Where is that oil going then? I will tell you I'm not seeing consumption at the dipstick and I'm not getting clouds of smoke anymore.
7
Warning, OIL STARVATION
- Thread starter Euro Tech
- Start date
Where is that oil going then? I will tell you I'm not seeing consumption at the dipstick and I'm not getting clouds of smoke anymore.
It's the stupid blue passages on the stock system that the catch can doesn't cover. They are only open when off throttle however and close when you go into boost. It could just be my driving style but I've had issues with no oil in a regular CC and still getting small amounts of smoke.
edit - I also believe that these passages contribute to carbon build up, as when cruising down the highway off boost all the crankcase gasses are still going right to your valves
edit - I also believe that these passages contribute to carbon build up, as when cruising down the highway off boost all the crankcase gasses are still going right to your valves
It's very possible it's a combination of track, tire you run, and driving style. I'm pretty certain I can intentionally provoke smoke in some corners with BL if I wanted too, but it certainly wouldn't be the fast way around those corners. BM smoked all the time.
And it's not that I'm a great driver, I'm mediocre, but I have access to a professional driver that autocrosses and does TTs in the car too. And he's stupid fast. Still not seeing consumption or smoke with him driving now either.
Could be we're on 200tw and you're on stickier tires, have more negative camber, tighter tracks, etc...
That's why everyone has to find a solution that works for them. With my setup, tracks and drivers, BL has worked extremely well.
Yea my driving style is far from great and I think a bunch of my issues were due to me quickly going from full throttle to full brake and not very smoothly. It also seems like different oil brands affect the amount of smoke as well. I seemed to have a lot more issues with Mobil 1 over Castrol.
If I wasn't making high boost I would probably switch back to the BL just to avoid a few evap issues I've been having with a full plate system. I'm hoping the APR system with the extra passage open helps mitigate this.
I do now think that If you are not hybrid or bigger, the BL plate is your best bet. I am on the fence still though if a baffled oil pan does anything.
If I wasn't making high boost I would probably switch back to the BL just to avoid a few evap issues I've been having with a full plate system. I'm hoping the APR system with the extra passage open helps mitigate this.
I do now think that If you are not hybrid or bigger, the BL plate is your best bet. I am on the fence still though if a baffled oil pan does anything.
Agreed on the oil pan. I still might do it, because I think it increases oil capacity. More capacity still with an oil cooler. Doesn't seem like a bad thing to me.
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Yeah, I'm all I've the place as to which direction to go.
Aux rad or a real triple pass radiator, but then there's possible fitment issues with stock location IC, which I'm required to run in STH and TT4.
It's too many decisions to make without enough data.
Mini7
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTi Sport PP
Please share your Aux radiator parts list. I’d like to compare notes on the research I’ve done.
Im hoping that adding a 19-row Setrab will get my oil and coolant temps in line. Going to add Verus hood vents to help evacuate under hood heat/air to aid cooling. If that’s not enough I will likely add the Aux radiator but install the
larger CSF unit.
With you guys on adding oil capacity to aid in the cooling effort. Figure the aluminum will hold up better to any highway shrapnel…..I don’t want to prove that out. My racing line CC has prevented any smoke screen on track but has started to collect more since I went to APR Stg1 and gotten faster. I expect that to increase now that I’ve gone to an IS38.
Looking to give the Amsoil 5W30 a try As it’s meant to hold up better at high temps.
Im hoping that adding a 19-row Setrab will get my oil and coolant temps in line. Going to add Verus hood vents to help evacuate under hood heat/air to aid cooling. If that’s not enough I will likely add the Aux radiator but install the
larger CSF unit.
With you guys on adding oil capacity to aid in the cooling effort. Figure the aluminum will hold up better to any highway shrapnel…..I don’t want to prove that out. My racing line CC has prevented any smoke screen on track but has started to collect more since I went to APR Stg1 and gotten faster. I expect that to increase now that I’ve gone to an IS38.
Looking to give the Amsoil 5W30 a try As it’s meant to hold up better at high temps.
From one of my old posts. Everything here matches up and can be bought except, a 6in generic coolant line. VW for some reason only sells it as a kit for the entire upper rad hose assembly.
Found a coolant diagram on some Russian site that is somehow 10x better than the VWoA official parts diagrams.
Confirmed from ROW part diagrams these are the correct parts.
The right side radiator simply acts as an extension of the center radiator, with coolant flowing splitting off from the upper radiator inlet and merging back in into the coupling at the water pump
Right Side Rad - Prices for new OEM parts from https://www.audiusaparts.com/
Air duct - 5G0117334 - 20
Water pump coupling - 5Q0-122-291-CT - 25
Lower radiator coupling - 5Q0-122-291-DS - 116, This comes with a new temp sensor hence the high price. I have found ones on eBay for 60 dollars, but I am still looking for one without the sensor
Mounting bracket - 5Q0121093FD - 65. There are several different revisions/styles of this. This is the most recent as well as the cheapest.
The actual radiator - L&R ALUMINUM AUXILIARY RADIATOR - 150, message the seller and ask for just one, sold as two for 284.
Water hose - 5Q0-121-051-K - 20
Water hose - 5Q0-121-101-N - 27
Cross tube - 5Q0-121-070-AP - 35
Gromets for the bracket 4D0-317-867-A 2x - 12
Nut for the bracket N90761103 - 2x - 2
Bolt for the bracket + washer N10471802 - 2 | N90225901 like 30c lol
Washer for bolt N90225901 - 1
Hose clamps N-906-870-01 - 3x - 9
Hose clamps N-906-869-02 2x -9
Generic bolt for hard-line N90817003 - 1
Found a coolant diagram on some Russian site that is somehow 10x better than the VWoA official parts diagrams.
Confirmed from ROW part diagrams these are the correct parts.
The right side radiator simply acts as an extension of the center radiator, with coolant flowing splitting off from the upper radiator inlet and merging back in into the coupling at the water pump
Right Side Rad - Prices for new OEM parts from https://www.audiusaparts.com/
Air duct - 5G0117334 - 20
Water pump coupling - 5Q0-122-291-CT - 25
Lower radiator coupling - 5Q0-122-291-DS - 116, This comes with a new temp sensor hence the high price. I have found ones on eBay for 60 dollars, but I am still looking for one without the sensor
Mounting bracket - 5Q0121093FD - 65. There are several different revisions/styles of this. This is the most recent as well as the cheapest.
The actual radiator - L&R ALUMINUM AUXILIARY RADIATOR - 150, message the seller and ask for just one, sold as two for 284.
Water hose - 5Q0-121-051-K - 20
Water hose - 5Q0-121-101-N - 27
Cross tube - 5Q0-121-070-AP - 35
Gromets for the bracket 4D0-317-867-A 2x - 12
Nut for the bracket N90761103 - 2x - 2
Bolt for the bracket + washer N10471802 - 2 | N90225901 like 30c lol
Washer for bolt N90225901 - 1
Hose clamps N-906-870-01 - 3x - 9
Hose clamps N-906-869-02 2x -9
Generic bolt for hard-line N90817003 - 1
Mini7
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTi Sport PP
Awesome!! Thank You for this.
One of the concerns I had was whether the std GTi water pump would work. But having the water pump coupling adapter clears that up.
One of the concerns I had was whether the std GTi water pump would work. But having the water pump coupling adapter clears that up.
jmason
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Frederick, MD
Agree on bumper mod. I was wondering however that if you disconnect the fog lights, will that throw an error? Or do you just tie them up out of the way? Also, can't you just buy the R fender liner?
I got an A3 so I'm planning on just dremelling out gaps in the lower grill insert, no fogs to worry about. You can either cut openings in your stock liner or buy the S3/R liners.
You would probably have to do some coding in VCDS for the fogs not to throw an error. I had a rear fog bulb burn out and it threw a message on the dash.
You would probably have to do some coding in VCDS for the fogs not to throw an error. I had a rear fog bulb burn out and it threw a message on the dash.
I've been working on a VCDS SAI delete so that the readiness monitor is removed, so emission checks ignore it. Hopefully, if it works we can remove the clunky SAI system and for DSG users run the second AUX cooler which should help significantly with DSG temps, on a track.
edit - Even non-DSG users can adapt the second cooler in as it does just slot into the coolant circuit, it would require a few more parts and some more effort, however.
edit - Even non-DSG users can adapt the second cooler in as it does just slot into the coolant circuit, it would require a few more parts and some more effort, however.