thoughts on DKM STAGE 3 CLUTCH

[Anthony3o55]

What’s your thoughts on the DKM stage 3 clutch as a DD. Im considering stage 2 tune and would like to have a clutch that set and done.

If I install the DKM stage 3 clutch, add a Fluidampner and iAbed rear seal will it reduce my chances of crank walk? Im not passing 400HP or TQ

 

[Ridebjj]

I don't think a fluidampr or new rms is going to make any difference regarding crank walk.

The one and only thing I've ever seen hypothesized to reduce the possibility of walk is being able to start the car without having to press the clutch.

At the risk of looking like a shameless self promotor, see the link in my sig.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

I don't think a fluidampr or new rms is going to make any difference regarding crank walk.

The one and only thing I've ever seen hypothesized to reduce the possibility of walk is being able to start the car without having to press the clutch.

At the risk of looking like a shameless self promotor, see the link in my sig.

that reminds me, i should get to that install already... lol

 

[Nissanskylinen1]

Don't Kill Me

 

[Ridebjj]

that reminds me, i should get to that install already... lol

 

[GTI Jake]

Ye ol clutch review. Two years after this video was shot I’ve got nothing different to say about it.

Also, you see a lot more issues caused by replacing the crank pulley & RMS. Anti broke, don’t fix it!

 

[davcohen]

Very grippy clutch but the chatter is pretty annoying especially with the AC on

 

[2slowvw]

I like that it doesnt slip like my tired DIY TTRS clutch did, so thats a plus. It's mostly quiet but with the AC on it defenitly chatters. After 1000 miles, it doesn't feel heavier than most other performance after market clutches. For me personally, the 1>2 shift is hard to do smoothly under hard acceleration. I need to redo my shifter alignment though so it can be that.

If you are doing the install yourself, the 30 or whatever bolts holding it all together is tiring on your arms and patience and should be locktite and not overly torqued because the bolts will round. Make sure oyu bench bleed the throw out bearing and rebleed the clutch once installed or else you will have a bad time.

Overall I would give it a 8.5/10 right now and would buy it again.

 

[JerseyDrew77]

I like that it doesnt slip like my tired DIY TTRS clutch did, so thats a plus. It's mostly quiet but with the AC on it defenitly chatters. After 1000 miles, it doesn't feel heavier than most other performance after market clutches. For me personally, the 1>2 shift is hard to do smoothly under hard acceleration. I need to redo my shifter alignment though so it can be that.

If you are doing the install yourself, the 30 or whatever bolts holding it all together is tiring on your arms and patience and should be locktite and not overly torqued because the bolts will round. Make sure oyu bench bleed the throw out bearing and rebleed the clutch once installed or else you will have a bad time.

Overall I would give it a 8.5/10 right now and would buy it again.

Yes, major point here is that you have to use Loctite to those 30 bolts and torque them down with the correct specs.

 

[uberdot]

I like that it doesnt slip like my tired DIY TTRS clutch did, so thats a plus. It's mostly quiet but with the AC on it defenitly chatters. After 1000 miles, it doesn't feel heavier than most other performance after market clutches. For me personally, the 1>2 shift is hard to do smoothly under hard acceleration. I need to redo my shifter alignment though so it can be that.

If you are doing the install yourself, the 30 or whatever bolts holding it all together is tiring on your arms and patience and should be locktite and not overly torqued because the bolts will round. Make sure oyu bench bleed the throw out bearing and rebleed the clutch once installed or else you will have a bad time.

Overall I would give it a 8.5/10 right now and would buy it again.

That 1-2 shift thing being difficult under heavy load isn’t the clutch. I’m pretty sure it’s all the stupidity baked into these cars to make them vague and slushy. Or some emissions thing. Did you upgrade your transmission mounts?

 

[Anthony3o55]

The only reason I mentioned those two parts (crank pulley &rms) bc from what most ppl said upgrading these parts are a might as well do it since your under there already. Ontop of it being a better upgrade. The crank pulley was to reduce vibrations in the engine n the rear main seal to replace the OEM piece. Just want go as reliable as possible if there is a route..

Im not installing it myself. Gonna take it to a well known VW shop. I still dont kno if Im gonna go DKM still researching, I am seeing some good and bad stories. Also, reading on the forums seeing ppl with getting engine failure when doing just a clutch upgrade seems crazy. Especially, there’s a forum talking about crank walk very recently.

I thought about RSR, Sachs, TTRS.

 

[uberdot]

*If* crankwalk happens on heavier pressure plates (not saying it does, just entertaining the theory) then it would stand to reason that the lightest plate that can hold 400tq + would be the cautious choice. That said, I don’t know if any plate that can handle stage 2 power can be considered light at all.

 

[Anthony3o55]

Just to clarify the stock MK7 flywheel is a DMF?

 

[edstigator]

I’ve got the dkm stage 3 on my R as a DD. The chatter isn’t as bad as I was expecting, it’s not constant which is nice. Definitely agree with 2slow about the 1-2 shifting. I’ve got 10,000km on the clutch, the heaviness subsided slightly as the clutch broke in further. Otherwise I’ve had no issues and am really happy with it.

 

[JerseyDrew77]

Just to clarify the stock MK7 flywheel is a DMF?

Yes.