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Very Belated Oryx White Golf R Build

nono0044

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Toronto
I got that natural feel. I do like your choice of going with the smooth leather and perforated sides. Much better than the CF awfulness
 

Rrrrrmatey

Go Kart Champion
Car(s)
Mk 7.5 Golf R
I got that natural feel. I do like your choice of going with the smooth leather and perforated sides. Much better than the CF awfulness

Yeah, having them do the reshape option was a bit of a tough decision. I really like the look from certain angles, but from others it just looks a bit strange. Ultimately I was going for improved ergonomics and it is definitely much better for me in that respect (both with the reshape and the increased diameter).
 

Rrrrrmatey

Go Kart Champion
Car(s)
Mk 7.5 Golf R
Looks great.

It looks like the MK7.5 Milltek leaves a bit of gap between the top of the bumper opening and the start of the tips. Was wondering if it was my installation, but it seems to be the case. Regardless, it's a great setup.

So aside from one of the tips being rotated a few degrees too far (making it uneven with the rest), the gap and degree to which the tips stuck out just kept bugging me. Luckily NGP was able to significantly improve the gap and pull the exhaust back a bit. It sounds like they had to bend the exhaust hangers a bit and throw an extra washer for spacing on some of the bolts (not certain which ones exactly), but I’m MUCH happier with the look now.


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I also had my new steering wheel installed...I know the shape isn’t for everyone, but the ergonomics are far better than stock IMO

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HuntR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Seattle
Nice! Same car here-actually Mk7 DCC, exact same wheels. Also very interested in the B6's with Eibach pro-kit lowering springs--how does the B6/Eibach combo compare to the B6/stock springs combo?
Do you have any kind words on the front strut tower brace?
(Currently I have stock DCC suspension, rear ARB installed, front ARB in a box awaiting install along with front EMD slotted 340mm 1-piece rotors/I-Sweep is-1500 pads, and new wheel bearings).
 

Rrrrrmatey

Go Kart Champion
Car(s)
Mk 7.5 Golf R
Nice! Same car here-actually Mk7 DCC, exact same wheels. Also very interested in the B6's with Eibach pro-kit lowering springs--how does the B6/Eibach combo compare to the B6/stock springs combo?
Do you have any kind words on the front strut tower brace?
(Currently I have stock DCC suspension, rear ARB installed, front ARB in a box awaiting install along with front EMD slotted 340mm 1-piece rotors/I-Sweep is-1500 pads, and new wheel bearings).

I like the strut tower brace - it’s not a night/day change by any means, but for the cost and ease of install, I have no regrets.

Here’s a thread which discusses it more.

With regard to the B6 Damptronics and the Eibach Pro Kit, I don’t have the springs installed yet, so I can’t personally comment on the combo. I’ve had the struts/shocks on for about 10k and I’m a huge fan - I’d go so far as to say it’s the best mod on the car...really transformed the handling and ride.
 
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HuntR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Seattle
I like the strut tower brace - it’s not a night/day change by any means, but for the cost and ease of install, I have no regrets. Here’s a thread which discusses it more.
Here’s a thread which discusses it more.

With regard to the B6 Damptronics and the Eibach Pro Kit, I don’t have the springs installed yet, so I can’t personally comment on the combo. I’ve had the struts/shocks on for about 10k and I’m a huge fan - I’d go so far as to say it’s the best mod on the car...really transformed the handling and ride.
Good to know thanks. i'm not against lowering a little--0.5", but also value ground clearance. I talked to Bilstein USA and they said B6 is good with lowering springs as well. How does the car handle street driving now compared to stock DCC shocks?
 

Rrrrrmatey

Go Kart Champion
Car(s)
Mk 7.5 Golf R
Good to know thanks. i'm not against lowering a little--0.5", but also value ground clearance. I talked to Bilstein USA and they said B6 is good with lowering springs as well. How does the car handle street driving now compared to stock DCC shocks?

Thanks for sharing that info - I’d reached out to Bilstein and was told the same thing. I reached out separately to Eibach and was told the same, as well as that the stock bump stops don’t need to be modified at all. I have decided to go with adjustable front sway bar links and am going to throw some TEIN spring silencers on, but otherwise those are the only suspension changes I’m planning.

There’s a thread on the B6 Damptronics somewhere on here with a good amount of info, I’ll see if I can dig that up. For street driving it’s fantastic IMO. Everything is basically one setting stiffer (comfort is like normal now, normal is like sport, etc.) It’s not too stiff though and has been fine over some of my local crappy roads.

Edit: Here’s the thread.
 

HuntR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Seattle
Thanks for sharing that info - I’d reached out to Bilstein and was told the same thing. I reached out separately to Eibach and was told the same, as well as that the stock bump stops don’t need to be modified at all. I have decided to go with adjustable front sway bar links and am going to throw some TEIN spring silencers on, but otherwise those are the only suspension changes I’m planning.

There’s a thread on the B6 Damptronics somewhere on here with a good amount of info, I’ll see if I can dig that up. For street driving it’s fantastic IMO. Everything is basically one setting stiffer (comfort is like normal now, normal is like sport, etc.) It’s not too stiff though and has been fine over some of my local crappy roads.

Edit: Here’s the thread.
Thanks for the link. The B6’s are sounding good. No front ‘sway’ bar for you? I installed the rear and to me the car felt sharper but a bit off balance-so I’m lined up with a front bar. Mostly what I’ve read is also adding a stiffer front ARB is a good thing. Another experiment. Also throwing on 034 subframe alignment kit-somehow convinced myself it was worth it, you know, while you’re in there.
 

r12rex

Go Kart Newbie
Location
SoCal
Thanks for sharing that info - I’d reached out to Bilstein and was told the same thing. I reached out separately to Eibach and was told the same, as well as that the stock bump stops don’t need to be modified at all. I have decided to go with adjustable front sway bar links and am going to throw some TEIN spring silencers on, but otherwise those are the only suspension changes I’m planning.

There’s a thread on the B6 Damptronics somewhere on here with a good amount of info, I’ll see if I can dig that up. For street driving it’s fantastic IMO. Everything is basically one setting stiffer (comfort is like normal now, normal is like sport, etc.) It’s not too stiff though and has been fine over some of my local crappy roads.

Edit: Here’s the thread.
Nice! Same car here-actually Mk7 DCC, exact same wheels. Also very interested in the B6's with Eibach pro-kit lowering springs--how does the B6/Eibach combo compare to the B6/stock springs combo?
Do you have any kind words on the front strut tower brace?
(Currently I have stock DCC suspension, rear ARB installed, front ARB in a box awaiting install along with front EMD slotted 340mm 1-piece rotors/I-Sweep is-1500 pads, and new wheel bearings)

Nice R! I have an MK7 R with Eibach and B6 Damptronics installed. They are a wonderful match together! The ride quality and the ride height is perfect. I would recommend you do a DCC basic setting calibration following the install of any lowering spring. Without a basic setting calibration, your sensors effectively think your car’s suspension is being compressed, thus increasing the stiffness. I ran my Eibach/B6 combo for 6k without doing a re-calibration and while the ride was only slightly stiffer than stock, bigger hits and freeway junctions would feel like I was hitting the bumpstops. Once I did the basic settings (via OBD11) the ride has SIGNIFICANTLY improved. The car no longer feels like it hits the bump stops during the same junctions and hits on the roads I travel here in Los Angeles. Where race mode prior to calibration was too stiff to drive daily, after re-cal I can use it without any problems. Body/chassis control and composure is wonderfully controlled and the ride is VERY close to stock without the floatiness the stock suspension had.

I also have a Eurosport front strut bar. After the install, I noticed less creaking going into driveways and crisper turn-in. It was a definite worthwhile mod. Day-to-day the change is marginal, but where you notice it is during quick left/right transitions. The car is much more eager to turn-in. Happy motoring!

Kind Regards,
Ryan
 

Rrrrrmatey

Go Kart Champion
Car(s)
Mk 7.5 Golf R
Thanks for the link. The B6’s are sounding good. No front ‘sway’ bar for you? I installed the rear and to me the car felt sharper but a bit off balance-so I’m lined up with a front bar. Mostly what I’ve read is also adding a stiffer front ARB is a good thing. Another experiment. Also throwing on 034 subframe alignment kit-somehow convinced myself it was worth it, you know, while you’re in there.

I’d considered doing the front sway bar, but decided against it ultimately because 1) I’m really happy with how neutral the car is right now and don’t feel a need and 2) started to go down the ‘while you’re in there’ path of, “well, if I have to drop the subframe anyway, why not take the opportunity to upgrade it to the aluminum version” and other non-wallet friendly thinking.


Nice R! I have an MK7 R with Eibach and B6 Damptronics installed. They are a wonderful match together! The ride quality and the ride height is perfect. I would recommend you do a DCC basic setting calibration following the install of any lowering spring. Without a basic setting calibration, your sensors effectively think your car’s suspension is being compressed, thus increasing the stiffness. I ran my Eibach/B6 combo for 6k without doing a re-calibration and while the ride was only slightly stiffer than stock, bigger hits and freeway junctions would feel like I was hitting the bumpstops. Once I did the basic settings (via OBD11) the ride has SIGNIFICANTLY improved. The car no longer feels like it hits the bump stops during the same junctions and hits on the roads I travel here in Los Angeles. Where race mode prior to calibration was too stiff to drive daily, after re-cal I can use it without any problems. Body/chassis control and composure is wonderfully controlled and the ride is VERY close to stock without the floatiness the stock suspension had.

I also have a Eurosport front strut bar. After the install, I noticed less creaking going into driveways and crisper turn-in. It was a definite worthwhile mod. Day-to-day the change is marginal, but where you notice it is during quick left/right transitions. The car is much more eager to turn-in. Happy motoring!

Kind Regards,
Ryan

Thanks and great points...I’ll say that I had the DCC calibration done at install (and will have it done again when the springs go on) and have had no issues. I’ve read a few comments on the B6 Damptronics with similar experiences to
yours (before the calibration was done) and it sounds like a must.

I’m not entirely certain what variables are accounted for during the calibration though. I know suspension travel is a big one, but I am curious what else the system takes into account when it’s being recalibrated.
 

HuntR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Seattle
I’d considered doing the front sway bar, but decided against it ultimately because 1) I’m really happy with how neutral the car is right now and don’t feel a need and 2) started to go down the ‘while you’re in there’ path of, “well, if I have to drop the subframe anyway, why not take the opportunity to upgrade it to the aluminum version” and other non-wallet friendly thinking.




Thanks and great points...I’ll say that I had the DCC calibration done at install (and will have it done again when the springs go on) and have had no issues. I’ve read a few comments on the B6 Damptronics with similar experiences to
yours (before the calibration was done) and it sounds like a must.

I’m not entirely certain what variables are accounted for during the calibration though. I know suspension travel is a big one, but I am curious what else the system takes into account when it’s being recalibrated.
I need to replace the front wheel bearings due to curb impact incident- they're annoyingly noisy on the road. So, while the struts are off the LCA's, it's new brakes-need them, at 52k, and front ARB + end links. You can see how I got to B6's from there--half the B6 labor is done already, and what's another day on the stands for something that will take away the floaty feeling after Stage-2 tuning and make the car feel even more solid and 'planted'. I'm keeping the car for a few more years, as it's such a good all-rounder. There, totally justified.
 

Rrrrrmatey

Go Kart Champion
Car(s)
Mk 7.5 Golf R
So I finally got all the parts on which I had sitting around...just in time to potentially sell the car since I’m probably moving 😒

I like the stance now that the Eibach Pro Kit is on and the ride is just a bit firmer than it was before (which is what I was going for). Aside from parts install, I also flushed the brake fluid (Castrol SRF React after about 12.5k on it) and swapped out plugs to see how they were doing (also about 12.5k on them...a waste of $ as the previous ones were fine and no fouling or anything).

Finally, applied some VW underbody preservation wax (D321M15M1) and had the car washed and detailed to show it some love after this last winter.

Check out my feeler sale thread here - I’ll update that (and my build thread) when I’m ready to sell.

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Rear suspension - now with Eibach and some more SuperPro goodness!

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Rrrrrmatey

Go Kart Champion
Car(s)
Mk 7.5 Golf R
andddddddddd...like that, my car is off the market and will be coming with me on adventures to cool new places. Barring whatever the next gen (2022) RS3 offers, there literally wasn’t anything else I thought I’d rather buy later on if I sold the R.

Particularly with the last batch of mods, it’s pretty close to being my perfect vision of a fun daily driver.

On that note, I’m noticing significantly better gas mileage since the last round of mods. I have a very consistent commute and pre-mods I was getting 300-310 miles per tank (until the low fuel warning came on) like clockwork since I bought the car. Post-mods, and now after 6 or 7 tanks of gas, I’ve been getting 325-335 miles per tank until the low fuel warning comes on.

I’m tempted to credit the aero mods (lowered the car, full aero under tray, rs3 ducts, rear control arm aero bits) which I got based on the DIYs by @golfdave but I’m skeptical that some plastic covers and a 0.5” drop could make this sort of difference. Not sure what else to attribute it to, so below is the last batch of mods (and get ready to judge my automotive OCD!) —

2019 Golf R
**Please see instructions below on original hardware**
  1. Install APR Coil Packs & RS7 Plugs (customer provided)
a. Inspect current plugs for fouling & note condition
b. Keep old coil packs (return to customer)
c. Dispose of old plugs

2. Install OEM Transmission Breather Line (customer provided)
a. Keep old transmission breather cap (return to customer)

3. Install Eibach Lowering Springs/Fit TEIN Spring Silencers (customer provided)
a. Per Eibach, bump stops do NOT need to be trimmed
b. Install new upper strut mounts & bearings (customer provided)
c. Dispose of old upper strut mounts & bearings
d. Keep old springs (return to customer)

4. Install SuperPro Adjustable Front Sway Bar Links (customer provided)
a. Keep old links (return to customer)

5. Install SuperPro rear trailing arm bushing and inner/outer toe arm bushings (customer provided)

6. Rotate Tires (20k Service)
a. Install ECS Titanium Wheel Bolts (customer provided)
b. Ensure all zinc-based grease has been cleaned from holes
c. Keep old wheel bolts (return to customer)

7. Flush/replace Castrol SRF Brake Fluid (customer provided fluid)

8. Install RS3 plastic brake cooling ducts (customer provided)
a. Check for fitment and trim as necessary (likely needs to be trimmed)

9. Install Mk8 rear control arm Aero/rock covers (customer provided)

10. Replace underbody front aero tray (from half-length one to full cover - customer provided)
a. Keep old aero tray (return to customer)

11. Apply underbody preservation wax (customer provided)

12. Inspect & Re-grease all suspension components

13. Conduct DCC Calibration & 4-wheel alignment
a. Inspect for any rubbing post lowering spring & RS3 brake duct install

14. Conduct State Safety Inspection
 
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