SYNTHETIC OIL GRADES

[jimlloyd40]

Okay, so the oil topic has been beat to death. I think we all know that. Here are my two pennies.

1. Change you oil on time - VW recommends 10k intervals. This is exactly how often you should be changing your oil. There is no way the engineers got this wrong. You are just wasting money by changing it earlier. Unless you had a track day or something, you should just stick to what's recommended. Synthetic oil doesn't break down, it just gets dirty. Check the dip stick between changes to make sure you are at the proper level. Also, dirty oil is NOT an indication of how well it's lubricating.

2. Use the dealership's oil. VW has their own formula now. It used to be Castrol, the new bottles look like Mobile 1, but that's not been confirmed. Get your oil from the dealership. Less of an issue if you ever need to use your warranty, etc. It costs about the same, too. Maybe a dollar more per quart. There is absolutely no benefit to running Amsoil / Royal etc. It's just wasted money.

3. Check your sticker under the hood for oil weight. There are many different variables that can dictate which oil weight you need, but you can't go wrong if you just use what's on the sticker. For example, VW has the Golf R required oil weight different in at least 3 places. The manual says to run 5w30/40, the sticker says 0w30, and the dealership had 0w20 in their system due to a "memo update." There is a reason the sticker says what it does, and the techs performing oil changes are trained to use what's on the sticker. It's fool proof.

4. What you are referring to as "Oil Grades" are actually oil standards. Some of these include API, ACEA, etc. They vary depending on where you are in the world and how strict emissions standards are. There are some really great videos on YouTube about this and some excellent forums / websites you can visit depending on how much you are trying to learn.

5. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ Visit this page. Anything and everything you could ever want to know about oil. Also send your oil to Blackstone to have an UOA done on your next oil change. This will tell you exactly what the frequency of changes should be. The test kit is free, and the analysis is only about $30. Well worth the $$$ if you ask me.

- Watch this video. This dude has sent in multiple samples, one of which was at 10k interval. Blackstone stated his oil was fine and could have gone longer, even at the 10k mark!

Blackstone never hurts antibodies feelings. I've never seen a bad report from them.

 

[Keehs360]

Respectfully speaking. Some of you guys are a lil extra. Why not just keep using the vw508 0w20 and run the vw502 5w40 for track and super hot summers?

 

[thegrandbull]

Blackstone never hurts antibodies feelings. I've never seen a bad report from them.

right on! thanks for the info! great help. i will look into these resources

 

[Al_in_Philly]

If you really want the best oil for your car, and you drive it hard, all things being the same, check out each oil's "flash point." This is the temperature where the oil molecules start to chemically change from the fabulous lubricant we all know into a solid called "coke." Aside from the various additives infused into each quart of oil, this quality will impact the health of your engine more than anything else. Synthetics typically have quite high flash points because the molecular structure is uniform--traditional oils contain a wide range of oils molecules, with some turning into coke at a much lower temperature than the rest of the molecules. Still, even synthetic oils vary in terms of their flash points. Unfortunately, it usually requires a bit of hunting to find each oil's data sheet, which discloses their tested flash points. But all of that is only a concern if you are seeking the very, very, best performing oil in an engine which will be experiencing extremely high stress or running at high temperatures, such as in highly modified engines which are raced; or, if you're a total piston-head and just love researching this stuff.

 

[Madrv1]

VW approved oil, the weight VW requires, changed at least at the time/mileage VW requires, it doesn't really matter unless you plan to keep the your car forever.

Wow... So are you implying that we should create a problem for the next owner? This is how cars start to get a bad rep, take care of it as if you were going to keep it forever. The cost of one vs the other is heavier on the community of enthusiast.

 

[Madrv1]

My has 10k miles and I have changed the oil 4 times... Two complete oil changes and two only fluids. Always before or after a track day. Have used Castrol but going to Liquid Molly after a few fellows from the track recommend it as it has proven to burn less and to create less goo in the OCC.

 

[Keehs360]

My has 10k miles and I have changed the oil 4 times... Two complete oil changes and two only fluids. Always before or after a track day. Have used Castrol but going to Liquid Molly after a few fellows from the track recommend it as it has proven to burn less and to create less goo in the OCC.

I’ve heard that the castrol mobile1 and Motul burn the same. But the Liqui moly burns way way less