenever the engine/trans would shift on the drive home. Got under it and the central bolt on the RE bar that bolts up to the edge of the trans casing (where it’s thinnest/weakest) was missing, and the trans casing had sheared. Half the threads were visible. The front bolt was barely attached either, and the threads had been stripped inside of it.
I replaced the RE bar with the OEM pendulum and removed the dogbone insert, but left the 034 upper mounts installed before bringing it in for a warranty claim. Naturally, VW sent a warranty claims specialist out to inspect the car before signing off on the replacement, and they determined the failure was caused by aftermarket tampering with the engine/trans mounts.
I fully understand the ole pay to play adage -it’s the risk we take tinkering with sophisticated, highly interconnected 3K+ pound machines. But I believed I was going the safest route I could, and it sucks when you go to painstaking efforts (like driving 2 hours away for simple install work, just to make sure the work would be done RIGHT) to avoid any issues, and then the worst case scenario occurs.
after I posted my horror story, many happy RE users checked their bars and MANY found that they had loosened/backedout to varying degrees, some even being close to putting them in the same situation I was in.
so take this story with whatever grain of salt you’d like, but for your own protection I strongly suggest marking and checking on the RE bolts periodically to verify they don’t back out over time