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vortex/ mpi / rs3 brushless install gremlins/problem solving

Lurchalicious

Ready to race!
Location
NKY
Sorted the leak. Onto the LPFP.
 

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Lurchalicious

Ready to race!
Location
NKY
using the apr pressure tester i found all my leaks!

problem still with the lpfp, duty cycle is very high for the low amount of pressure being made. logs make it look like a retstriciton.

could stock lines really cause that amount of restriction? check valve? Im being told that i should have about 4x the pressure at the duty cycle the pump is at.

i removed the pump, found crud and dirt in the basket and sock; cleaned it out and ensured the ground was cleaned and connected. still no change it seems

next hypothesis is the fuel controller got hurt when the original fuse blew (10 amp) because the shop didnt swap it. should have done it myself but whatever, here we are.

i have a new controller and pump on the way from audi. can/has anyone been able to diagnose a bad control unit that still operates?
 

Rare Ara S3

Go Kart Champion
Location
Michigan
Car(s)
2017 Audi S3, GTI
using the apr pressure tester i found all my leaks!

problem still with the lpfp, duty cycle is very high for the low amount of pressure being made. logs make it look like a retstriciton.

could stock lines really cause that amount of restriction? check valve? Im being told that i should have about 4x the pressure at the duty cycle the pump is at.

i removed the pump, found crud and dirt in the basket and sock; cleaned it out and ensured the ground was cleaned and connected. still no change it seems

next hypothesis is the fuel controller got hurt when the original fuse blew (10 amp) because the shop didnt swap it. should have done it myself but whatever, here we are.

i have a new controller and pump on the way from audi. can/has anyone been able to diagnose a bad control unit that still operates?
That APR leak tester is a great tool.
how much was a new black controller ? I’m still running the silver one.
 

Lurchalicious

Ready to race!
Location
NKY
Found some boost leaks and fixed them. Obtained a new pump and controller

We are running stock fuel lines from the pump forward. There is a 5/16" T fitting that feeds the european OEM MPI rail (plastic one).


This is with just a new pump controller on the pump I originally installed

https://datazap.me/u/lurchalicious/log-1650904661?log=2&data=8-14-29-31
https://datazap.me/u/lurchalicious/log-1650904661?log=1&data=8-14-29-31
https://datazap.me/u/lurchalicious/log-1650904661?log=0&data=8-14-29-31


This is with a brand new pump and controller

https://datazap.me/u/lurchalicious/log-1650910641?log=0&data=14-29-31
https://datazap.me/u/lurchalicious/log-1650910641?log=1&data=14-29-31
https://datazap.me/u/lurchalicious/log-1650910641?log=2&data=14-29-31

At this point I'm not sure where the issue is. I'm running a brand new pump and controller. Perhaps the physical install of the T fitting? The OEM Euro Rail needs to be drilled out? The check valve on the quick disconnect in the engine bay?
 

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Michael gti07

Go Kart Newbie
Location
South of Cleveland, North Coast of Ohio
Car(s)
Rabbit Cornflowerblu
Weak possibility the plastic T needs the ends deburred, i.e. chamfered, to lower turbulence when flowing from different parts.
? drop the check valve to see what happens?
? no extreme curves or loops ?
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
That APR leak tester is a great tool.
how much was a new black controller ? I’m still running the silver one.
You should get one, the silver one definitely has problems running an RS3 pump.


using the apr pressure tester i found all my leaks!

problem still with the lpfp, duty cycle is very high for the low amount of pressure being made. logs make it look like a retstriciton.

could stock lines really cause that amount of restriction? check valve? Im being told that i should have about 4x the pressure at the duty cycle the pump is at.
I'm confused. Your pressure and duty cycle % look fine. You're not even cracking 70% and you're holding over 90psi. What's the problem?
 

Lurchalicious

Ready to race!
Location
NKY
You should get one, the silver one definitely has problems running an RS3 pump.



I'm confused. Your pressure and duty cycle % look fine. You're not even cracking 70% and you're holding over 90psi. What's the problem?
According to the tuner, it should be at a lower duty cycle running that psi. I have the same question but apparently it's looking like a large restriction.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Only obvious answer is that he's used to aftermarket MPI rails. The OE euro one would be a slight restriction. But the log doesn't look terrible to me
 

Lurchalicious

Ready to race!
Location
NKY
Weak possibility the plastic T needs the ends deburred, i.e. chamfered, to lower turbulence when flowing from different parts.
? drop the check valve to see what happens?
? no extreme curves or loops ?
using an aluminum earl's tee fitting, will have to check the oem rail opening for burrs etc

Talked to A2B today and they gave some good insight - thank you A2B! check valve is going to be removed this week once parts arrive.

also apparently I'm back to having a boost leak, 80% WG cycle is too high for 25 psi on a vortex XL. :(
 

Rare Ara S3

Go Kart Champion
Location
Michigan
Car(s)
2017 Audi S3, GTI
You should get one, the silver one definitely has problems running an RS3 pump
But I wonder what the failure rate really is. We read about it via a small portion of vehicles made up of enthusiasts. And of that group how many of them cram the thing under the rear seat cushion? Good way to overheat something. Nevermind the ones that are overdriven.
just a thought. Mine is in the factory location basically. On top of the tank.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
But I wonder what the failure rate really is. We read about it via a small portion of vehicles made up of enthusiasts. And of that group how many of them cram the thing under the rear seat cushion? Good way to overheat something. Nevermind the ones that are overdriven.
just a thought. Mine is in the factory location basically. On top of the tank.
eh, as far as the rs3 pump goes, I'd just feel better running the OEM controller designed for that OEM pump. odds are it's a combo of heat, tuners hiding fuel pump DTCs that go unaddressed, and pulling a bit more current out of the silver controller than it's designed for in OE use.
 

Lurchalicious

Ready to race!
Location
NKY
Changed out the line from the hard pipe in the engine bay to the HPFP with Earl's EFI line rated for 255 PSI. Moved the fuel Tee.

https://datazap.me/u/lurchalicious/log-1651264766?log=0&data=8-14
https://datazap.me/u/lurchalicious/log-1651264766?log=1&data=8-14
https://datazap.me/u/lurchalicious/log-1651264766?log=2&data=8-14

Tightened up some spots I believe the boost leaks may have occurred at, put some more lip on the pipe with a bead roller.

I'm not really sure what else I can do to satisfy the issues now.

Here are some pictures of the fuel line setup.

I am changing out the fuel pressure sensor to the same one APR uses - "bosch 0261230414", the one i have on is "bosch 0261230415".
 

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