Tuned 1.8 Tsi long term reliability

[danbfree]

As impressive as that guy's dyno is, I won't be following in his footsteps.

Maybe I've got a dog 1.8 but use for AX creates lots of heat for me and I now and then see trim spikes above 50, simply running JB4 map 2 and modulating throttle at high rpms in 2nd.

Maybe it won't be an issue for him. I hope not.

You'd prob need an intercooler upgrade and for sure a high flow DP with an IS38 on a 1.8. There are ways to keep temps down for sure.... But the lag wouldn't be good for Auto X anyway, mainly roll racing, hehe.

 

[TrippyStamps™]

Answering OP’s question, I’ve been running APR’s stage 3 IS20 tune for a couple years now on my 1.8 Tsi slushbox. I have noticed some torque converter decline over the past year:

- slower shifts at high torque
- quite a bit more shake when letting off the gas, not as smooth

Engine reliability has been great. I think going IS38 would require forged components to guarantee reliability. But I do believe as a daily, the IS20 is a perfect match for the 1.8 Tsi

 

[Dog Dad Wagon]

Answering OP’s question, I’ve been running APR’s stage 3 IS20 tune for a couple years now on my 1.8 Tsi slushbox. I have noticed some torque converter decline over the past year:

- slower shifts at high torque
- quite a bit more shake when letting off the gas, not as smooth

Engine reliability has been great. I think going IS38 would require forged components to guarantee reliability. But I do believe as a daily, the IS20 is a perfect match for the 1.8 Tsi

Lol the bottom end on your 1.8 is the same as the bottom end on the Golf R’s 2.0 w/ IS38. No, forged internals are not needed for IS38. Shit, they aren’t even needed for a Vortex

 

[MonkeyMD]

I've been is38 running e40ish for 50k miles & was stage 1 before that. Currently at 140k miles. Fingers crossed, other than transmission issues and the ubiquitous water pump leak, engine been fine

 

[TrippyStamps™]

Lol the bottom end on your 1.8 is the same as the bottom end on the Golf R’s 2.0 w/ IS38. No, forged internals are not needed for IS38. Shit, they aren’t even needed for a Vortex

I’m not saying it’s necessary, but for longevity sake, it would certainly guarantee your engine doesn’t fall apart later

 

[MonkeyMD]

Sure, but is it necessary for longevity? No. Gotta be at much higher power levels to be an issue

I mean @Blade3562 is also is38 and on his 20th 5 speed, but same engine.

 

[YamR1rider]

Was a bit late to the tuning party as bought daughter's 1.8tsi auto stock at 140k miles ( with it having some problems to include thermostat false reading/waterpump replacement, clogged injectors and carbon buildup, leaking oil cooler and annoying knock sensor related 'cylinder pressure too high' codes. I DIY addressed all of the above and more), then got the car low level APR stage 1 87 octane tuned at about 144k miles on the clock. I dare say it runs better than it ever did in it's two previous owner lives, with a nice and safe oem+ boost in power torque and feel. Now all ancillary problems have been addressed and with tune, all is completely solid on. Motor burns zero oil. I also serviced the 09G auto box on purchase.... it now is also is good order (perhaps surprisingly as some prior ass clown had overfilled it by nearly 3 liters ).

 

[tigeo]

94K/4.5 years. Tuned since nearly new. Uni st1 for 10 mos. Uni IS20 for a year. Uni IS38 since then. Tracked. Hundreds of drag runs. Water pump of course. The big one I had was my timing chain tensioner...bolts holding it to block snapped...fortunately no damage. No need with the 38 to build the bottom end...not the weak spot.

 

[odessa.filez]

Answering OP’s question, I’ve been running APR’s stage 3 IS20 tune for a couple years now on my 1.8 Tsi slushbox. I have noticed some torque converter decline over the past year:

- slower shifts at high torque
- quite a bit more shake when letting off the gas, not as smooth

Engine reliability has been great. I think going IS38 would require forged components to guarantee reliability. But I do believe as a daily, the IS20 is a perfect match for the 1.8 Tsi

It's possible that you:re causing fatigue on the dogbone bushing.

The top portion of mine completely broke loose around 95k miles and after many launches. Before that, the car felt sloppy letting off the gas.

 

[ZuMBLe]

94K/4.5 years. Tuned since nearly new. Uni st1 for 10 mos. Uni IS20 for a year. Uni IS38 since then. Tracked. Hundreds of drag runs. Water pump of course. The big one I had was my timing chain tensioner...bolts holding it to block snapped...fortunately no damage. No need with the 38 to build the bottom end...not the weak spot.

The weak point of the 1.8s is the fueling system. The fueling system can barely support what a IS38 is capable of. Fix the fueling issue and the 1.8s can def handle way more. I actually don't beat on my car THAT often, but the motor hasn't blown apart or shown any sign of problems at 30-33 psi.

 

[TSI 1.8 Alpha]

I have a question currently have an IE stage 1 tune on 93 Octane. With IE cold air intake and forge blow off valve. My auto 6speed when just in Drive shifts way to early and is boggy as anything. In S and Tiptronic it feels amazing. Is there a way I can change the auto rpm shift spots?

 

[Dog Dad Wagon]

I have a question currently have an IE stage 1 tune on 93 Octane. With IE cold air intake and forge blow off valve. My auto 6speed when just in Drive shifts way to early and is boggy as anything. In S and Tiptronic it feels amazing. Is there a way I can change the auto rpm shift spots?

I am not aware of any OTS tunes for the torque converter 6-speed automatic on the 1.8 Golfs.