PerceivedShift
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Virginia
Is your tune setup to use it? Changes must be made for a brushless LPFP controller.I'm using a brushless rs3 lpfp and black controller
Is your tune setup to use it? Changes must be made for a brushless LPFP controller.I'm using a brushless rs3 lpfp and black controller
YesIs your tune setup to use it? Changes must be made for a brushless LPFP controller.
That APR leak tester is a great tool.using the apr pressure tester i found all my leaks!
problem still with the lpfp, duty cycle is very high for the low amount of pressure being made. logs make it look like a retstriciton.
could stock lines really cause that amount of restriction? check valve? Im being told that i should have about 4x the pressure at the duty cycle the pump is at.
i removed the pump, found crud and dirt in the basket and sock; cleaned it out and ensured the ground was cleaned and connected. still no change it seems
next hypothesis is the fuel controller got hurt when the original fuse blew (10 amp) because the shop didnt swap it. should have done it myself but whatever, here we are.
i have a new controller and pump on the way from audi. can/has anyone been able to diagnose a bad control unit that still operates?
Found it direct from Audi online for 118, plus shippingThat APR leak tester is a great tool.
how much was a new black controller ? I’m still running the silver one.
You should get one, the silver one definitely has problems running an RS3 pump.That APR leak tester is a great tool.
how much was a new black controller ? I’m still running the silver one.
I'm confused. Your pressure and duty cycle % look fine. You're not even cracking 70% and you're holding over 90psi. What's the problem?using the apr pressure tester i found all my leaks!
problem still with the lpfp, duty cycle is very high for the low amount of pressure being made. logs make it look like a retstriciton.
could stock lines really cause that amount of restriction? check valve? Im being told that i should have about 4x the pressure at the duty cycle the pump is at.
According to the tuner, it should be at a lower duty cycle running that psi. I have the same question but apparently it's looking like a large restriction.You should get one, the silver one definitely has problems running an RS3 pump.
I'm confused. Your pressure and duty cycle % look fine. You're not even cracking 70% and you're holding over 90psi. What's the problem?
using an aluminum earl's tee fitting, will have to check the oem rail opening for burrs etcWeak possibility the plastic T needs the ends deburred, i.e. chamfered, to lower turbulence when flowing from different parts.
? drop the check valve to see what happens?
? no extreme curves or loops ?
But I wonder what the failure rate really is. We read about it via a small portion of vehicles made up of enthusiasts. And of that group how many of them cram the thing under the rear seat cushion? Good way to overheat something. Nevermind the ones that are overdriven.You should get one, the silver one definitely has problems running an RS3 pump
eh, as far as the rs3 pump goes, I'd just feel better running the OEM controller designed for that OEM pump. odds are it's a combo of heat, tuners hiding fuel pump DTCs that go unaddressed, and pulling a bit more current out of the silver controller than it's designed for in OE use.But I wonder what the failure rate really is. We read about it via a small portion of vehicles made up of enthusiasts. And of that group how many of them cram the thing under the rear seat cushion? Good way to overheat something. Nevermind the ones that are overdriven.
just a thought. Mine is in the factory location basically. On top of the tank.