Track Approved Catch Cans

[Handguns4heaRTs]

what I am confused about is that most the kits that have a full pcv replacement plate, replace the cyclonic separator and block off the return breather. Options that are just a can rearrange the breather return so that it goes into the can, then back into TIP. But some full plate kits(IE) retain the factory breather return hose, while some can only kits(ecs) block off the breather return.

 

[scrllock]

what I am confused about is that most the kits that have a full pcv replacement plate, replace the cyclonic separator and block off the return breather. Options that are just a can rearrange the breather return so that it goes into the can, then back into TIP. But some full plate kits(IE) retain the factory breather return hose, while some can only kits(ecs) block off the breather return.

What do you mean by return breather?
The can only ECS kit doesn't block anything off. It just re-routes the return hose. The spulen and VWR designs block off the return on the head itself. So does IE. There's a couple plates with that design (IE) but I haven't heard of anyone's experience with tracking or high boost on them.

 

[Handguns4heaRTs]

What do you mean by return breather?
The can only ECS kit doesn't block anything off. It just re-routes the return hose. The spulen and VWR designs block off the return on the head itself. So does IE. There's a couple plates with that design (IE) but I haven't heard of anyone's experience with tracking or high boost on them.

Return breather is the hose that goes into the TIP on factory system. You’re right about the ecs, they include a plate, but it’s just a re route. I was also wrong about the IE one- it just doesn’t reroute the breather return. I’m leaning toward that one. For reference, I don’t get big smoke clouds, but I get oil in cylinder 4.

 

[scrllock]

Return breather is the hose that goes into the TIP on factory system. You’re right about the ecs, they include a plate, but it’s just a re route. I was also wrong about the IE one- it just doesn’t reroute the breather return. I’m leaning toward that one. For reference, I don’t get big smoke clouds, but I get oil in cylinder 4.

I'd love to hear about your experience with it. The only reviews I've seen are from the product page and they are certainly mixed.

 

[victorofhavoc]

The setup and hose length look similar to the ECS setup. Must of missed it while searching around. I'm glad you've had success. I'm tempted to give the BMS kit a try as I did notice blow by in the charge pipes when installing my FMIC.

How often would you say you have to empty the can with street driving and on the track?

4 months of street driving with some aggressive right turns (coming into my neighborhood I almost always pick up a wheel because I do it so much) will yield a light amount of oil in the can. On track, after 8 sessions, the can is about 1/3rd full of oil. About half a cup or so.

Yes, even if the can-only option was a general solution for track use (apparently it is for your car and your track!), I wouldn't encourage someone to bother if they plan on street-driving. Both of the hardest braking zones at my local track are right-handers, I've watched unprepped GTIs blow smoke there on can-only setups (one was Forge, not sure of their PCV revisions).

While an oil pan with aggressive baffles (iABED, not the Aliexpress aluminum design) is also a good idea, I don't think it helps with the high-g oil clouds. That's caused by excess oil dumping down into the manifold, not a lack of oil being picked up from the pan. As for the return, I've spent a bunch of time looking into options and I've only seen one person successfully drain into the pan, and that was with an enormous custom VTA can. Others have used the dipstick tube as a drain (to be above oil level), but your can drain has to be quite high up for that to work. One guy who had some success:
View attachment 238060



See my reply earlier in the thread. In addition to that, my big worry with the spulen plate is that the baffle bolts in from the bottom. If those bolts are ever dislodged, they go somewhere I do not want loose bolts going.

The reason a baffled pan helps with oil surge in high G is because there's a baffle that blocks the oil return so that oil can't slosh at it and work its way up the return. If the oil can't make it up the return to the manifold or the vap return then it can't dump into the combustion chamber.

 

[donefor]

Just get the VWR solution, it works under the heaviest braking on R comps and tight turns at ten tenths. Those who balk at the cost should perhaps get a different hobby

 

[victorofhavoc]

Those who balk at the cost should perhaps get a different hobby

Honestly there's a lot of sad truth in this statement. 600$ for a baffled pan, $800 for tires, and generally 500$ random spends are all well within "cheap" for track time today. My first track weekend this year is costing me over $4600, not including the big maintenance this spring for the tow rig.

I've heard the vwr plate screws can come loose and disappear.

 

[krs]

Dang, the ECS kit has been delayed since I ordered back in December. The ship date had been Feb 4th, now they just bumped it to April 4th.

 

[GTIfan99]

Honestly there's a lot of sad truth in this statement. 600$ for a baffled pan, $800 for tires, and generally 500$ random spends are all well within "cheap" for track time today. My first track weekend this year is costing me over $4600, not including the big maintenance this spring for the tow rig.

I've heard the vwr plate screws can come loose and disappear.

I think that's an oversimplification.

First, some people have rules they have to follow for classes.

Second, I've always subscribed to the OEM+ mind set of using the best OEM parts available before looking to the aftermarket. I find OEM parts fit right and mostly hold up better.

Obviously not possible for some parts, but it is for a lot of things.

 

[victorofhavoc]

I think that's an oversimplification.

First, some people have rules they have to follow for classes.

Second, I've always subscribed to the OEM+ mind set of using the best OEM parts available before looking to the aftermarket. I find OEM parts fit right and mostly hold up better.

Obviously not possible for some parts, but it is for a lot of things.

Forgive me, this sounds like disagreement, but I'm not sure to what?

I agree with both of your points 100%.

 

[GTIfan99]

Forgive me, this sounds like disagreement, but I'm not sure to what?

I agree with both of your points 100%.

I think the overall theme I'm getting from the previous few posts is you have to throw a bunch of money at your car to track and you're lacking somehow if you don't. If that isn't the case, I apologize.

If you want to hammer a car on track every lap for 40 minutes, yeah, you're going to need a lot of work, but even with a pretty mild setup, you can lay down some good laps, and you can back off a little when you see those oil temps climbing or start to really boil fluid.

 

[victorofhavoc]

I think the overall theme I'm getting from the previous few posts is you have to throw a bunch of money at your car to track and you're lacking somehow if you don't. If that isn't the case, I apologize.

If you want to hammer a car on track every lap for 40 minutes, yeah, you're going to need a lot of work, but even with a pretty mild setup, you can lay down some good laps, and you can back off a little when you see those oil temps climbing or start to really boil fluid.

I totally agree with you. I think a reasonable amount to expect to spend on a car like a GTI for a season of track use (6-8 events) is about 5-6k. This coming year I think will be more expensive because the theme seems to be for everything jumping in cost; two tire hikes, events jumping 50-100$, general hotel/travel costs.

Sorry if my comment came off the wrong way. What I actually think is that as people spend more time with the sport they get accustomed to certain luxuries and all of these things are starting to creep in cost. Like stay in a hotel vs camping at the track. I really don't think 500$ random spends are unreasonable anymore, and that's unfortunate. Drop a wheel on the wrong gator and you might be getting a tow to paddock and replacing a tire and rim. For several people I know that's a $1k+ mistake. I just think we all know our reality and comfort level, and certain on track incidents may cost us a whole season. It's not unwise to always be planning for that unexpected expense, at least to keep the season going

 

[GTIfan99]

I agree, part of the issue is I live within 2 hours of 3 tracks, so I might be a little spoiled, I thought you were talking just about car parts.

For the married folks, I schedule farther events around taking my wife to do something fun. Doing a track day at Road Atlanta? Take your wife to the aquarium and a nice dinner.

Las Vegas Motor Speedway, get hooker and have a threesome.

 

[Handguns4heaRTs]

If you want to hammer a car on track every lap for 40 minutes, yeah, you're going to need a lot of work, but even with a pretty mild setup, you can lay down some good laps, and you can back off a little when you see those oil temps climbing or start to really boil fluid.

Yes, but then you have some JDM fuckboi in a 95 civic bearing down on you, and being the gentleman you are, give them a point by, which is then never returned, and your session is ruined... #oddlyspecific

 

[Lord_Flexington]

Honestly there's a lot of sad truth in this statement. 600$ for a baffled pan, $800 for tires, and generally 500$ random spends are all well within "cheap" for track time today. My first track weekend this year is costing me over $4600, not including the big maintenance this spring for the tow rig.

I've heard the vwr plate screws can come loose and disappear.

Yea thats basically what it comes to.

Spulen setup getting ready for year 5 of abuse but I'm adding the baffeled oil pan from iabed. lets see how she does.