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Video: Knocking sound coming from the rear of the car after installing APR coilovers. Can anyone help diagnose?

akaquinn

New member
Location
Midwest
Car(s)
2020 GTI SE 6MT
I’ve tried absolutely everything. I’ve confirmed that all bolts are torqued, both the bottom and top spring pads are seated on both sides, and the plastic ring is in place between the top of the spring and the bottom of the adjuster. Has anyone ever had this issue?
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Just hitting the torque spec isn’t enough, suspension components also need to be loaded properly when that torque is applied.


Most common is the RSB endlinks, but it could be your shock mount or shock to LCA. I can’t load your video so I haven’t watched it, but you’ll need to narrow down which component is making the noise in person anyway
 

akaquinn

New member
Location
Midwest
Car(s)
2020 GTI SE 6MT
Just hitting the torque spec isn’t enough, suspension components also need to be loaded properly when that torque is applied.


Most common is the RSB endlinks, but it could be your shock mount or shock to LCA. I can’t load your video so I haven’t watched it, but you’ll need to narrow down which component is making the noise in person anyway

The bottom RSB end link is torqued down. Never touched the top. Not sure what you mean by narrow down in person, aside from sticking a go pro down there and driving off I’m not sure how you could tell.
 

akaquinn

New member
Location
Midwest
Car(s)
2020 GTI SE 6MT
Just hitting the torque spec isn’t enough, suspension components also need to be loaded properly when that torque is applied.


Most common is the RSB endlinks, but it could be your shock mount or shock to LCA. I can’t load your video so I haven’t watched it, but you’ll need to narrow down which component is making the noise in person anyway

hopefully this link works for you

 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
The bottom RSB end link is torqued down. Never touched the top. Not sure what you mean by narrow down in person, aside from sticking a go pro down there and driving off I’m not sure how you could tell.

In real life I can locate the source of a sound a million times more accurately than from a video. Anyway there’s only so many probable causes and sway bar bushings isn’t one of them. The noise is metal on metal now that I got to actually listen to the video it confirms my suspicions.

Was your RSB loaded (weight of the car) on it when you torqued it?

If not break both endlinks loose (just the end you’ve already had off, and re torque with weight on it). 99% of the time that’s it, if not the next suspect would be the rear shock mounts.
 

M3bs1

Go Kart Newbie
Location
North Augusta SC
My money is on the upper shock mount. I just installed that setup on a friend’s car. I wasn’t happy doing it, but using an impact was about the only way to get the top nut tight. Maybe somebody sells a special tool that can be used with a pass-thru socket to hold the tiny flats on the end of the shaft, but I haven’t seen one. That could certainly cause all of the rattling.
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
Long Beach, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S
In real life I can locate the source of a sound a million times more accurately than from a video. Anyway there’s only so many probable causes and sway bar bushings isn’t one of them. The noise is metal on metal now that I got to actually listen to the video it confirms my suspicions.

Was your RSB loaded (weight of the car) on it when you torqued it?

If not break both endlinks loose (just the end you’ve already had off, and re torque with weight on it). 99% of the time that’s it, if not the next suspect would be the rear shock mounts.
My money is on endlinks too. Installed my ST RSB, ran great for a couple days then the passenger endlink came loose. Got a loud clunk whenever turning or going over uneven inclines. Decided torque specs were not going to work and just crawled under there with two wrenches and tightened as hard as I could go. No issues in the 5k+ miles since.
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
My money is on the upper shock mount. I just installed that setup on a friend’s car. I wasn’t happy doing it, but using an impact was about the only way to get the top nut tight. Maybe somebody sells a special tool that can be used with a pass-thru socket to hold the tiny flats on the end of the shaft, but I haven’t seen one. That could certainly cause all of the rattling.

Harbor freight has high offset wrenches I show in the video I linked.
 

odessa.filez

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
if there's a possibility of it being swaybar, then detach links on swaybar end and secure the swaybar out of the way with zip ties. Test drive to see if noise is still there.
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
if there's a possibility of it being swaybar, then detach links on swaybar end and secure the swaybar out of the way with zip ties. Test drive to see if noise is still there.

That takes more effort than cracking the RSB endlinks loose and properly re-torquing them (weight on wheels)
Nice! I’ll grab a set of those as well, the rear mounts sit down in far enough they’re more of a pain than the front so that’ll probably work even better.
 

M3bs1

Go Kart Newbie
Location
North Augusta SC
Those offset wrenches and pass through sockets won’t help. The APR shock rods don’t have a internal hex like most do that accept an Allen wrench. About the only way to hold the shaft is with vice grips, unless somebody makes a special tool for that. There are 6mm flats on the end, but using a 6mm open end will just round it off. Too small.
 

odessa.filez

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
That takes more effort than cracking the RSB endlinks loose and properly re-torquing them (weight on wheels)

Nice! I’ll grab a set of those as well, the rear mounts sit down in far enough they’re more of a pain than the front so that’ll probably work even better.
only more effort if know for sure that it's the bar and links. It will tell you if its not the bar, in which case there will be no frustration should your solution fail!

sounds are tricky. Even 'I know it's in the back' can be proven wrong.
 

snobrdrdan

former GTI owner
Those offset wrenches and pass through sockets won’t help. The APR shock rods don’t have a internal hex like most do that accept an Allen wrench. About the only way to hold the shaft is with vice grips, unless somebody makes a special tool for that. There are 6mm flats on the end, but using a 6mm open end will just round it off. Too small.
If it's like the stock rear shocks, and/or the same size, VW does have a special tool:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/counter-hold-tool/3079counthld~oev/

NAPA has something similar for only $2.49, but I have no clue if it'll work on the VW shocks or not:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_...9vhTMB8o7wgiZyMoXlkFIPNmlX-cfREaAtHSEALw_wcB&

That said....I've always just used a crescent wrench to hold the flat spots on the shock rod at the top and then use the wrench or socket to do the work. I've never had an issue doing it that way.
 
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