Track Pads for MK7.5 R

[MonkeyMD]

Are you just trying to get me to buy M3bs1’s pads? Lol

I mean, they do work pretty well. I've had 4 track days on then and 8 AutoX. Also daily them which they're not perfect for (just the squealing) & have half the pad left on the front. Much more on the rear.

Also for ST40, which may be different for PP brakes, they're $215 vs $315 DS 3.12. For some reason the XP10 rears are more expensive at $280.

Only negative is you can lock up 200 TW tires very easily. You will need to relearn braking modulation.

Putting them to the test...

 

[pcacayman]

I mean, they do work pretty well. I've had 4 track days on then and 8 AutoX. Also daily them which they're not perfect for (just the squealing) & have half the pad left on the front. Much more on the rear.

Also for ST40, which may be different for PP brakes, they're $215 vs $315 DS 3.12. For some reason the XP10 rears are more expensive at $280.

Only negative is you can lock up 200 TW tires very easily. You will need to relearn braking modulation.

Putting them to

Thanks for the info! I have NT01’s on Apex wheels ready and I’m going to ease into driving the car hard since I have no idea how it will handle but I don’t think a matching brake pad set shouldn’t lock up tires, the ABS system should still function, unless you turn it off with a VCDS (if that’s even possible)

 

[MonkeyMD]

Thanks for the info! I have NT01’s on Apex wheels ready and I’m going to ease into driving the car hard since I have no idea how it will handle but I don’t think a matching brake pad set shouldn’t lock up tires, the ABS system should still function, unless you turn it off with a VCDS (if that’s preventing possible)

AFAIK ABS usually only activates when pushing the pedal all the way down. So when you're threshold braking, ABS is not active. But my info may be outdated

 

[gboticus]

This is great info. I've been using DS1.11F and DS2500R and it's been sufficient but had my eyes on DS3.12 since last year's brake issues.

Glad I didn't go that route (yet) as I still would have had DS2500 in the rears and yeah, that could have been sketch. I do want to go there but dread swapping the rear pads and front pads for track prep each time (yes, lazy).

 

[pcacayman]

This is great info. I've been using DS1.11F and DS2500R and it's been sufficient but had my eyes on DS3.12 since last year's brake issues.

Glad I didn't go that route (yet) as I still would have had DS2500 in the rears and yeah, that could have been sketch. I do want to go there but dread swapping the rear pads and front pads for track prep each time (yes, lazy).

I just ordered my Ferodo pads from speedfreaksusa (https://speedfreaksusa.com/). They offer free shipping and they haven't updated their catalogue yet so the pads are about $100 cheaper than everywhere else (for both front and rear together). The rep I spoke to said he would honor the prices until he gets a chance to update them. After speaking with 2 Ferodo resellers apparently on Jan 1, 2023 Ferodo upped their prices.

I went with these, based on several recommendations.

Front - FCP4425G

Rear - FCP4697W

 

[scrllock]

How much did they charge for FCP4697W?

 

[pcacayman]

How much did they charge for FCP4697W?

They are still pricey but still ~$100 cheaper than all others I found.

Quantity: 1
Item: Ferodo FCP4425G DS3-12 Brake Pads (FCP4425G)

Unit Price: $423.79
Total Price: $423.79
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quantity: 1
Item: Ferodo FCP4697W DS1-11 Brake Pads (FCP4697W)

Unit Price: $310.92
Total Price: $310.92

 

[pcacayman]

@Redslaya bums my VCDS cable every time

I ordered the 3 VIN VCDS, I may be reaching out for help

 

[R Golf]

This is great info. I've been using DS1.11F and DS2500R and it's been sufficient but had my eyes on DS3.12 since last year's brake issues.

Glad I didn't go that route (yet) as I still would have had DS2500 in the rears and yeah, that could have been sketch. I do want to go there but dread swapping the rear pads and front pads for track prep each time (yes, lazy).

I do about 8-11 HPDE events each year, and I have tried a ton of different setups over the years. Tires are Falken RT660's.

I find the DS3.12 front and DS2500 rear to be the best by far for me. I have not had any of the ABS issues at all on track, and absolutely love the 3.12's. So, I guess YMMV. The 3.12's are expensive, but their wear rate is fantastic, and they have consistent grip throughout a hard driving day. Their cold grip is really good as well on the street. I know all the disclaimers not to use them on the street, but I think that is just Ferodo covering themselves. Check out the Mu graphs that Ferodo puts out, and you will see they are comparable to the DS2500's at street temps. The big difference is that they are wildly better at the track when they heat up.

Regarding the DS1.11s, I don't swap pads between track and street and found the DS1.11's to be screamingly loud. The DS3.12's also perform better on track. I notice almost no difference with the 1.11's on the rears vs. the DS2500's.

 

[pcacayman]

I do about 8-11 HPDE events each year, and I have tried a ton of different setups over the years. Tires are Falken RT660's.

I find the DS3.12 front and DS2500 rear to be the best by far for me. I have not had any of the ABS issues at all on track, and absolutely love the 3.12's. So, I guess YMMV. The 3.12's are expensive, but their wear rate is fantastic, and they have consistent grip throughout a hard driving day. Their cold grip is really good as well on the street. I know all the disclaimers not to use them on the street, but I think that is just Ferodo covering themselves. Check out the Mu graphs that Ferodo puts out, and you will see they are comparable to the DS2500's at street temps. The big difference is that they are wildly better at the track when they heat up.

Regarding the DS1.11s, I don't swap pads between track and street and found the DS1.11's to be screamingly loud. The DS3.12's also perform better on track. I notice almost no difference with the 1.11's on the rears vs. the DS2500's.

glad to hear you had good success with the 2500’s on the back. You’re one of the few I’ll report back on the 3.12 and 1.11 braking feel and wear after a few DE’s.

 

[gboticus]

FWIW, DS2500 were sufficient when you're novice to low intermediate. At least in the cooler climate of the PNW for track days. As soon as I started pushing for PB's and into the advanced groups is when the 2500s would fade and wear exponentially faster.

 

[R Golf]

FWIW, DS2500 were sufficient when you're novice to low intermediate. At least in the cooler climate of the PNW for track days. As soon as I started pushing for PB's and into the advanced groups is when the 2500s would fade and wear exponentially faster.

I run hard in advanced and have instructed with various groups for over 20 year, and just don't have a problem. Definitely warmer weather would cause differences. Very good point.

As a matter of fact I try not to run during hottest summer months and focus on Spring/fall days. I definitely should have mentioned that. I very rarely run above 80 degree temps.

 

[JPB WORLDWIDE]

Chiming in as this will be the first year tracking my R after running my old GTI for a few years.

1. My speed shop has told me countless times not to swap pads on the same rotors, is this something you all have experimented with, with success??

I ran hawk pads on the GTI and hated them. OK when heated but off track were shit. I’m ok swapping rotors with track pads for the season, so I’m looking for an intermediate setup that will be efficient on tracks with the highest speed zone of about 125. All of the numbers and decimals are great (lol) but I’m only hearing this one setup as something suitable atm.

Anyone else?

 

[scrllock]

Chiming in as this will be the first year tracking my R after running my old GTI for a few years.

1. My speed shop has told me countless times not to swap pads on the same rotors, is this something you all have experimented with, with success??

I ran hawk pads on the GTI and hated them. OK when heated but off track were shit. I’m ok swapping rotors with track pads for the season, so I’m looking for an intermediate setup that will be efficient on tracks with the highest speed zone of about 125. All of the numbers and decimals are great (lol) but I’m only hearing this one setup as something suitable atm.

Anyone else?

usually you can get away with it if you're using the same vendor's pads. if you're changing you can scrub with the old pads but definitely better to take off the rotor and sand it down at least. some vendors will tell you specifically not to use fresh pads on fresh rotors, so I don't know how else you're supposed to do it (besides paying for pre-burnished pads).

hawk doesn't really make any serious track pads for our rear calipers, so I've ruled them out personally.

 

[SouthFL_Mk7.5]

This is one reason why I use Porterfield R4 (track specific) and Porterfield R4S (street/autox/light track) as the compound is interchangeable. The R4 take over track duty up front and the R4S are adequate in back on the track. For street and autox the R4S are on front and back. I’ve even run the R4S on all corners at Sebring but with limiting them to 20 minutes per session. With the R4 up front I can stay out as long as I want and brake as late and hard as I wish.