VW Golf MK7 Estate, GT spec, Tungsten Silver, 1.4TSI

[RS_MacD]

Yeah but your temps are tempered by an overall oceanic climate, even though you're farther north. Not sure where you are, but the 57th parallel includes the area around Aberdeen, so I plugged that city in (sorry for the Fahrenheit scale, but you get the message). Notice not only how much colder it gets here but also hotter! The winter-summer differential is much more dramatic.

View attachment 230581


View attachment 230582

And sure you get snow, but nothing like here. It's normal to get a foot of snow here in a single storm. And a big nor'easter can dump two feet.

As a Scottish fella who lives in Chicago - I can say that the higher latitude of Scotland is a fun talking point but doesn't translate to the extremities in weather temperature. In the US it's called the "rust belt" - they throw down grit like you wouldn't believe to try and tackle the freezing temps and the snow!

However, the roads in Scotland over winter are also salted loads as the OP said, so you're both likely quite close in terms of rust content. My 2015's subframe is definitely not a shade resembling black any more...

 

[golfdave]

Yeah but your temps are tempered by an overall oceanic climate, even though you're farther north. Not sure where you are, but the 57th parallel includes the area around Aberdeen, so I plugged that city in (sorry for the Fahrenheit scale, but you get the message). Notice not only how much colder it gets here but also hotter! The winter-summer differential is much more dramatic.

View attachment 230581




And sure you get snow, but nothing like here. It's normal to get a foot of snow here in a single storm. And a big nor'easter can dump two feet.

Aberdeen is about over 1hrs drive away from me & windier & more damp!.

Yeah we are "warmer", & yes we have not much snow by the coast, but you forget if the air temp is is around +3C you can get a frost on the ground..& we get loads of days which can be damp/raining during the day, & then the clouds clear for night, causing the temp to drop further & the ground gets frost & black ice like mad.....

If the temps are forecast to drop below about +2C the gritters are out....

I also do winter mountaineering & ski-ing, so that involves driving to the ski/mountain areas & over some of the hard & high road passes, so more grit. I mean where I live no snow, drive a few miles inland & 1ft of snow...& I've driven through cleared drifts 8ft deep up here & seen -16C on the car temp readout in the process in some winters (rare)

P.S....We may not have the snow blizzards like you do over there (well we do on the high road passes, been there done that), but we get loads of black ice on the roads. In the mountains we also get a lot of snow which has solid ice layers in & on it, very little "powder".....known locally as "Cairngorm concrete"...basically smack an ice axe into the snow & it bounces off......very sharp ski edges are required!!

P.P.S...I used to live in Ohio so I know what its like when the Artic winter storms come down across the Great Lakes & dump huge amounts of snow....

 

[southpawboston]

Aberdeen is about over 1hrs drive away from me & windier & more damp!.

Yeah we are "warmer", & yes we have not much snow by the coast, but you forget if the air temp is is around +3C you can get a frost on the ground..& we get loads of days which can be damp/raining during the day, & then the clouds clear for night, causing the temp to drop further & the ground gets frost & black ice like mad.....

If the temps are forecast to drop below about +2C the gritters are out....

I also do winter mountaineering & ski-ing, so that involves driving to the ski/mountain areas & over some of the hard & high road passes, so more grit. I mean where I live no snow, drive a few miles inland & 1ft of snow...& I've driven through cleared drifts 8ft deep up here & seen -16C on the car temp readout in the process in some winters (rare)

P.S....We may not have the snow blizzards like you do over there (well we do on the high road passes, been there done that), but we get loads of black ice on the roads. In the mountains we also get a lot of snow which has solid ice layers in & on it, very little "powder".....known locally as "Cairngorm concrete"...basically smack an ice axe into the snow & it bounces off......very sharp ski edges are required!!

P.P.S...I used to live in Ohio so I know what its like when the Artic winter storms come down across the Great Lakes & dump huge amounts of snow....

Ah ok then, so you know it both ways. Ohio gets it brutal. My inlaws live just below lake Ontario and they get twice the snow as Toronto. I guess you also have a lot less room for error with your narrow roads! One small slide and you're smacking into one of those picturesque stone walls.

 

[Cuzoe]

Time for 55mm struts and aluminum knuckles... or at least that's what I'm seeing .

 

[golfdave]

Ah ok then, so you know it both ways. Ohio gets it brutal. My inlaws live just below lake Ontario and they get twice the snow as Toronto. I guess you also have a lot less room for error with your narrow roads! One small slide and you're smacking into one of those picturesque stone walls.

We don't have many stone walls up here, that's mainly down in England in the Lake District & Peak District i.e. Cumbria & Yorkshire etc..

This was 21yrs ago, at 35mph in a 60mph zone, in my 4yr old VW Mk3 Polo (6N) which I had built to order...No ABS or traction control & the Pirelli P6000's with loads of tread on them & my skills couldn't avoid the "quick spin in the countryside" due to black ice....

 

[golfdave]

October 2021,
Part 2

The Main Service.

For starters the car’s 7yrs old now!! ….How time flies!!....

The timings of every 2, 4, or 5 years means next year will be a big service & this year there is only the oil change!! First of all, time for me to do my parts of the service, so that’s an oil, & oil filter change, using an OEM VAG oil filter, & Castrol Edge Titanium FST 0W40 (which is VW502 00 approved), like I did last year. I also inspected the Mann “FreciousPLus” cabin pollen filter, that I fitted last year.

I did the usual full electric function check of windows up & down, lights, switches, headlights, indicators, horn, etc, etc., & a complete VCDS scan, with the only fault being the very intermittent optical data bus which I thought I had solved a few years back??!!

I also decided to remove the electronic servo actuator for the turbo wastegate. (Charge Pressure Positioner V465). This to enable a through clean & re-grease of the pivot pin in the linkage between its rod/arm & the turbo wastegate arm.

Another item I decided to inspect was “G76 - the rear left vehicle level sender”. This is the plastic sensor with black & green plastic arms that is used to automatically lower the headlights when there is a heavy load in the boot of the car. These linkages seize resulting in the plastic arms breaking & a whole new unit is then required. The main reason for this being the ball & socket joins at the pivots getting dirt into them & the lower ball on the suspension arm being a basic metal & rusting! I just sprayed WD40 into the joints & twisted the arms around to free them. Then using a two-pronged trim removal tool separated the black arm from the lower ball joint. I then sanded the ball smooth & regreased & put it back together. In my case the lower joint had seized almost solid so I reckon it would have snapped if I had left it any longer!

Also, I carried out a full clean inside & out & the G-techniq crystal black serum ceramic coating is holding up well for 7yrs of age (besides a few stones chips to sort out!) Vacuumed the inside also, & wiped all internal surfaces down with cleaner, then warm water & dried etc. Also applied rubber/trim stuff to all the door rubber seals, & window seals. Again all G-techniq stuff used in cleaning etc the car as I have since I got the coating done 7yrs ago! Also did a “top up” water repellent to the paintwork, & various other cleaning was carried out!

The car passed the MOT with flying colours...of course! The results are the best ever!!!

The emissions results:-
Fast idle test (2500-3000rpm)
CO = 0.00% (0.20% Max. allowed) (0.00% last year)
HC = 4ppm (200ppm Max. allowed) (21ppm last year)

Lambda = 1.01 (0.97 - 1.03 allowed) (1.00 last year)

Natural idle test (450 - 1500rpm)
CO = 0.00% (0.30% Max. allowed) (same as last year)

 

[JCalado]

HI golfdave, read alot of your topics, any updates on the Golf? Have a hatchback with the same engine but 150cv and i'm always curious to see what you post.

 

[golfdave]

HI golfdave, read alot of your topics, any updates on the Golf? Have a hatchback with the same engine but 150cv and i'm always curious to see what you post.

No, not much been done...got to write up the guides on the mods I did last year...I mentioned them in a post on the previous page.....photos with all the undertrays off & the front doors off!!

It takes a bit to get the written stuff "logical"...been busy with other stuff...

 

[golfdave]

Reserved for previous work carried out late 2021 centre console USB ports

 

[golfdave]

Reserved for previous work carried out late 2021 front seat ISOfix bracket

 

[golfdave]

Reserved for previous work carried out late 2021front wing door jamb end panel modification & retrofit of MK7.5 version

 

[golfdave]

October 2022,

The Main Service.
Part 1

For starters the car’s 8yrs old now!! ….How time flies!!....

The timings of every 2, 4, or 5 years means this year was a big service!

First of all, time for me to do my parts of the service:-
Engine oil & oil filter change
Engine flush
New spark plugs
New cabin air filter
Gearbox oil change
Wash & reoil the ITG engine air filter.

Engine Oil:-
I decided to get the same engine oil as I have previously been using, Castrol Edge Titanium FST 0W40, which is VW502 00 approved. I change the oil every year which means I'm on a "Fixed" service so can use a VW "502 00" spec oil instead of a "504 00" flexible service specification oil which is usually a 5w30 grade! OEM oil filter & sump plug washer from the dealers parts dept. were also used. Every two years I also "flush" the engine oil out with "Wynn's" engine flush, & it was this year. So, I went on a nice 80+mile drive before doing the flush/oil change, so the engine was HOT!!!

Spark Plugs:-
Whilst the oil is draining & the engine still hot, its best to remove the coil packs & spark plugs as its easier. I change the spark plugs due to age (every 4yrs), even though they looked ok, showing light deposits of a grey/brown colour indicative of perfect combustion (as shown on the MOT emissions test results). I decided to install the same brand/type of spark plugs as before, Bosch double platinum “Y 5 KPP 332”. The much more expensive NGK “PZKER7B8EGS Laser Platinum” is basically a NGK copy of the Bosch & only a double platinum, even though some web info has it listed as “iridium”. Bosch designed this spark plug & NGK got the specs from Bosch! Remember to use the special VW silicon paste (G-052-565-A1) on the coil pack tips! I also note that the Bosch spark plugs now state made in Germany, whereas my previous set stated made in China!





Cabin Air Filter:-
Previously I have installed the top spec Mann “FreciousPlus” cabin pollen filter as its one of the best on the market. However, I decided not to replace it like for like, & instead fitted the mid-grade Mann “Activated carbon” cabin filter. The bio functional filters like the Mann “FreciousPlus” ideally require changing every year! As I don’t do that much milage, don’t have loads of allergen problems, & don’t live in either a big town or city, I don’t really have the use/cost justification for the fancy bio functional filters!

Gearbox Oil:-
VW doesn’t have a service interval for my gearbox, & therefore its “sealed for life”. However, I prefer to change it & use the old schedule of every 5yrs. Back in 2017 I drained out the factory oil & refilled with Fuchs Titan Sintofluid FE SAE 75w. This time I wanted to try a different oil. My initial choice, Castrol Transmax Manual V 75w80, wasn’t available anywhere in the UK, so I chose Millers Oils Motorsport CRX 75w NT+. This after a conversation with the tech dept at the place I was buying my oil from. I did contact Millers Oils tech dept before I bought the oil & asked them about the oil. They stated they do not send their motorsports oils off to be manufacturer approved & that it has similar characteristics as their VAG approved oil for my gearbox (Millers Oils XF Premium MTF 75w). Officially they don’t recommend the motorsports oils when they make an approved oil, so "use at your own risk" is the legal answer! However, I’ve used their motorsports range of gearbox oils in previous VAG cars with no ill effects, & this oil with the “nanoDrive” is designed to reduce friction in the gearbox, etc., etc. Considering the car is Revo stage 1-B tuned & the MQ250 gearboxes are a known weak link, using the best oil the protect the gearbox makes perfect sense!

Initial observations:- there is less noise in the cabin from the gearbox area, less noise when you really floor it in 3rd gear, & the car freewheels much more when you lift off the accelerator!!




Engine Air Filter:-
I have an ITG drop-in replacement panel filter which is washable. I wash this every two years & it was due this year! I prefer a washable filter, & yes, they take time to wash, dry, & then re-oil. However, they always seem to allow the engine to breath better! On previous cars I have had K&N, & Green Cotton brands, so when I chose a filter for this car, I decided to try ITG, which are based in the UK. The construction of ITG filters is different to both K&N, & Green Cotton, as ITG use a three layered foam, instead of a fabric between two layers of steel mesh. These "trifoam" filters are used in desert racing etc. & are motorsports proven. I have found that they are more "delicate" & require more care when washing them, & the awkwardness of the VAG air box & filter for this engine meant ITG had to make an aluminium plate to support the foam. This necessitating several thin strips of foam to seal the air gaps. These thin strips of foam tend to detach themselves from the aluminium plate when washing the filter!....hence my calling them "delicate"! Black automotive silicone, or gel type superglue suitable for foam, does the trick!

 

[golfdave]

October 2022,

The Main Service.
Part 2

Brake checks/stripdown:-
As I don’t drive the car much & live in a place there the roads are heavily salted/gritted in winter, rust eats the discs & suspension very quickly!! So very year I remove the calipers & pads, clean the discs & all the contact points between the pads/calipers. Then regrease the caliper slide pins with the correct TRW PFG110 grease, & then the pad/caliper contact points with Loctite LB8009 heavy duty grease. As I have an electric parking brake I again need to use VCDS to wind back the motors on the rear calipers!

The front discs, especially the drivers side (UK) were badly rusted on the inside face & the pads were worn more than the passenger side! This might be either the pads sticking in the calipers, or most likely the early signs of the piston sticking in the caliper due to the inner piston seal aging! This also showed up as a 16% imbalance on the brake test part of the MOT. Nothing to overly worry about & is common for a car of this age & “weather zone”….something to keep an eye on!

Regrease of the turbo wastegate actuator pivot:-
Again, every year as preventative maintenance, I remove the electronic servo actuator for the turbo wastegate. (Charge Pressure Positioner V465). This to enable a through clean & re-grease (use either VAG Hot Bolt paste, or Loctite LB8009 heavy duty grease) of the pivot pin in the linkage between its rod/arm & the turbo wastegate arm. This is a known problem where it seizes up & then the actuator fails! On refit the actuator requires a “initialise” with VCDS to move the actuator several times between its upper & lower stops. Logging the results whilst it does this shows that I was well within spec!

Cleaning the drain hose on the air intake duct:-
On my engine there is a drain hose with a one way blue rubber flap, this at the lowest point in the air intake hose just behind the slam panel box on the right side of the engine bay. This allows any water that gets into the intake to evacuate out before it gets sucked into the air box. I have never touched this since I bought the car in 2014, so decided to remove it & flush it out with water….good job I did as it was full of dirt & dead flys!.

Electrical checks:-
I did the usual full electric function check of windows up & down, lights, switches, headlights, indicators, horn, etc, etc., & a complete VCDS scan, with the only fault being “low battery remote 1” this being a low battery in my main key fob. I had replaced the batteries in all key fobs at the same time a few weeks back & the dash display had cleared, just the fault code had remained in the memory!

Cleaning:-
Also, I carried out a full clean outside & the G-techniq crystal black serum ceramic coating is holding up well for 8yrs of age (besides a few stones chips to sort out!)

I carried out a light clean of the inside as its kept clean anyway, but a more thorough clean will be carried out at a later date, along with application of rubber/trim stuff to all the door rubber seals, & window seals!!

 

[golfdave]

October 2022,

The Main Service.
Part 3

Dealer work:-

Brake fluid change:-
I don’t do the brake fluid changes myself anymore, mainly because its too fiddly on these cars to get it right first time (even using VCDS to activate the ABS unit). Also its better to have a proper “suction” type pressure bleeder, which I don’t have, only a “pressure” type bleeder!!

Annual UK MOT:-
The car passed the MOT with flying colours...of course! The results are the best ever!!!

The emissions results:-
Fast idle test (2500-3000rpm)
CO = 0.00% (0.20% Max. allowed) (0.00% last year)
HC = 2ppm (200ppm Max. allowed) (4ppm last year)
Lambda = 1.01 (0.97 - 1.03 allowed) (1.01 last year)
Natural idle test (450 - 1500rpm)
CO = 0.00% (0.30% Max. allowed) (same as last year)

The fact that since I got the car remapped in September 2020, the Hydrocarbon (HC) content has dropped from 21ppm (October 2019 MOT) down to 4ppm (October 2020 MOT) & now 2ppm, running on the same fuel as before, proves the mapping is resulting in a more complete burn of the fuel!! This being better for the environment & more green/eco!!


Maha-brake test results:-
(Left / right seated in car)
Front axle on summer tyres 2022:- 402kg / 337kg, 16% diff (25% max allowed)
Front axle on winter tyres 2018:- 311kg / 317kg, 2% diff

Rear axle on summer tyres 2022:- 252kg / 256kg, 2% diff (25% max allowed)
Rear axle on winter tyres 2018:- 239kg / 241kg, 1% diff

Parking brake on summer tyres 2022:- 210kg / 196kg, 7% diff (50% max allowed)
Parking brake on winter tyres 2018:- 197kg / 208kg, 5% diff

Car total weight
Summer tyres (half tank of fuel) 2022 = 1333Kg
Winter tyres (3/4 tank of fuel) 2018 = 1347kg

(VW state in the sales brochure that the “unladen weight” for my car is 1354kg which included the fuel tank 90% full, driver of 68kg, & 7kg of luggage).

The results for the rear axle & parking brake for the 2018 & 2022 years (I don’t have copies of the intervening years results) are similar to each other with the summer tyres generating slightly more braking force/grip. The imbalance on the front axle shows that I’ll have to sooner or later strip the front calipers down!

 

[golfdave]

October 2022,

The Main Service.
Part 4

Future work:-
The driver’s side UK (passenger side EU & NAR) top ball joint to damper on the front anti-roll bar drop link is weeping grease, from where I can’t determine 100%. It looks like the seal where the gaiter/boot joins the threaded rod for the nut. Unfortunately, when I purchased these “Meyle HD” drop links (in October 2018) one was already weeping as it had a very small hole in the boot, which looked like it was caught by the tooling that is used to place the blue circlip around the boot (I received a replacement). So, it could be that this one is also suffered the same fault, or my suspicion is that the ball joint is “pumping” the grease out as its at a strange angle & is under the most strain out of all the drop link ball joints!

Also the vertical seal that is on the rear doors, that the front door closes against, has corroded so badly that its deformed the seal & it won’t fit on the door properly! Basically, when they make the seal, the tubing is left open, this exposing the spring steel inside the grip section, & leading to rusting! Unfortunately, this vertical seal is a very small section of the huge one piece seal part that goes over the door & down the window glass, meaning you have to remove the inner & outer lower strips for the window & the inner door card!....

Whilst I have the rear door cards off to sort the above, I’ll also remove the door speakers & reseal them PROPERLY!...as the factory foam seal is known to fail, & is a well-documented fault on most VAG cars since 2000!!

Whilst I am sorting the rear doors out I might as well remove the door cards on the front doors & sort those speakers out also, as they have the same fault!

When I have the front door speakers out, I might as well replace the front door check straps (might replace with the Jetta? two stage ones) as my driver’s door one is rusting internally, & you can only get access with the door speaker removed!

See how things snowball!!.......”Avalanche! more like!!!!.....