The Daily Driver & Motorsports Golf R

[mto386]

Where them EQT XL numbers?!

No number's yet. E Tuning with Jon still. We're trying to finish up 93 still. I'll dyno later.

 

[mto386]

Here's the new turbo install. EQT XL!

Compressor

Turbine

First Contact.

Engine bay mostly buttoned up.

 

[PowerDemon]

Awesome build and great looking car. Interested to see how the EQT stacks up against the DBV2 V2. Any reason you switched away from DBV2? I assumed you would be a prime candidate for their new V3 unit. Also have you considered a BBK or are you happy with it as is?

 

[mto386]

Awesome build and great looking car. Interested to see how the EQT stacks up against the DBV2 V2. Any reason you switched away from DBV2? I assumed you would be a prime candidate for their new V3 unit. Also have you considered a BBK or are you happy with it as is?

The TBB was in constant revisions, I had a few. I was taking it off, sending it in, having my R down till I got the new one in, installing it, revising tune.... it got old. Comparing a few dynos to a standard EQT, the EQT was spooling sooner and had more on the high end. So I went back to a journal bearing turbo, and one that seems like it has a lot of support. Saw Ed pushing his own turbo to 600whp. That says a lot. The EQT XL is spooling 600-800 rpms sooner than the dbv2 v2 tbb on my car too. I'm happy with my brakes for now. Trying out different compounds. Just installed some Power Stop Track Specs. I'll post my review after a track day hopefully in June. I'll throw my install pictures up soon.

 

[tolas]

I didn't see you mention it anywhere but did you feel the UM Haldex tune was worth it for track/auto-x ? Did you notice much difference?

 

[mto386]

It's hard to say. I got it at the same time as the big turbo. What they say is only 50% of the power goes to the rear. That's 50% of the stock power. So theoretically you're only going to ever see 150hp to the rear stock. As you increase hp, you're still going to only see 150hp to the rear so it becomes more and more front wheel biased... so I've been told. So like if you're running 500bhp, then you'll still only see 150hp to rear and the rest up front... again thats what I've been told. With the haldex tune, it suppose to have a higher clamping pressure so it can go back to a 50/50 split. Since I went big turbo and the haldex tune at the same time, I never ran the theoretical 30rear/70front split. FWIW, what I can say is the car feels balanced going through tight and fast turns.

 

[Vinsanyon]

How's your original engine hold up? are you building a new block just for the power?
Thinking about purchasing a 50,000miles modified and tuned 2017 golf r, might not be a good idea so lol.

 

[mto386]

How's your original engine hold up? are you building a new block just for the power?
Thinking about purchasing a 50,000miles modified and tuned 2017 golf r, might not be a good idea so lol.

I built the engine for insurance and piece of mind. It's cheaper to build the engine before it blows than after. Stock engine was running fine. Unless you're running 450wtq/500whp+, most would agree you don't need to build the engine.

 

[mto386]

Finally, a track day!

Beautiful day, great track, good times...mostly. Palmer Motorsports Park in Mass. What a change of scenery from the desert tracks and asphalt parking lots in SoCal. This track had major elevation changes through some remote country backwoods in an area called Whiskey Hill. Went with my new coworker who was driving a GLA 45 AMG. My best lap was 1:59 with a top speed of 131mph. See below for video. The GoPro battery died so I missed the last 10 mins which had both my best lap and fasted speed, womp womp. I was having issues with what my tuner and I believe to be overboost. Full throttle was setting off the dv which eventually led to limp mode. My first session I had to pull off and figure out what was going on. I put some 93 in and switched to a e48 tune. Overboost was still happening but not as easy. As long as I kept the throttle down to below 90%, I was good. Employing that strategy was hard though. About 5:30 into the video I set off limp mode again. I decided to turn the car off and on, on track. It worked, so I went back to grinding out the curves which eventually led to best time/speed of day. Brakes held up good, tires did great, no PCV issues, and my car made it home without any issues. Success...

And this is a Corrado that was on the track with me. Talked to him for a bit, turns out he has 6 of them. This one has a procharger in it. Something like 300bhp.

 

[mto386]

Turns out my issues were not due to overboost, they were fuel related. Logs pointed to a lpfp and not holding pressure and jumping to max dutycycle under heavy load. I consider myself very lucky I didn't blow the motor. Good thing the engine reacts to low fuel pressure and goes into limp mode. Took the pump out yesterday first thing I find is a single corroded connection. Next I find to what appears to be the green o-ring blown out from the walbro fuel out. After taking the pump out I notice 2 screws on the bottom of the tank. These clearly came from the pump which holds the top and bottom of the pump together. The PR 525 pump kit was assembled by a mostly reputable shop in SoCal. Assembly error or shitty kit?

Problem: Loss of low pressure fuel.
Conclusion: Screws fell out of the bottom of the pump holding it together allowing the walbro to unseat from the top half of the fuel pump.
Discussion: I'm not dicking around with a fuel pump that falls apart.
Action 1: Ordered a Pagparts brushless that comes in next week.
Action 2: Pump will be reassembled with lock washers and thread locker. New connection will be crimped on with heat shrink wrapping.
Action 3: This pump and the pm4 will be on the market soon.

Corroded Connection

Displaced Green O-Ring

Screws at bottom of fuel tank.

Missing screw #1

Missing screw #2

 

[vw671]

FWIW, I removed my CTS LPFP upgraded to 525 which has been living in my tank w/ e85 for over a year to fix my failed fuel sender. I had the same corrosion on that connector which broke pulling the tank out.

I fixed it by crimping on a new connector:

 

[mto386]

FWIW, I removed my CTS LPFP upgraded to 525 which has been living in my tank w/ e85 for over a year to fix my failed fuel sender. I had the same corrosion on that connector which broke pulling the tank out.

Maybe it's worth heat shrink wrapping it.

 

[daconchslop]

I went with soldered connections on my original install. Less than a month in the tank with E85 and it was very corroded from electrolysis on all the connections. I went with heat shrink butt connectors after replacing the basket hat. The ground spade connector was also corroded. Replaced all with new wiring and will inspect again in a few weeks.

 

[daconchslop]

 

[daconchslop]

I’m thinking these pumps are having proper grounding issues. On boats, sacrificial zinc anodes are needed to prevent galvanic corrosion for dissimilar metals below the water line. Is e85 that conductive that it could have the same effect?