What coilover spring rates do you like/recommend for a daily driver that frequently sees twisty, hilly backroads?

[QuasiAutomotive]

First, let me start off with an apology. I know there are a million different discussions about this and trust me, I think I've read them all in the past 2 months. The only thing I've managed to convince myself of is that suspension is black voodoo magic and I already knew that beforehand. I know this is something that requires trying things out and dialing it in but I really would like to get this right the first or second time as I don't want to repeat the install an excessive number of times. I have a bad back; it would kill me.

The car in question is a 2017 GTI SE DSG with 28k miles. It currently has H&R OE Sport springs and Bilstein B8 dampers paired with a 24mm H&R rear sway bar and MOOG end links. You know, the usual.

I recently moved from Upstate NY where the roads are relatively good to Southeastern PA where I wouldn't bother to call them roads. As a example beyond potholes, the main thoroughfare by the new place is W shaped, as in every lane has two troughs that collect water when it rains. Bumpy troughs. I had been thinking about switching to coilovers for height adjustability in winter and to make the ride more compliant for my rear passengers (wife and daughter) with adjustable damping and the move brought all of that to the forefront. So I purchased a set of EQTs that are waiting for me in my garage in PA while I remodel the old house back in NY. For me, it was between the EQTs, ORTs, and FA 500s. ORT didn't respond to my messages and the FAs are a little more than I was looking for (in my mind anyway). I knew I could pick EQTs brain if I needed to so I went with them. I also purchased and plan to install the 034 Roll Camber Optimizers. I will be lowering the car about 1.5" (38mm).

I would like to upgrade to Swift, Hyperco, or Eibach springs (because I like nice things and learning) but I can't decide on spring rates. Or whether I should change to the 26mm H&R rear sway bar. I've also considered adjustable end links but I don't think I'm going to corner balance the car. Feel free to convince me otherwise unless they're going to be a noise fest. I would like the ride to be comfortable and compliant on boring, daily drives but keep the car neutral on twisty, hilly backroads that I frequently drive. I do not mind adjusting the damping as necessary. Neutral is the key term here; I can't have the back slide around on two lane roads with blind corners that are barely meant for one car. I do not wish to introduce oversteer unless it's close to the limit. I don't think that I'll ever see the track/autocross with this car and even if I did, I'd just be looking to have fun and not beat the snot out of everyone.

So what spring rates and length do you like or recommend for a daily driver that will frequently see fun drives along twisty, hilly backroads? Should I go with a more aggressive rear sway bar? Perhaps an adjustable one? Should I go for adjustable end links (I assume not)? Teach me, please. I'm currently leaning toward Swift 7" springs that are 10k front and 8k rear with no rear sway bar change but I can't convince myself.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

My dude, you are asking for too much tbh.

If you want compliance with bad roads, none of the tuner shocks will be any good.

More spring will not necessarily help you either, but I will say that with OEM front springs, I like more rear spring, as it keeps the rear from porpoising from bumps, but you will need more rear shock rebound to deal with the increased spring rate.

"Upgrading" to those other springs is not an upgrade, it's basically just wound metal. Don't overthink this part.

What really livens up the GTI is more front camber, and adjusting the alignment away from the factory rear-toe-in.

For starters, I would zero front and rear toe, or maybe just a slight bit of front toe-in, for higher speed stability.

As for sway bars, a front bar is more useful in reducing camber loss due to body roll. The OEM rear bar is already enough. Once you start picking up the rear tire, which you can easily with an upgraded bar, more rear bar just makes the rear more twitchy and unpredictable.

It's better to use rear-toe to change the rear's behavior.

 

[QuasiAutomotive]

My dude, you are asking for too much tbh.

If you want compliance with bad roads, none of the tuner shocks will be any good.

More spring will not necessarily help you either, but I will say that with OEM front springs, I like more rear spring, as it keeps the rear from porpoising from bumps, but you will need more rear shock rebound to deal with the increased spring rate.

"Upgrading" to those other springs is not an upgrade, it's basically just wound metal. Don't overthink this part.

What really livens up the GTI is more front camber, and adjusting the alignment away from the factory rear-toe-in.

For starters, I would zero front and rear toe, or maybe just a slight bit of front toe-in, for higher speed stability.

As for sway bars, a front bar is more useful in reducing camber loss due to body roll. The OEM rear bar is already enough. Once you start picking up the rear tire, which you can easily with an upgraded bar, more rear bar just makes the rear more twitchy and unpredictable.

It's better to use rear-toe to change the rear's behavior.

The main reason for my concern is that when I bought the set of coilovers, the default springs were 8k front and 5k rear which I know (or at least think) aren't going to be sufficient. So I started researching. However, due to feedback, they changed the default rates to 9k/7k right after I bought them and before they shipped. So I'll reach out and see which they sent me since I don't have the option of looking. If I have the 9/7, I may just install those first and see if I like it. (Update: It is the 9/7.)

And the new place in PA isn't far from AWE so I was going to take it to them or someone else for a proper alignment. I assumed to go about -1.5° to -2° camber in front but honestly I was just going to let someone who knows more than me sort it out. I have read about going close to zero toe to get the rear to rotate.

I can rent a lift to do the front sway bar and I will if it's going to make that much of a difference but I have no idea what thickness to pair with the already installed 24mm rear. Thoughts? And if I'm dropping the subframe, I'm doing control arms at the same time because why the hell not?

Side note and random complaint to no one in particular: why do I never get alerts?

 

[SouthFL_Mk7.5]

If dropping subframe go ahead and do the LCA’s and install a subframe deadset kit when putting things back together.

I echo the above with added negative camber up front to liven the car up. I do run a tad bit of toe out up front and zero toe in back and run a smallish Superpro 22mm rear swaybar on full stiff setting. Car is alive.

 

[QuasiAutomotive]

If dropping subframe go ahead and do the LCA’s and install a subframe deadset kit when putting things back together.

I echo the above with added negative camber up front to liven the car up. I do run a tad bit of toe out up front and zero toe in back and run a smallish Superpro 22mm rear swaybar on full stiff setting. Car is alive.

I was definitely going to replace the hardware while in there. Didn't know they made kits with goodies. Thank you.