@DerHase - do you use these RS3 backing plates?
8V0-615-311-B (Left)
8V0-615-312-B (Right)
What do people do for backing plates when they run a BBK?
Also, why do you mention only considering AP (
Essex?) & Willwood BBKs and not something from
Racingline,
APR, etc? Are any of these other ones good?
Yep, those are the PNs. I went a lot more in depth with what was needed to fit them on the DDMQB facebook page, it'll eventually make it's way into it's own article on the website though:
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/qMazxqC4hHfFnfL2/
Old brake article on the website... with some photos of my droopy wheel speed sensors. Lots of little tips for getting the most out of your pads on track.
https://www.datadrivenmqb.com/brakes/ppbrakeprep
Before this past weekend I also threw some Golf R fender liners on (larger brake duct openings) and the newer 8Y RS3 brake scoops on the LCAs (my old 8V ones had a crack/hole punched in one side).
I don't screw around with brakes - not the place to put China garbage on your car IMO.
@tigeo has APR's old BBK... but since they discontinued it, finding parts is a chore. Plus they have non-studded caliper brackets... so the giant bolts you torque the caliper onto the bracket with are straight into aluminum, which stripped on him. They didn't even bother to put a steel insert... so not exactly smart design IMO.
VWR has an absolutely shit design on their 2pc discs... instead of the bobbins being solid mounted in the hat and allowing float in the iron rotor, the bobbins mount solid to the iron ring and float in the hat. Having stuff slide-hammer back and forth on an aluminum supposedly non-wear part is just dumb.
If there's anything I've found tracking these cars, it's that 90% of aftermarket parts are complete trash and in no way suitable for actual motorsport use, let alone properly designed.
Every off the shelf oil cooler kit is garbage - throw away anything that is -8AN if you don't want to risk destroying an engine. The VWR kit comes with a cooler sized to to only take care of a 90hp car. Everyone tells you to mount the oil cooler on the pass side grille... which is the absolute worst possible place to do it. Keeps oil cool, but then overheats your coolant and IATs skyrocket unless you duct it properly. Me and
@Redslaya solved that issue here:
https://www.datadrivenmqb.com/drivetrain/duct-final-testing
AP Racing/Essex is solid, though if you have 18in wheels I'd call them up and ask about the RS3 sized brakes (380mm). IMO the 529 Wilwoods are probably the better buy for consumable costs... pads are cheaper and Peter's kits use off the shelf Girodisc fitments (so it costs $650-750 for a pair of rotor rings, not $1200-1300 for AP).
This video pertains to spotting counterfeit AP/Essex stuff, but it's really good for knowing some stuff to look for design-wise as well:
Sorry if that kind of came off as a rant... but most stuff for these cars is garbage in general.