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VAQ felt terrible on the track yesterday

8kGoodEnuff

Ready to race!
Location
Northern NJ
So I ended up giving it a try and nothing. It seems that the general reset actually went through but when I went to do the pump motor reset, it would start but would not come out of "active" status. The first time I did it, I waited nearly 15 min and the status would not change. I looked at the temps and it was under 90 degF (not sure if that mattered), so I went for another drive and got it just over 95 degF and tried again - waited around 5-7 min this time and status did not move beyond "active"

Anyone have any ideas why it's not updating?

Note - I have the iOS version of OBD11.

Thanks.
 

Keehs360

Autocross Champion
Location
Denver
Car(s)
Mk7.5
So I ended up giving it a try and nothing. It seems that the general reset actually went through but when I went to do the pump motor reset, it would start but would not come out of "active" status. The first time I did it, I waited nearly 15 min and the status would not change. I looked at the temps and it was under 90 degF (not sure if that mattered), so I went for another drive and got it just over 95 degF and tried again - waited around 5-7 min this time and status did not move beyond "active"

Anyone have any ideas why it's not updating?

Note - I have the iOS version of OBD11.

Thanks.
Do you get a lot of over heat fault codes from the lsd?
 

8kGoodEnuff

Ready to race!
Location
Northern NJ
Do you get a lot of over heat fault codes from the lsd?
When I connected the OBD11 for the first attempt of reset, there was an overtemp fault code but I assumed that was because of when I was trialing with the snow banks trying to understand why the diff wasn't locking. I reset the fault codes before trying the reset.

Honestly, I wasn't familiar with the temp trending so never really thought to look. Now that I know, I will track the temps when driving for longer periods.

What is your thought process around the overtemp fault code? Are you thinking it is locking out the reset process?
 

Keehs360

Autocross Champion
Location
Denver
Car(s)
Mk7.5
When I connected the OBD11 for the first attempt of reset, there was an overtemp fault code but I assumed that was because of when I was trialing with the snow banks trying to understand why the diff wasn't locking. I reset the fault codes before trying the reset.

Honestly, I wasn't familiar with the temp trending so never really thought to look. Now that I know, I will track the temps when driving for longer periods.

What is your thought process around the overtemp fault code? Are you thinking it is locking out the reset process?
Could be the diff oil. It could be so used you can’t build pressure

mind you I’m just guessing! But considering how fast and cheap it is to swap the oil....
 

8kGoodEnuff

Ready to race!
Location
Northern NJ
Could be the diff oil. It could be so used you can’t build pressure

mind you I’m just guessing! But considering how fast and cheap it is to swap the oil....
The funny thing is that I noticed something was wrong about 1.5 years ago (15,000 miles ago) when I had my clutch kit installed, including diff and haldex fluid changed. I even reached out to the member on here "RJRacing" after seeing his post on VWVortex for reset options. The problem is that I really had no way of testing for the functionality of the diff other than now with all the snow on the ground. Who knows if the shop followed the correct procedure or if they reset the diff electronics. They are a reputable shop but you never know.

That being said, I understand your subtle suggestion.
 

Keehs360

Autocross Champion
Location
Denver
Car(s)
Mk7.5
The funny thing is that I noticed something was wrong about 1.5 years ago (15,000 miles ago) when I had my clutch kit installed, including diff and haldex fluid changed. I even reached out to the member on here "RJRacing" after seeing his post on VWVortex for reset options. The problem is that I really had no way of testing for the functionality of the diff other than now with all the snow on the ground. Who knows if the shop followed the correct procedure or if they reset the diff electronics. They are a reputable shop but you never know.

That being said, I understand your subtle suggestion.
So after swapping out the diff fluid, one should definitely perform the reset then?
 

8kGoodEnuff

Ready to race!
Location
Northern NJ
So after swapping out the diff fluid, one should definitely perform the reset then?
I'm not entirely sure however from what I've read, it should be done. It's interesting and depressing that it just stops working. You would think it would throw a fault code indicating that something isn't right, and even if not during normal driving, at least when there is a significant amount of one wheel spin. I would think that the car would know that is not normal.
 

Keehs360

Autocross Champion
Location
Denver
Car(s)
Mk7.5
I'm not entirely sure however from what I've read, it should be done. It's interesting and depressing that it just stops working. You would think it would throw a fault code indicating that something isn't right, and even if not during normal driving, at least when there is a significant amount of one wheel spin. I would think that the car would know that is not normal.
I think this is because the unit isn’t integrated. The type r and veloster n have their e lsd’s integrated into the tranny. As a result there’s never a weird delay at all
 

8kGoodEnuff

Ready to race!
Location
Northern NJ
I think this is because the unit isn’t integrated. The type r and veloster n have their e lsd’s integrated into the tranny. As a result there’s never a weird delay at all
I'm starting to have thoughts now that either the tech forgot to add fluid or didn't add enough. If I went to a dealer, would they know what to do? I really don't like the thought of going to a stealership but I wouldn't want to go to another tuning shop and them not know how to reset.
 

Keehs360

Autocross Champion
Location
Denver
Car(s)
Mk7.5
I'm starting to have thoughts now that either the tech forgot to add fluid or didn't add enough. If I went to a dealer, would they know what to do? I really don't like the thought of going to a stealership but I wouldn't want to go to another tuning shop and them not know how to reset.
I don’t envy your decision. I’d call ahead and call as many vw shops and inquire
 

8kGoodEnuff

Ready to race!
Location
Northern NJ
I don’t envy your decision. I’d call ahead and call as many vw shops and inquire
Update:

Finally brought the car to a tuner shop and they were not able to figure anything out and didn't see anything wrong either. I do want to say that this issue does not throw any codes. They said they monitored the clutchpack and that they can see them modulating via the diagnostic tools, which is exactly how described here... https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/pp-gti-owners-is-your-diff-not-as-strong-as-it-once-was.7291394/

I also called a dealer and explained to them the situation and all they wanted to do was get the car in for a diagnostic. I explained that they will not find anything but again, they want to "plug it in"

At this point I'm inquiring in my local forum for anyone or shop that has VAGCOM that can just follow the steps outlined in the link I provided above.

Hoping something comes of it since it is so frustrating to know that I bought this car for this feature and it doesn't even work.

Anyone else have any other ideas?

Thank You.
 

8kGoodEnuff

Ready to race!
Location
Northern NJ
Do some logging while driving. See how much pressure the VAQ is generating. Maybe it's not enough?
Did you buy brand new or second hand? Are all the VAQ and XDS settings at the default or has someone played with it?

I bought the car new.

I'm assuming I should be able to log that with the OBD11?

No one has changed the settings. The exact time that I noticed a change in feel was after a clutch install but that was in the month of May a few years back and of course didn't really think anything of it until the winter came and I went to pull out of a parking spot where the right side of the car was in snow and left side on pavement and the car wouldn't move with the right tire spinning freely.

I will see if I can use the OBD11 again to reset. From what I've read, people have been successful at doing so with it but for me, it never reaches the completed phase.

Thanks.
 
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