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TTRS Brembo Upgrade Info

GolfRSR

New member
Location
Austria
Car(s)
MK7 GTD wagon & 7.5R
If someone is interested in other options of discs I can supply Carbopad discs. I guess nobody in the US heard from them but they are the "go-to" brake discs here in Germany if you need serious Racing or Trackday brake discs for VAG models. All the race shops at the Nordschleife (Raeder Motorsport/Manthey, 413 Motorsport, etc.) use them for upgrading the RS3/TTRS and Seat Leon Cupra brakes.


Carbopad is an OEM manufacturer (under a different name) and offers discs for

- TTRS 8J in 370 x 32mm (4 piston caliber)
- RS3 8P in 370 x 32mm (4 piston caliber)
- Seat Leon Cupra 370 x 32mm (4 pistons caliber, see picture attached)
- TTRS 8S 370 x 34mm (8 piston caliber)
- RS3 8V 370 x 34mm (8 piston caliber)
- Golf MK8R 356 x 34mm (2 piston caliber)


I personally will use the discs for my AP Racing 5000R brake setup
 

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MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
Minor update. As I state previously, my wife is out of town so I have limited time to work on my car with work and a 4 year old to look after...so sorry for this slow burn of a DIY install.

The zip tie was bothering me so...I wanted to get this resolved. I let the car sit with PB Blaster for the last 2 days on the hardline nut and...neither driver/passenger side would give.

Based on my extensive internet research, the next thing was to use heat. I've never had to use heat to break loose a bolt but it seems like now was a good time to get educating on this.

I bought a Bernzomatic starter kit from Home Depot which comes with a propane fuel tank (blue). The video I referenced earlier had to only heat their bolt for about 15 seconds and of course...it was not that easy for me. I would say after about 3-4 attempts for about 30 seconds each I was able to break loose the bolt. Similar times for both driver and passenger sides. Now I just wanted to loosen this bolt enough to get the bottom part of the SS brake line through the notch and then tighten from the nut.

Some of the coating from the hardline melted in the process so I will have to find something to coat it with as I'm concerned about rust. Any suggestions will be apprecatied.

I would say that there was still some resistance with the nut and I know for sure if/when I have to replace the brake line I will have the same issue. I may look into replacing both hardline.

I'll let the car sit overnight to make sure I have no leaks and then get to bleeding the calipers using a Motive Power Bleeder and hopefully don't discover any leaks there. I may not have an update for a few days though given how much time I have to work on my car.

Some pics:

Recents - 3 of 3.jpeg

Recents - 2 of 3.jpeg
Recents - 1 of 3.jpeg
 

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
Finally was able to bleed the brakes today and there were no leaks which I’m happy about. Took it for test drive around my block slowly to make sure everything was ok and so far so good.

I’ll have to bed them in to give true impressions which I will.

IMG_7335.jpeg
 

GolfRRRR1

Go Kart Champion
Location
Michigan
Finally was able to bleed the brakes today and there were no leaks which I’m happy about. Took it for test drive around my block slowly to make sure everything was ok and so far so good.

I’ll have to bed them in to give true impressions which I will.

View attachment 299467
Audi OEM pads yes?
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
If someone is interested in other options of discs I can supply Carbopad discs. I guess nobody in the US heard from them but they are the "go-to" brake discs here in Germany if you need serious Racing or Trackday brake discs for VAG models. All the race shops at the Nordschleife (Raeder Motorsport/Manthey, 413 Motorsport, etc.) use them for upgrading the RS3/TTRS and Seat Leon Cupra brakes.


Carbopad is an OEM manufacturer (under a different name) and offers discs for

- TTRS 8J in 370 x 32mm (4 piston caliber)
- RS3 8P in 370 x 32mm (4 piston caliber)
- Seat Leon Cupra 370 x 32mm (4 pistons caliber, see picture attached)
- TTRS 8S 370 x 34mm (8 piston caliber)
- RS3 8V 370 x 34mm (8 piston caliber)
- Golf MK8R 356 x 34mm (2 piston caliber)


I personally will use the discs for my AP Racing 5000R brake setup
How much are replacement discs for 370x32mm fitment?
 

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
Another update...I finally got around to my rear brakes since I was refreshing I've been on the original rotors and pads and I'm at 68k miles. For the rears I opted for Zimmerman rotors, TRW pads and Neuspeed stainless steel lines as well.

It's a good thing I decided to do the rear lines as it looks like I was on borrowed time as you will see in the pics below.

Now I took it for another test drive and the pedal was super soft. I mean it was a little soft on the test drive when I only did the fronts but after doing the rears...the pedal has to go down a lot further.

Now it did take me a little longer to swap the rear brake lines. Could that cause extra air to go into the system (ABS system people mention), meaning I would have to rebleed all 4 corners? I'm using a motive power bleeder at 30 PSI.

Not sure if it was in my head but when I went to restart my car to move it, after the initial drive, the brake peddle did seem slightly firmer.

My initial thought was to drive a round for a little bit and then do some ABS stops, then go back and rebleed at LF,RF, LR,RR as stated in the Macan thread here:

Braking Bleeding Procedure:
For some reason it's harder to get all the air out of the system with these calipers. Bleed the system LF, RF, LR, RR, then do multiple ABS stops. Give it a day or two, then do a 30 psi bleed LF, RF, LR, RR. If you bleed correctly, they are rock solid.


Pics of the rear line:

Recents - 1 of 2.jpeg
Recents - 2 of 2.jpeg
 
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MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
Minor update.

Took the car for a drive this morning as it was raining all day yesterday. The pedal definitely was too soft and while I did do some slightly aggressive braking, I decided to go home and rebleed the front and rear at 2bar/30psi LF,RF,LR,RR, with the front calipers going outer then inner for the dual bleeders.

Before starting the bleeding, I did notice 2 drops of fluid from the right rear this morning. I also noticed a smidge of fluid on the threads of the hardline to the SS line also on the right rear. I don’t know if that was from swapping the lines but I did clean up that area and made sure that connection was tight. I will continue to keep an eye on this.

While bleeding I checked all the lines for leaks and didn’t find any. On the LF, the outer caliper did have a lot of bubbles. It seemed to be the only caliper side with so much. I did see some bubbles all around the other calipers as I continued to bleed.

After all was done I took it for a drive and it was definetly better. It still feels a little soft but I attribute that to new rotors and pads front and rear. It’s what I remember experienced on similar brake jobs I’ve done.

I’m going to drive like normal this week to see how the brakes feel. I’m not sure about the bedding procedure of the pads since the for the front TTRS calipers I’m using the stock Brembo pads that was sent in the eBay kit.

For the rear I have some TRW’s that I believe are a hybrid of ceramic and semi metallic. I just may do some 60mph to 10mph stops but I’ll continue to search for bedding instructiones on the front and rear.

I’m not going to lie…these calipers and rotors look good to me. I’m not a fan of saying this but for the Golf R…it’s certainly the type of calipers/rotors that it should have came with from the factory.

Big shot to @krs again for his guidance. I’ll post another update later in the week.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
I’m going to drive like normal this week to see how the brakes feel. I’m not sure about the bedding procedure of the pads since the for the front TTRS calipers I’m using the stock Brembo pads that was sent in the eBay kit.

For the rear I have some TRW’s that I believe are a hybrid of ceramic and semi metallic. I just may do some 60mph to 10mph stops but I’ll continue to search for bedding instructiones on the front and rear.

I’m not going to lie…these calipers and rotors look good to me. I’m not a fan of saying this but for the Golf R…it’s certainly the type of calipers/rotors that it should have came with from the factory.

Big shot to @krs again for his guidance. I’ll post another update later in the week.
give the connection a good spray with brake cleaner, if it's wet again you should take steps asap.

they're fantastic, I think they should have been a hand-me-down as the 8s TTRS ended up getting even larger brakes. definitely something to distinguish it from the PP GTI.

weather today was finally nice enough to get mine bedded, I just do the usual go out and start threshold braking from 20, 30, 40, 50, etc. and let them cool off before making a complete stop if possible. doubt you have to do anything special for OEM-ish pads.
 

krs

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Car(s)
MKVIIS R
Minor update.

Took the car for a drive this morning as it was raining all day yesterday. The pedal definitely was too soft and while I did do some slightly aggressive braking, I decided to go home and rebleed the front and rear at 2bar/30psi LF,RF,LR,RR, with the front calipers going outer then inner for the dual bleeders.

Before starting the bleeding, I did notice 2 drops of fluid from the right rear this morning. I also noticed a smidge of fluid on the threads of the hardline to the SS line also on the right rear. I don’t know if that was from swapping the lines but I did clean up that area and made sure that connection was tight. I will continue to keep an eye on this.

While bleeding I checked all the lines for leaks and didn’t find any. On the LF, the outer caliper did have a lot of bubbles. It seemed to be the only caliper side with so much. I did see some bubbles all around the other calipers as I continued to bleed.

After all was done I took it for a drive and it was definetly better. It still feels a little soft but I attribute that to new rotors and pads front and rear. It’s what I remember experienced on similar brake jobs I’ve done.

I’m going to drive like normal this week to see how the brakes feel. I’m not sure about the bedding procedure of the pads since the for the front TTRS calipers I’m using the stock Brembo pads that was sent in the eBay kit.

For the rear I have some TRW’s that I believe are a hybrid of ceramic and semi metallic. I just may do some 60mph to 10mph stops but I’ll continue to search for bedding instructiones on the front and rear.

I’m not going to lie…these calipers and rotors look good to me. I’m not a fan of saying this but for the Golf R…it’s certainly the type of calipers/rotors that it should have came with from the factory.

Big shot to @krs again for his guidance. I’ll post another update later in the week.

Performance aside, they look great stuffed under the wheels.

Glad you’re making progress, sucks the fittings were seized, it’s always a drag to run into issues you weren’t expecting. But at least you know it’s cleaned up now.

🍻
 

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
give the connection a good spray with brake cleaner, if it's wet again you should take steps asap.

they're fantastic, I think they should have been a hand-me-down as the 8s TTRS ended up getting even larger brakes. definitely something to distinguish it from the PP GTI.

weather today was finally nice enough to get mine bedded, I just do the usual go out and start threshold braking from 20, 30, 40, 50, etc. and let them cool off before making a complete stop if possible. doubt you have to do anything special for OEM-ish pads.
Forgot to reply. Funny, I sort of forgot all about using brake cleaner and I had bought 2 cans and used up the first can. I should have been spraying down all these connections instead of trying to squeeze a blue paper towel to dry the threads...a brain fart for sure...Lol

I haven't yet checked that fitting but the brakes do seem to be operating better each day and I have not observed any leaks on the floor. I will do a visual check soon as I can though.

As I go about my daily drives which only consist of me taking my son to school and picking him up...not much driving yet but I will do some more this weekend. Brakes feel a little better each day though.
 

GolfRRRR1

Go Kart Champion
Location
Michigan
Struggling to get a mounting bracket for my TTRS calipers, I ended up buying a kit off Freaky Parts. It includes, new set of Brembo calipers (Renault Megane RS MK4 same pads as TTRS), custom bracket (for 340mm rotors), pads (various), lines and all necessary mounting hardware.
Did a test fit today with my Apex 17x8.5 SM-10 wheels and we have clearance!
I have the TTRS calipers and brackets on eBay, these were just simpler for me, but posting here as another option to the TTRS calipers.

IMG_8733.jpeg
IMG_8734.jpeg
IMG_8735.jpeg
 

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
Audi OEM pads yes?
I now remember that we have had conversations in the past about pads...specifically the TRW Ceramics for the Golf R front that got replaced by a slightly different compound from TRW. I never got a chance to try the newer verson since my TRW ceramics still had life left in them.

That said, for now I'm going to run the OEM Brembo pads that came with the TTRS kit. I'd really like to see how they perform and how much dust they create. I've been searching on the compound and I'm guessing it's a semi-metallic and will probably dust more than I would want for daily.

Since moving to south florida, I don't get the fun of the upstate mountain runs that will tax my brakes so I'm mostly likely going to run a low dust ceramic pad all year except for my trips to the Smoky Mountains for WITW.

On my OEM fronts I had TRW ceramics for dialy and Ferodo DS2500 for spirited driving that I got free.

I'm hearing good things, from the Macan thread, on running the Powerstop Z26's as a daily, ceramic pad. I've also heard good things in this forum about the Porterfield R4S pads which would seem to perform better than the Z26 and not dust much. With the Porterfield's maybe I won't need to switch to a more agreesive pad...not sure. Still reading. Lol

For now I'm just slowly breaking in this TTRS kit and I'm at around 120 miles of daily driving and each day the brakes seem to perform a little better. This weekend I may go out and do some bedding. I didn't find any for the Brembo OEM pads but I figure about 5 60-10 slow downs with time for them to cool should do.

@GolfRRRR1 what pads are you doing with for the TTRS setup?

Oh and for the rears I did blank Zimmerman coated rotors with TRW TXH1761 Ulta NAO Organic Compound pads
 
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