Timing chain jumped...150,350 miles

[jimlloyd40]

Or learn how to DIY maintenance. Well that and blaming cheap parts. There's debate about when to change oil on these because spec oils will test OK at VW intervals but I've read that the chain tensioner doesn't care for the amount of carbon buildup in the oil with 10k changes. I did my 1st change at 2k and 4k later it's already pretty dark. I'll be doing twice a year on a jb4 only car which will be about 6k changes.

That said, Good Luck going forward.

Dark doesn't mean the oil doesn't have usefull life left. You would need a UOA to determine it. But I change my oil every 4K miles regardless of life left.

 

[goodvibes]

I said that the oil will test OK at VW intervals in the post you quoted so I get it but UOAs don't test for carbon. Particulates if you like but to a certain size. You can also get favorable UOAs and have a less than clean motor on tear down. UOAs are better for protecting against developing issues. Turbo motors produce more carbon. My 1st 2 fills were factory 5w40 and Mobil 0w40 at 2k but I'll be switching to castrol 0w40 for the added PAO over group 3 that is less temp resistant and it has less calcium than Mobil fo potentially better lspi. It just always tests well. 6k changes are hardly being anal about. Just a bit of extra precaution on a turbo with a JB4. I happened to read a tech that knows these motors got better longevity on the chain tensioner but doing 5k changes and what the tensioners looked like when replaced. That said, the tensioners haven been redesigned a few times since 2015 and are supposedly less problematic. I used semi synth on my last non turbo car for 7.5k intervals so horses for courses. Ran great at 100k when I traded it.

 

[dosjockey]

Dark doesn't mean the oil doesn't have usefull life left. You would need a UOA to determine it. But I change my oil every 4K miles regardless of life left.

The oil can still be good, certainly. How much that carbon bothers someone depends on how long they want the engine to go before needing a rebuild. There is a point where it is not cost-effective, and I've been there; but in my case I considered it worth the headache on one car.

Funny thing is, on that former overland vehicle, I changed the oil amber every time since new; at least every 2,000 miles, or before and after every long trip; whichever came first. After 400 miles of break-in on conventional Castrol, it went to Amsoil 25,000; and I still drained it amber. Every other oil change, one quart of very mild flush (whatever's on the shelf that can be left in the oil at that time) was run through with a full compliment higher detergent synthetic, drained, and then sold to a guy who buys that vehicle's used oil for his own cars. Then, in went the next load of Amsoil. The filter was changed at those times, as well. No need to do it every change when they're that frequent, so I did it every other change; and didn't run the thing dry in the process.

A while back the lower radiator hose blew out on a test drive after some work, and it blew a head gasket. So, naturally the engine was opened up to see what the damage was. It ended up sitting for a few years when I got sick, and there's some aluminum corrosion that needs to be sorted as a result (the engine will be 100% rebuilt soon, with new liners and all), but here's the thing...

140,000 miles, with tens of thousands of hard overland use, some racing, everyday driving... It's probably got close to 40,000 off-pavement, which is harsh as hell. When that top end came off the engine, some amazement was passed around.

It was spotless! The aluminum hadn't even been stained gold. It looked brand spanking new. Compression was perfect, push rods were fine, valves were still immaculately sealed, and the injectors may as well have just come out of the box (regular cleaner). Outside, it had clearly been dirty, and was looking a bit tired with the dustings of white oxidation and some plastic at end of life; but inside it was brand spanking new. The only real evidence that it was used for any length of time was about a thimble of sludge in the oil pan.

Funny how it's a twenty year old Land Rover Discovery II with an immaculate engine with other things aging around it. If it hadn't been for that hose, I'm sure my rebuild would have gone as scheduled at 200,000 miles. Told myself I'd do that when I bought it. I'm still driving it right now alternately with the Golf even though it eats coolant; but I'm keeping an eye on the condition to ensure nothing is being damaged.

As noted, it's going to get all the attention it could ever want soon. Gonna cost a fortune in relation to value, but getting that car new again is kind of like a step toward getting me new again.

 

[jimlloyd40]

The oil can still be good, certainly. How much that carbon bothers someone depends on how long they want the engine to go before needing a rebuild. There is a point where it is not cost-effective, and I've been there; but in my case I considered it worth the headache on one car.

Funny thing is, on that former overland vehicle, I changed the oil amber every time since new; at least every 2,000 miles, or before and after every long trip; whichever came first. After 400 miles of break-in on conventional Castrol, it went to Amsoil 25,000; and I still drained it amber. Every other oil change, one quart of very mild flush (whatever's on the shelf that can be left in the oil at that time) was run through with a full compliment higher detergent synthetic, drained, and then sold to a guy who buys that vehicle's used oil for his own cars. Then, in went the next load of Amsoil. The filter was changed at those times, as well. No need to do it every change when they're that frequent, so I did it every other change; and didn't run the thing dry in the process.

A while back the lower radiator hose blew out on a test drive after some work, and it blew a head gasket. So, naturally the engine was opened up to see what the damage was. It ended up sitting for a few years when I got sick, and there's some aluminum corrosion that needs to be sorted as a result (the engine will be 100% rebuilt soon, with new liners and all), but here's the thing...

140,000 miles, with tens of thousands of hard overland use, some racing, everyday driving... It's probably got close to 40,000 off-pavement, which is harsh as hell. When that top end came off the engine, some amazement was passed around.

It was spotless! The aluminum hadn't even been stained gold. It looked brand spanking new. Compression was perfect, push rods were fine, valves were still immaculately sealed, and the injectors may as well have just come out of the box (regular cleaner). Outside, it had clearly been dirty, and was looking a bit tired with the dustings of white oxidation and some plastic at end of life; but inside it was brand spanking new. The only real evidence that it was used for any length of time was about a thimble of sludge in the oil pan.

Funny how it's a twenty year old Land Rover Discovery II with an immaculate engine with other things aging around it. If it hadn't been for that hose, I'm sure my rebuild would have gone as scheduled at 200,000 miles. Told myself I'd do that when I bought it. I'm still driving it right now alternately with the Golf even though it eats coolant; but I'm keeping an eye on the condition to ensure nothing is being damaged.

As noted, it's going to get all the attention it could ever want soon. Gonna cost a fortune in relation to value, but getting that car new again is kind of like a step toward getting me new again.

I wasn't suggesting going longer intervals between oil changes. Just pointing out that dark doesn't necessarily indicate no life left. I got my GTI new and changed the oil at 1000 miles and then at 4000 miles and every 4000 miles after. When I get to 100,000 miles I'll start changing it every 3000 miles which will be in about 6 months on my 18 SE.

 

[vdubguy29]

Good luck on the test but I'm sure that you will do well.

Hey thanks brother I appreciate it

 

[dosjockey]

I wasn't suggesting going longer intervals between oil changes. Just pointing out that dark doesn't necessarily indicate no life left. I got my GTI new and changed the oil at 1000 miles and then at 4000 miles and every 4000 miles after. When I get to 100,000 miles I'll start changing it every 3000 miles which will be in about 6 months on my 18 SE.

Oh, yeah. I'm in agreement. Modern synthetic can take a hell of a beating before it's out of specification from it's own point of view.

For most car ownership experiences, changing at 10,000 miles with whatever VW says to use won't cause a single issue. The car will go through several owners before it ever becomes a problem.

If two hundred bucks a year or so right now will keep that Golf working properly well past the point at which an engine problem effectively totals it, though, I'll do it; if only to keep it out of the scrap yard later on.

I'm of the opinion that early maintenance is the difference between the ragged out Pontiac Sunbird you saw on the road last month and the other tens of thousands of them that have been crushed or are otherwise rusting away in disuse. Imports are less likely to hit that point in any nation, but it happens. The car's value drops so far that it's not worth repairing. I think early maintenance can be the difference between that happening at 300,000 miles instead of 200,000 miles.

It's just my little attempt at offsetting a bit of production down the road. I don't think the truth of the matter can really be proven either way, but it makes sense to me. Over the term of my life, it's not a vast expense.