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Wastegate Actuator Adjustment

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
That's what I thought too but I've been getting the defective batch of them 🙄 Hopefully this 3rd one actually works this time, I'm not having the best of luck 😅
I've got to give this a try. I get fairly consistent overboost code on my fcp IS38. It happens mostly when really punching it in 3rd or 4th. Basically, at any point when it happens, I could simultaneously be given a bunch of tickets.

The voltage was on the low side, about 3.3x right out of the box, but it passed adaptation 1st try. I remember asking here if I should leave it and I think the answer was yes.

Iirc, it was fine with the first tune, which was for 91. But the problems started after switching to an e48 tune.

Not sure what else to do besides running logs while making it throw the code and then hoping for help from the tuner? Or I suppose I could drive like a wanker less often.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
I've got to give this a try. I get fairly consistent overboost code on my fcp IS38. It happens mostly when really punching it in 3rd or 4th. Basically, at any point when it happens, I could simultaneously be given a bunch of tickets.

The voltage was on the low side, about 3.3x right out of the box, but it passed adaptation 1st try. I remember asking here if I should leave it and I think the answer was yes.

Iirc, it was fine with the first tune, which was for 91. But the problems started after switching to an e48 tune.

Not sure what else to do besides running logs while making it throw the code and then hoping for help from the tuner? Or I suppose I could drive like a wanker less often.
Whose tune? And isn't E48 pushing it to on a HPFP? I'm not that knowledgeable about E but I know at a certain percentage it's the LPFP you need. If this is wrong someone please correct me.
 

Ridebjj

Autocross Champion
Location
lasVegas
Whose tune? And isn't E48 pushing it to on a HPFP? I'm not that knowledgeable about E but I know at a certain percentage it's the LPFP you need. If this is wrong someone please correct me.
I have an upgraded autotech hpfp.
 

El_bigote_AJ

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas
Car(s)
2019 GTI bunny
Yes you need to log it while it happens - I’m betting it’s related to your untracked down boost leak - IMO.

While I know that you did everything to search it out, but the target VS actual boost was always off , and boost leaks have been known to cause over-boost conditions because they over spin the turbo. In that scenario you won’t get an overboost at max boost cause it’s already spinning at full speed , but at partial boost the turbo is in a situation where its spinning faster than it needs to be for XX boost.
 

SilverMK7

Go Kart Newbie
Location
United States
Car(s)
MK7 GTI
I've got to give this a try. I get fairly consistent overboost code on my fcp IS38. It happens mostly when really punching it in 3rd or 4th. Basically, at any point when it happens, I could simultaneously be given a bunch of tickets.

The voltage was on the low side, about 3.3x right out of the box, but it passed adaptation 1st try. I remember asking here if I should leave it and I think the answer was yes.

Iirc, it was fine with the first tune, which was for 91. But the problems started after switching to an e48 tune.

Not sure what else to do besides running logs while making it throw the code and then hoping for help from the tuner? Or I suppose I could drive like a wanker less often.
I would first make sure, unless you're tracking the car have your max psi set by the tuner to 24lbs - 25lbs of boost to eliminate any overboost error. My car doesn't like 3.3v no matter if I'm driving carefully or flooring it will throw the epc if I let off after 3k rpms and when I'm flooring it at 3.3v set, it feels a smidge faster than a stock GTI. You said you didn't have any issues until you switched tunes but just to put it out there my FCP IS38 it seems to like 3.7v better and provides more of a punch, that is until I get the code. I've decided to hold out and get an HPA IS38 because of the increased reliability, the preset upgraded actuator and the upgraded wastegate to eliminate wherever my issue is there, as well as a new tuner that will tune based on what I want and not what he thinks I want. I would also check for any boost leaks, make sure your charge pipes haven't slipped lose and try pulling the actuator out and seeing if it retracts itself.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
Is that not correct? I've seen that advice posted here a few times
Wastegate should be 3.5-3.6 volts. You are still getting an EPC light. So until you or your tuner solve the EPC changing turbos won't make any difference. I would not get the HPA IS38 especially for reliability since you already have a lifetime warranty with the FCPEuro IS38.
 

SilverMK7

Go Kart Newbie
Location
United States
Car(s)
MK7 GTI
Wastegate should be 3.5-3.6 volts. You are still getting an EPC light. So until you or your tuner solve the EPC changing turbos won't make any difference. I would not get the HPA IS38 especially for reliability since you already have a lifetime warranty with the FCPEuro IS38.
You're right about the 3.5-3.6 volts however I've seen some that can be fine sitting at 3.2 volts and not adapted at all, it seems to vary. My tuner said he thinks my problem is that the wastegate was binding which I had previously verified the same day I checked for boost leaks that it wasn't. All he's saying now is it's a hardware issue. I'll do the wiring the same time I do the turbo. Even if the wiring, the turbo or the wastgate isn't the cause (which would be a head scratcher) I can have piece of mind having a preset actuator and better engineered components. I've also been eyeing the TPC20BB which claims to test the actuator before they ship but nothing about an upgrade on the actuator itself. But, going that route and doing it myself I can have the ease of adjusting it off the car.

The lifetime warranty is great, that's the main reason why I bought it but I've read nothing but people having problems with the IHI wastegate during the cold months bending, the HPA is engineered to ensure that does not happen. Being from the northern region it made sense for me and to not have to replace the turbo every year, it would be worth it.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
You're right about the 3.5-3.6 volts however I've seen some that can be fine sitting at 3.2 volts and not adapted at all, it seems to vary. My tuner said he thinks my problem is that the wastegate was binding which I had previously verified the same day I checked for boost leaks that it wasn't. All he's saying now is it's a hardware issue. I'll do the wiring the same time I do the turbo. Even if the wiring, the turbo or the wastgate isn't the cause (which would be a head scratcher) I can have piece of mind having a preset actuator and better engineered components. I've also been eyeing the TPC20BB which claims to test the actuator before they ship but nothing about an upgrade on the actuator itself. But, going that route and doing it myself I can have the ease of adjusting it off the car.

The lifetime warranty is great, that's the main reason why I bought it but I've read nothing but people having problems with the IHI wastegate during the cold months bending, the HPA is engineered to ensure that does not happen. Being from the northern region it made sense for me and to not have to replace the turbo every year, it would be worth it.
I can't imagine how the HPA wastegate is engineered any differently. If your wastegate is adjusted properly and the tuner says it isn't the tune there's another different reason you're getting the EPC light. It can be tricky to diagnose. Who is your tuner?

https://mechanicbase.com/engine/epc-light/
 

SilverMK7

Go Kart Newbie
Location
United States
Car(s)
MK7 GTI
I can't imagine how the HPA wastegate is engineered any differently. If your wastegate is adjusted properly and the tuner says it isn't the tune there's another different reason you're getting the EPC light. It can be tricky to diagnose. Who is your tuner?

https://mechanicbase.com/engine/epc-light/
If you go to their website and find the HPA OEM+ IS38 it shows you everything they've done differently, I've attached the list here too. It definitely has had me running around, and I have sneekytuned. You've provided me a link before in my fourm, I've tried pretty much everything. I had some luck after I swapped the DV out and put the stock air box in, it was short lived though.
 

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