VW Golf MK7 Estate, GT spec, Tungsten Silver, 1.4TSI

[golfdave]

So I finally got to the bottom of why my steering was feeling a bit "off"....


The“46G7” update for the EPB, I had back in October at the service.....I missed an alteration that they did...

Adaptions channel in the 03 ABS module..."expand diff" command line was set to "weak" whereas before I had it set to "medium".

I had also mistakenly reset the DSR (Driver Steering Recommendation" in the coding section of "44 Steering Assist" to inactive, or unticked. This throws up error codes & in combination with the above "weak" setting the car felt light, then heavy & out of sorts....& I just blamed it on the winter tyres...

Today the roads were wet, & it was just warm enough for the rain to not form snow/sleet…& the car felt soooooo much better, gripped & direct input/output correct feel to the steering ...well for me anyway!..

so happy chappie!!!...

 

[golfdave]

I’ve been a bit quiet on here regarding my car as I have been involved with various other business matters which have taken up loads of time! Does this mean I have done very little to my car??. NOPE!!

In brief:-

Research & purchase of two aftermarket items to install, one of which went back as it doesn’t fit 100%.
Research & purchase of two VAG parts (for problem solving retro-fits) which both fit, one after some modification.
Cambelt with tensioners & Auxiliary belt change & MOT at dealers.
Oil change & thorough inspection service by myself.
Swap onto the winter alloys.

I’ll be doing write ups of the above soon!

Still loving the car......….& its 5yrs old now!!…….

 

[golfdave]

August 2019

I have always wanted a rear strut brace which connects the top of the rear suspension towers/wheel arches as in my opinion this will reduce body flex in the estate more than a strut brace lower down which just connects the luggage points together (i.e. Eurocode). I also did not want the ones which require riv-nuts to be installed & bits of trim cut (several brands). So when VW Racingline announced their nice rear strut brace for the MQB MK7 Golf which they stated would fit the MK7 Golf Estate with no trimming, cutting etc., I ordered one ASAP!

Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the top horizontal bar to fit between the sidewalls of the boot unless I was prepared to use what I would consider excessive force, or remove a section of the carpet sidewall trim!!

I sent it back to the tuning shop I bought it from & they gave me a full refund. This is now the third time I have purchased aftermarket parts designed to fit the MQB MK7 Golf Estate from well-respected companies, & I have ended up sending them back!! How difficult is it to do proper R & D???

To save repetition, I include a link below to the section in the thread where I start posting the information regarding it not fitting & go into detail why it would not fit & include photos etc.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54460&page=3

 

[golfdave]

September & October 2019
Part 1

I have for the past few years suffered from the occasional "rolling log" noise from the rear of the car. This noise has been reported by other MK7 Golf owners in various countries especially with the estate version. However I found a post on a Russian forum in which they retro-fit a harmonic damper from the current Audi A3 saloon. I ordered the part from the local Audi dealers but the screw studs looked "wrong". Still I decided to fit it & one of the screw studs snapped in half! Had to wait 2 weeks for a free replacement from Germany! Since fitting it...the difference in noise from the rear!!!...?

All details in the "how to guide" below:-

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...rmonic-damper-from-the-audi-a3-saloon.369369/

 

[dr_mat]

FWIW we had the same noise from the rear as described elsewhere as "rolling log". We had the dealer replace the rear shocks (twice) under warranty and to be honest I didn't believe it would, but broadly it has fixed the problem. I think I hear something similar from time to time but it's nowhere near as prevalent as it was. Or maybe the car now rattles elsewhere enough to mask it? Hard to say ..

 

[golfdave]

FWIW we had the same noise from the rear as described elsewhere as "rolling log". We had the dealer replace the rear shocks (twice) under warranty and to be honest I didn't believe it would, but broadly it has fixed the problem. I think I hear something similar from time to time but it's nowhere near as prevalent as it was. Or maybe the car now rattles elsewhere enough to mask it? Hard to say ..

I have it.. HAD it occasionally on certain roads....& have re-driven over those roads at the same speed & its not doing it any more! I'm on the original Factory Sachs dampers which have had 3 MOT inspections by different people, let alone me inspecting it searching for the noise! In one of the threads I link to in the "how to guide" people had swapped to Bilstein dampers which cured it...then it came back after 2,000miles after the dampers/top mounts had bedded in...

All details in the How to guide....its a design flaw in the rear sub frame (since MK5) which they made a solution for (since MK5), but the bean counters said NO to fitting it...

 

[golfdave]

October 2019
Part 2

Finally revisited an OEM modification that I knew about. Unfortunately it requires some "eyeballing" for a fit, but until we know what is on the MK8 Golf/MK4 Octavia etc then this will do. I give you "How to retro-fit the VW Tiguan front subframe cover mod".

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...ubframe-cover-from-the-vw-tiguan-2016.370077/

 

[golfdave]

October 2019
Part 3

My “Service” time!!

That’s the car 5yrs old now!! First of all, time for me to do my parts of the service, so that’s an oil, & oil filter change, using an OEM VAG oil filter, & Castrol Edge Titanium FST 0W40 (which is VW502 00 approved), like I did last year. The Mann “FreciousPLus” cabin pollen filter, that I fitted 1yr ago, I just brushed & hoovered out, as it was still ok as not “black”, or even “light grey” & was under the mileage replacement interval.

The ITG engine filter, I thoroughly washed & re-oiled using ITG’s own cleaner & “road” grade oil. Although the filter looked ok, the amount of fine dust that was washed out was quite something!! The re-oiling took a bit longer to do as I followed their instructions, but the oil had not soaked the whole way through, so I re-oiled it differently, & achieved a much thorough oiling, without over saturation! Their oil actually dries onto the foam & remains semi-sticky!

I also did the usual full electric function check of windows up & down, lights, switches, headlights, indicators, horn, etc, etc., & a complete VCDS scan, no fault codes at all, so the earlier problems with the MOST optical bus I have obviously fixed just by unplugging & re-plugging all connections!!

Also, I carried out a full clean inside & out & the G-techniq crystal black serum ceramic coating is holding up well for 5yrs of age! Vacuumed the inside also, & wiped all internal surfaces down with cleaner, then warm water & dried etc. Also applied rubber/trim stuff to all the door rubber seals, & window seals. Again all G-techniq stuff used in cleaning etc the car as I have since I got the coating done 5yrs ago!

I noticed that the electric folding wing mirrors have started to sound “rough” when they fold. So, I removed the painted cover caps, which is easy to do by positioning the glass looking down, then use a long plastic trim removal tool to unclip the two cover tabs behind the top area of the glass. Unfortunately, the first one I did, the cover pinged off with such force to flew about 6ft away & landed on the bare concrete floor!!...arrrrgggghhhh!! Thankfully it was all ok without any scratches, so that’s the G-techniq coatings passing the test!! I cleaned & coated the mating surfaces in the joint where the mirror swivels, & around the post inside, then sprayed white lithium grease up into the post inner joint area. Much quieter now!!

Picture below, still with the summers on, & notice the skid tray & Tiguan subframe cover, in front of the covered tyre tree. These items will be done after the visit the dealer for the MOT & timing belt! I always remove the skid tray & re-fit the factory “half tray” to make the dealers job easier, & this allows me to inspect any work they have done!

 

[Mikeyd1]

Great write up mate?

 

[golfdave]

October 2019
Part 4

When I purchased the car, VW & the manufacturers of the timing belts had convinced themselves that the new type of toothed belt (I have the specifications) would last the lifetime of the car! I few years later they realised, after a few belts “going” & requiring whole new engines at cost to VW, that it would be wiser to replace these belts every 5yrs!!..So like they used to do!!

VWUK were doing a special offer to get the timing belts done & water pumps for a reduced price. Knowing that the water pumps on the EA211 engines (mine) are driven of the exhaust camshafts, & that they are also now part of one expensive block including the thermostats etc. I queried this with the parts & tech boys that I know at the dealership. Their reply was “no way is that part of the VWUK deal”. Basically VWUK & the “front of house” women at the dealers, were just repeating the marketing stuff verbatim! I double checked the small print on the VWUK website & found, as I suspected, my engine along with others were excluded, due to the water pumps not being driven off the timing belts & the cost of them!

(The reason that water pumps were changed at the same time as timing belts, is that over time the plastic impellors could break off the brass shaft causing it to stick/jamb solid, thus the main engine timing belt which also drove the pump would then jump/shred. This causing catastrophic engine damage as valves hit pistons. The current EA211 engines have the main coolant water pump placed on the opposite side of the engine from the timing belt, & driven off the exhaust camshaft via its own thin belt. If this breaks it will do NO damage, just the engine will get hotter & the ECU will force a shutdown)

So, I got them to replace the main timing belt, tensioner, roller, bolts (all one kit) & asked them to replace the auxiliary belt, as that has to be removed anyway. The invoice was stamped with “Volkswagen 5yr cambelt warranty”, & the total cost was £421.21. I also got them to carry out the yearly MOT which was due, & they only charged me £29.99.

The car passed the MOT with flying colours...as expected! The results are slightly worse than last years, but still very good!

The emissions results:-
Fast idle test (2500-3000rpm)
CO = 0.02% (0.20% Max. allowed) (0.00% last year)
HC = 11ppm (200ppm Max. allowed) (7ppm last year)
Lambda = 1.01 (0.97 - 1.03 allowed) (1.00 last year)

Natural idle test (450 - 1500rpm)
CO = 0.00% (0.30% Max. allowed) (same as last year)

When I got the car back home I swapped onto the winter alloy/tyres, re-fitted the main skid tray, fitted the Tiguan subframe tray, & sorted various other things out!

 

[golfdave]

November 2019

So what else?..

Well after dithering about this mod… I finally bit the bullet & bought the Dieselgeek “Superpin” for the gear stick shaft. Why the hesitation??....err… you have to remove the whole centre console from the car, & that’s a big job!! However, the Superpin has made the biggest difference, & it is the first gearstick modification I would recommend that you do! (please remember that I have done every other possible mod to the gearshift mech)

I would also recommend that whilst the gearstick etc is being dismantled that you also remove the rubbish gearstick shaft bushes & fit the Dieselgeek Delrin SHAFT gearstick shaft bushes (for spring on shaft under gaiter).

As an aside, I noted that the two rearmost big bolts that secure the rear of the centre console to the exhaust tunnel, were only hand tight..i.e. I could undo them with my bare fingers, & these are supposed to be torqued up!! I also found that I was missing two large bolts with speed nuts which secure the centre console to the exhaust tunnel, with one down each side, about 8inches from the rear bolts.

Really!!???...I mean WTF regarding quality control!!??...was my car a Friday night special, or was it just the trainee who was working on that particular “station” at the factory was a total idiot??...

Anyway, my centre console no longer creaks & the inside of the car is much quieter!!

I will do a “How to Guide” on removing the centre console, & will include other pointers on fixing things in this area!

 

[golfdave]

January 2020

Long term what next??
When I purchased the car, I intended to keep it as long as my previous car, which was 14yrs. The release of the Mk8 (& estate), has confirmed that I have no desire to buy a new one unless my Mk7 is unfortunately/tragically written off in an accident!

So now I’ve got the current noises/rattles sorted, & most possible retro-fits completed, what next for the car? Basically, it’s now down to long term maintenance, & replacement/upgrading of any parts that wear out, as I have done to my previous cars.


List of possible future modifications

MIB2/2.5 PRO upgrade:-
If..& I do mean “IF” my head unit or screen goes wrong, then I will upgrade, as mine is a MIB1 basic sat nav (Discover) system with Dynaudio. Unfortunately, my MIB1 Dynaudio amp, won’t work 100% with the MIB2/2.5 system as apparently VW changed things! So, I would require a new head unit, new screen, & new amp! The fitting & VCDS coding I can do easy, but it’s the component protection removal etc. which I don’t have the license or equipment for! I could just fit an aftermarket Alpine, Pioneer, or Kenwood unit but they don’t integrate 100% with all the existing OEM stuff. There are a few well known legit companies who can do the whole install, coding & remove all the component protection etc, just they are at the other end of the country compared to me! Anyway I’ll cross this bridge when I come to it!!

Winter alloys refurb:-
Most alloy wheels don’t survive the winters with the road salt we have here, & the paint was starting to bubble on the inside of the rim after 3yrs! That is, what paint there is as its just basecoat grey on the inside with the clear lacquer on top, the silver sparkle is only sprayed into the front face. Also, the rear corner/edge of each of the spokes has a sharp acute angle & basically paint doesn’t adhere to it very well! So, I know a couple of local firms which will strip/walnut blast the alloys, fully colour powder coat, followed by a full clear UV/protection paint lacquer top coat. So really tough & durable!

Brake callipers refurb:-
As per usual the normal brake callipers are just cast “grey” metal, & are given a basic zinc plating, so they rust after the first year in our weather/conditions! I have on previous cars, removed the callipers, stripped them down & painted them, usually black, & rebuilt with new seals etc.. I will do the same, but also smooth them down, i.e. removing all the sharp edges from the casting etc., so that the paint adheres better! I may consider sending them off to do done, if I don’t feel like doing them myself!

Front hub carriers (cast iron) refurb:-
Either stripped, smoothed, & painted as above, or replaced with the alloy ones (which would then require 55mm dampers)

New dampers/springs:-
When these wear out, I’ll be replacing the springs with the same OEM factory “sports suspension” it came with. The dampers however, I will most likely replace with Koni “Active”, which are the newer version of the old “FSD” which I had on a previous car & it was very good!

New suspension bushes:-
I have on previous cars replaced everything with either “Superpro” or “Powerflex”. However, the only real benefit compared to OEM bushes is when the OEM either allows too much movement generally, or allows movement in the wrong “plane”. Having looked at all the bushes on the car (I have the multilink rear) the only bushes which in my opinion, require restricting, is the big rear bush on the front lower wishbone, & the front big bush on the rear control arm (under the rear seat). Now the Audi RS3 uses a pressed steel front lower wishbone, like my one but the rear bush has the voids filled in. This wishbone is also used on the Mk7 Golf CS/CCS, & Mk7.5 R, so would be a straight easy swap to save pressing bushes out. Or I can remove the bushes on my existing arm & fit Superpro, or Powerflex.

New exhaust rear back box:-
I’m still on the lookout for a stainless steel exhaust system for the car! The nearest is made by “Supersprint” but it looks like it’s for the torsion beam suspension, & I have the multilink! Anyway, the existing system is lasting quite well, so its better made than previous VAG car exhausts!


Anyway, here is a picture I took of the car last week just before I washed it. Our roads in winter are quite bad with grit, salt etc, & they ruin a car very easily! This being one of the reasons I like to add the under trays, & made certain I had the car ceramic coated!

 

[southpawboston]

How much salt do they use in Scotland? I didn't think it snows too often but do you get a lot of freezing rain? It seems that in the "rust belt" of the US the municipalities are addicted to it and apply more and more of it every year. They even spread it before a predicted snow storm and in the cities private businesses will dump 10 times as much as they need on the sidewalks. It not only destroys cars but shortens infrastructure life.

I usually spend more time spraying the underbody of my car, the suspension, exhaust and the wheel wells than I do on the exterior body work when washing the car to try to rinse away as must salt residue as possible.

 

[golfdave]

How much salt do they use in Scotland? I didn't think it snows too often but do you get a lot of freezing rain?

The councils up here over the past 20yrs have gotten into the idea of spreading more salt & not ploughing when/if there is snow....if no snow we get loads of black ice due to being a small island & the sea weather....loads of moisture during warm day..cold clear nights...et voila...black ice.....plus the farmers are active with huge tractors & the fields are water logged....farmers don't clear up after themselves, much,...so roads adjoining field gates/entrances are muddy as hell!...

 

[golfdave]

So with the current lock down I've been thinking about MODs ...AGAIN!!...

1. Will defo be going Stage 1 with a Revo 98RON map....

2. Which will require the OEM 98RON fuel fill flap sticker from the "R", part number 1K0 010 350 S

3. I might decide to stiffen up the dog bone mount very slightly with a Powerflex insert in the softest material, which is made for a diesel engine (I have petrol) & looking at my mount I'd need part number PFF85-830R. (Remember I had to return the badly fitting APR stainless steel insert 2yrs ago)

4. Seriously considering the Vektor Technik "data-display" as they have just released it for right hand drive mounting (UK/Aus/etc) (Remember I had to return the "Autopolar" device 2yrs ago due to its design flaws & they were still on software versions which were pre "Beta" & shouldn't have been publically released etc. etc.)

Thats a nice four figure sum to do the above....bugger!!...............

EDIT:- top two items crossed out as done September 2020