Track use coilovers

[victorofhavoc]

Just a little more insight on the SuperPro Endlinks. The spacer is for a stock strut or stock strut replacement applications. The stock struts are identical on both sides. The spacer makes up the tab offset distance on the right side. Coilovers typically use lower mounts that are side specific and as a result the spacer isn't needed.

Here's a pic of my BC BRs vs stock suspension.

I'm not sure I understand how that spacer fits into the picture here...

 

[victorofhavoc]

okay, i see what you're saying now. I would think that the link could articulate enough for the spacer to still not be necessary, but I don't have those endlinks. Maybe they're shorter or something?

I do like my rear superpro endlinks, they're miles ahead of the stock plastic stuff. The plastic ones split down the middle for me where the seam for them was.

 

[SouthFL_Mk7.5]

I wish I had my stock parts here. I'll try to explain/visualize it with my spare BC parts. For reference the bottle cap is pointing to the front of the car.

Stock Front Left

Stock Front Right

The spacer makes it so the endlinks are more even in length and preload on a stock style shock.
Front Left

Front Right

Most coilovers are side specific and have the tab either centered on the shock or offset to the same side

As a result if you leave the spacer on the endlinks now end up incorrectly adjusted. The spacer will likely cause the endlink to hit the inner fender

Nice explanation!

 

[victorofhavoc]

So this weekend, with barely anyone out on the roads on a coronavirus filled Sunday evening, I decided to go to a couple roundabouts and clover on/off ramps near me to test out the new alignment and corner balance on my PSS10. I played with some adjustments, but ultimately I'm limited by being on my street tires (gmax as05). The good news is with the tires being a pretty hard limit, it's easy to tell how it's balanced without having to push it to more extreme G activity. With the spare, sub, all trunk stuff removed, rear seats folded, I was able to get the car to really bite on the front end and rotate with relative ease with the brake. I set fronts to 4 soft and rears to 5, and that was mostly tolerable on the road. Some potholes and manholes feel like craters, but they're well absorbed and nothing feels like a car crash (the springs always felt like a car crash).

The mechanical grip difference is astounding. No the all season gmax don't feel like a yoko a052, but once they warm up a bit, they definitely feel a lot closer to the ultra high performance and max performance summer category now. Steering feels a bit more direct for sure.

For anyone wondering, corner balance is different by 5-7mm per corner, so that means the stock car is pretty even left to right, but has a fine amount of adjustment to get it exactly even. I would say if you can't tell that the stock car turns right more easily than left, the corner balance isn't super worth it for you and just setting a height to give ~15mm of rake would be a great starting point with good balance.

 

[SouthFL_Mk7.5]

So this weekend, with barely anyone out on the roads on a coronavirus filled Sunday evening, I decided to go to a couple roundabouts and clover on/off ramps near me to test out the new alignment and corner balance on my PSS10. I played with some adjustments, but ultimately I'm limited by being on my street tires (gmax as05). The good news is with the tires being a pretty hard limit, it's easy to tell how it's balanced without having to push it to more extreme G activity. With the spare, sub, all trunk stuff removed, rear seats folded, I was able to get the car to really bite on the front end and rotate with relative ease with the brake. I set fronts to 4 soft and rears to 5, and that was mostly tolerable on the road. Some potholes and manholes feel like craters, but they're well absorbed and nothing feels like a car crash (the springs always felt like a car crash).

The mechanical grip difference is astounding. No the all season gmax don't feel like a yoko a052, but once they warm up a bit, they definitely feel a lot closer to the ultra high performance and max performance summer category now. Steering feels a bit more direct for sure.

For anyone wondering, corner balance is different by 5-7mm per corner, so that means the stock car is pretty even left to right, but has a fine amount of adjustment to get it exactly even. I would say if you can't tell that the stock car turns right more easily than left, the corner balance isn't super worth it for you and just setting a height to give ~15mm of rake would be a great starting point with good balance.

This is great information on the settings. What top hat are you using up front?

 

[victorofhavoc]

This is great information on the settings. What top hat are you using up front?

The 034 dynamic+ mounts. I'm at -2.3 camber, but I want more. Eventually I think I'll try the vorshlag mounts and css swivels, but we'll see.

 

[Gvazquez]

The 034 dynamic+ mounts. I'm at -2.3 camber, but I want more. Eventually I think I'll try the vorshlag mounts and css swivels, but we'll see.

I would be careful with the vorshlag plates in pss10 coilovers. Someone on here had that combo and it damaged the bilstein strut. I dont remember exactly how but I think it was Navi

 

[Mini7]

Navi has never had Vorshlag camber plates to my knowledge. His strut shaft sheared at the top nut for some reason.

Something to be aware of with camber plates, is clearance of the sway bar tab to the inner fender. I suspect that my SuperPro endlinks may be contacting the fender slightly at full lock during parking maneuvers. There is a spot where the rubber body sealer has been knicked.

I did not fit the spacer supplied with the kit. When maxing out camber that spacer would more than likely make contact with the inner fender. In my case at least with -2.5 degrees of camber.

The spacer also magnifies the torque placed on the tab by acting as a cantilever and when combined with a thicker front sway bar, it may be placing too much stress on the tab. Heck it could have been a shitty weld that made it past quality control.

 

[GTIfan99]

I'm at -2.4 with Eurosport camber kit and 1.1" drop on a GTI. I'll planning on slotting the upper mounting holes to get more if there's room. I'm not doing LCA in conjunction with the camber kit because I'm trying to straddle staying STH legal and building a TT and track car, so I'm willing to compromise some. Old BMW's had slotted holes like that, in my experience, if you rough up the surfaces that are touching, it holds fine without slipping.

 

[jmason]

Installation of the CSS swivels moves the tab inboard as well. In my experience (CSS swivel combined with the original SuperPro LCA that moved the wheel well forward), you can only use a strut that has a tab that is the same dimension as stock. A tab design that increases the length of the tab may cause problems. All of this is with OEM top mount.

 

[victorofhavoc]

yeah, no matter what, getting -3.5 camber out of this front end will be a challenge...

 

[Mini7]

It would be nice to have a LCA that moves lower outer pickup to gain camber and clearance that way. My only concern would be the CV joints.

There is not a lot of meat left around the SuperPro LCA outer ball joint holes to slot them.

 

[Mini7]

Installation of the CSS swivels moves the tab inboard as well. In my experience (CSS swivel combined with the original SuperPro LCA that moved the wheel well forward), you can only use a strut that has a tab that is the same dimension as stock. A tab design that increases the length of the tab may cause problems. All of this is with OEM top mount.

I had to grind down the mounting tab on my AST’s on my Mini to get the clearance I needed to clear the brake hardline bracket on the inner fender.

I may have to do the same with my Ohlins mounting tab to clear the inner fender when I install my CSS swivels. I have the later 018k LCA from SuperPro.

 

[greekspec2]

 

[Gvazquez]

That looks awesome. How are those clubsport coilovers treating you so far? Looks like a serious track build