Be sure the mount point for the shock is designed to take on the added load and stress of the spring. On my car the upper mount is not designed to absorb and dissipate the added stress that the spring puts on the upper mount.
Hm good point. I'm not sure how I would know if it's designed for this or not. They seem like a good track setup. I need some guidance on the best track coilovers without spending 5 grand. My BCs may not be up to what I want them to do
@EVILAUDI - Thanks again for the input and lead. Turned out great and SUPER easy. Would 100% recommend the knockout punch method. Progression pics here.
Does anyone here have any experience with vwr tracksport coilovers or ASTs in this platform? Really considering this as the rear is a "true coilover design" eliminating the inboard spring
I don't have experience with either, but one thing that comes to mind is rear tire clearance if you go that route and run wide width.
My setup does include a 1200# bump spring on the rear shock, which is packed for autocross and unpacked for street. No top mount issues, but they're active for autocross only.
I don't have experience with either, but one thing that comes to mind is rear tire clearance if you go that route and run wide width.
My setup does include a 1200# bump spring on the rear shock, which is packed for autocross and unpacked for street. No top mount issues, but they're active for autocross only.
2.4 and the prototype plates sat much lower than the production plates. I replaced the prototypes with the production plates when I installed the Ohlins and I had to cut the tops to get 2.4 with my current setup.
2.4 and the prototype plates sat much lower than the production plates. I replaced the prototypes with the production plates when I installed the Ohlins and I had to cut the tops to get 2.4 with my current setup.
I imagine you will have to replace most of the front suspension components to get to 3 degrees. Camber plates alone won't do it. But that's a topic for a different thread.
I have the newest version of Ground Control plates in front of me now. These will easily allow for -3* of camber as the majority of the interference has been eliminated. For my TTRS I needed to have the inner most edge shaved but other than that they are good to go.
There is no issue with going back to the factory top mounts if you want to return your car to stock. The only catch is how you opened up the top of the tower. From the factory there is a 1" plastic cap covering the hole. If you used a knock out punch or hole saw you can find a 2" cap to make it appear stock. If you lopped off the entire thing you may need to figure something else out or just hide it with the valence cover.
For you Golf guys they have a different spring mount that includes a rubber isolator. This reduces NVH but isn't really required. You will need to determine which spring perch you want.
As for using a bump spring.... we are doing the same thing as it helps reduce heavy impacts and provides a progressive end of stroke spring rate. The bump spring sits on top of the bump stop and adds resistance only at that point in the travel.
The only additional feedback I can share is that you will want to run the horseshoe rings provided by GC. After clobbering a couple corner curbs at my last track day I did see signs of shock tower fatigue where the plates meet the tower. The horseshoe helps distribute the load better. FWIW I was able to claim the AWD Street Tire Track record running the new setup so it does work well. It just takes some care and feeding to get right.
I have the newest version of Ground Control plates in front of me now. These will easily allow for -3* of camber as the majority of the interference has been eliminated. For my TTRS I needed to have the inner most edge shaved but other than that they are good to go.
There is no issue with going back to the factory top mounts if you want to return your car to stock. The only catch is how you opened up the top of the tower. From the factory there is a 1" plastic cap covering the hole. If you used a knock out punch or hole saw you can find a 2" cap to make it appear stock. If you lopped off the entire thing you may need to figure something else out or just hide it with the valence cover.
