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UR Downpipe Just Came In!

1fastredsc

Ready to race!
Location
Cranberry, PA
Decided i hated how quiet my car became after getting rid of my APR downpipe, so i picked up this UR downpipe while they were having their black friday weekend sale.
 

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Mk7PR

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Puerto Rico
Ordered one too, I'm waiting to be delivered hoping this saturday. Mine is catted (200cell), non res with the 02 bung.

If you install it first, please write your feedback.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

KawaZukiVdub

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Latveria
I got mine a couple days ago, ceramic cat, resonated, w/wideband bung, hoping I can get it installed this weekend and say hello to stage 2! Was gonna get Eurocodes pipe but they didn't want to do a sale on their catted DP... their loss was URs gain!
 
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1fastredsc

Ready to race!
Location
Cranberry, PA
Why did you get rid of the APR DP?

I had the idea in my head of trying to stay in stock class for autox by putting the stock DP back on, so then i sold the APR. But now i've decided that i'd rather have a DP on the car as it's a bit quiet, i miss the extra top end, and i want the dsg pops to come back.

FWIW, the APR is a nice unit with a really nice cat, but because it's cast it's quite a bit heavier than the seamless tube designs like this one.

MK7PR, it sounds like you bought the same thing i did. Metal substrate cat (200 cell) with an 02 spacer and non-res.
 

Mk7PR

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Puerto Rico
I had the idea in my head of trying to stay in stock class for autox by putting the stock DP back on, so then i sold the APR. But now i've decided that i'd rather have a DP on the car as it's a bit quiet, i miss the extra top end, and i want the dsg pops to come back.

FWIW, the APR is a nice unit with a really nice cat, but because it's cast it's quite a bit heavier than the seamless tube designs like this one.

MK7PR, it sounds like you bought the same thing i did. Metal substrate cat (200 cell) with an 02 spacer and non-res.

Yeah, exactly the same. Picked up this morning at the post office and waiting in line for the shop to install it hopefully today.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

Mk7GTl

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Looks great. Let us know how the figment is.
 

Revolagoy1

Ready to race!
Location
Arizona
I installed mine about three weeks ago. I had fitment issues with the metal tab support brace. It wouldn't sit flush on the mounting bracket. And the two prongs that fit in the orange rubber support bracket wouldn't go in the holes. I put small spacers in the gap so the prongs would go in the holes. I will try to take pics today. Mine is ceramic cat resonated and it's about the same sound as stock. I love it.
 

KawaZukiVdub

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Latveria
I installed mine about three weeks ago. I had fitment issues with the metal tab support brace. It wouldn't sit flush on the mounting bracket. And the two prongs that fit in the orange rubber support bracket wouldn't go in the holes. I put small spacers in the gap so the prongs would go in the holes. I will try to take pics today. Mine is ceramic cat resonated and it's about the same sound as stock. I love it.

Yes please post pics. I guess for the mounting bracket you could use washers to get it to be flush?
 

Revolagoy1

Ready to race!
Location
Arizona
Here are some pics. You could use washers for the down-pipe bracket. The stock down-pipe bolts up to two points on a Y-bracket mounted to the engine. I used the nut from the other side of the Y-bracket that was not being used to fill in the gap. You can see this in the pic. The second pic shows a black metal block spacer I used to move the prong bracket further away from the front of the car so the prongs went further into the orange rubber bushings. I had two blocks that were sitting in my tool box left over from my Evo VIII exhaust install. Never thought I would find a use for them but kept them anyway. Not sure what you can use, maybe more washers. During the install I tried rotating the down-pipe multiple ways and nothing allowed me to get the down-pipe bracket flush and the top mounted to the turbo correctly. I ended up moving the down-pipe until it was flush with the turbo and then figured out how to deal with the down-pipe bracket and the prongs. The rest of the exhaust with the resonator bolted up perfectly to the stock cat back. Hopefully, these were isolated issues with my downpipe and you don't have to deal with them.
 

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KawaZukiVdub

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Latveria
Here are some pics. You could use washers for the down-pipe bracket. The stock down-pipe bolts up to two points on a Y-bracket mounted to the engine. I used the nut from the other side of the Y-bracket that was not being used to fill in the gap. You can see this in the pic. The second pic shows a black metal block spacer I used to move the prong bracket further away from the front of the car so the prongs went further into the orange rubber bushings. I had two blocks that were sitting in my tool box left over from my Evo VIII exhaust install. Never thought I would find a use for them but kept them anyway. Not sure what you can use, maybe more washers. During the install I tried rotating the down-pipe multiple ways and nothing allowed me to get the down-pipe bracket flush and the top mounted to the turbo correctly. I ended up moving the down-pipe until it was flush with the turbo and then figured out how to deal with the down-pipe bracket and the prongs. The rest of the exhaust with the resonator bolted up perfectly to the stock cat back. Hopefully, these were isolated issues with my downpipe and you don't have to deal with them.

Thanks for the pics man! Yea hopefully I won't have to deal w/that, we will find out.
 

1fastredsc

Ready to race!
Location
Cranberry, PA
So mine fit just fine, cat bracket and all. I had to do some adjustment in the fitment between the catback and downpipe, because at first it sagged a little too far down and would rub against the chassis bracket. But then i adjusted the fit to sit higher in the tunnel. Otherwise it seems tight with no leaks and sounds great, plus the DSG pops are back.
 

1fastredsc

Ready to race!
Location
Cranberry, PA
A couple of additional notes:

I installed upper section of the DP first without the lower section. I started at the flange to turbo v-band clamped portion first, but left it loose enough that it could still rotate the upper section of the downpipe. Then i rotated the pipe downward, closer to the block, until the bracket welded to the catalyst seated against the OEM cat Y-bracket attached to the block. Then i fastened that bracket, along with subframe bracket with the two rubber mounts at the bottom of the downpipe upper section. Once firmly in place, i went back to the top of the car and finished tightening the flange to downpipe v-band clamp. That completed the upper section of the DP.
The lower section of the downpipe is where the two bolt flanges are and either a resonator or straight pipe. This section can be tricky as i noticed when dry assembling the DP that the flanges seem to purposely be welded at an angle relative to that straight section i.e. the flanges are not completely square with the pipe they are welded to. I think this was done because the upper section of the downpipe exits at the bottom of the car in an orientation that isn't completely inline with the catback, but isn't far off either. So I played with the orientation of the lower section until it essentially lined up perfectly with the catback. Once acheived, it fell right into place and the only challenge was to support the DP+catback joint with one arm while fastening the sleeve that holds them together in order to preload the joint in tension and keep it suspended away from the chassis bracket that runs under that joint (see reference to an adjustement i had to make above).

All-in-all, this downpipe is of similar noise volume, without the resonator, to the APR DP. One difference i noticed is that the tone is a little less "farty", i.e. less burbles and pops at low rpm/load situations. I'd hypothesize that this is due to the cat placement being closer to the turbo, rather than farther downstream and under the car. This hypothesis is based on that fact that both cats are of metal substrate design, but the one UR uses is of a lower cell density (200 vs 300). If anything i'd have expected more noise and fartiness from the UR, but so far it seems a little quieter instead.

Also, the UR downpipe did not come with installation instructions. I'm fine with that as i've turned a few wrenches in my lifetime and also have previous experience swapping downpipes in this car. I mention this because when considering certain aspects of the installation process, like the slight correction in exit angle at the bottom of the car that isn't completely intuitive, this DP is a little less DIY friendly than other designs (like the APR). I don't think i'd recommend it for everyone, but i'm definitely happy with it.

Thanks
 

KawaZukiVdub

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Latveria
So I installed the DP today and all and all the install was not very hard at all (helps that I have access to a lift), I did not run into the issues that Revolagoy ran into; the hardest part really was taking the stock pipe out. W/the cat and the resonator the car is not loud at all, I wasn't getting on it much because at the time I was on the stock tune (just got done flashing to stage 2 a half an hr ago.) I did notice the difference in tone when getting higher in the rpms though but I'm happy that the car is not real loud. I'm not a old guy but I feel I'm getting old enough where I don't want loud for the sake of being loud, I do want some noise but am over the whole "loud exhaust" thing now.

One thing I need to figure out now is when taking off from a dead stop, I hear a lil clanking? I'm thinking it is either the little bar that bolts across the exhaust tunnel is hitting the resonator bolt flanges or the part where the downpipe gets pushed into the red bracket/rubber stoppers?, the actual DP is hitting the subframe when taking off? Any thoughts? Have you guys come across this noise issue?
 
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