I wouldn't waste the tires since they're that new just keep in mind that when you need new tires a high performance tire will help a lot for traction. If the dealership is willing to flash the tune to the low torque tune now and then flash it back to the high torque tune if you get performance tires without charging you for flashing that's a route you could go.
Lol. What do you call them?
Always been a coozie to me!
Oh look, you live somewhere mild. Get outta here with ‘not noticeable’ on a daily driver. It’s 97 here today, my stock i/c is a wreck. My Baun is conveniently in a closet. I need to rectify that.
In Florida? Heh, I log it and it gets 125-130 easily in slow driving. Stop long? 140-145. Timing gets pulled and the power loss is noticeable. I put in octane booster and the timing comes back for the most part. I’m thinking FMIC + 91 tune (and run 93 gas) will be my safest bet.
If I wanted to go through 23 pages of sometimes extraneous or inaccurate information like most of the threads on any forum, I would.
I did see that the dealer offered a refund. Goes to show you how well they inspect a CPO car. Were the tires to CPO spec?
How to say my time is more valueable than yours without saying my time is more valuable than yours.If I wanted to go through 23 pages of sometimes extraneous or inaccurate information like most of the threads on any forum, I would.
I did see that the dealer offered a refund. Goes to show you how well they inspect a CPO car. Were the tires to CPO spec?
B/c when you get your aftermarket IC, you will see the same numbers unless you are, as I said above, on it a lot or under sustained boost for a 1/4 run etc. Pulling on to the highway for a single punch of 5 seconds isn't going to see much difference. So many posts on the MQB FB groups that go like this (pic of their Cobb AP) "Bro, why are my IATs so high with this *insert aftermarket IC name here* IC?". The OE IC is plenty efficient for day-to-day type driving on a stock car and isn't bad on a stage 1 car for shorter pulls. Here is a "driving around" log in my IS38 Sportwagen with a Unitronic IC. Have a look at the IATs and IAT-ambient numbers - still ~30 or so above ambient for most of that log unless I was doing a pull/accelerating/building boost and 40+ when stopped. An air to air IC only is efficient when you have large enough air volumes moving through it (hard use/high boost). Just want to make sure you don't get one and are disapointed that your cruising/idling IATs are about the same as with your stocker as happens with many folks.
I definitely don’t expect the idling temps to change. But I see thread after thread of people showing the better efficiency of an aftermarket intercooler in mixed driving. And how could it NOT work better? Where the stock intercooler is now, it only gets sufficient airflow when you’re moving over 45mph. But a FMIC will be able to take better advantage of less airflow. Shrug. Seems logical to me. But I know most things aren’t that simple.
Even a larger IC in the stock location would help. Some of the aftermarket FMIC 's require some adjustments to fit properly.
