xXDavidCXx
Autocross Champion
- Location
- AZ
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI SE DSG
I think 40 plus front is the correct answer for our heavy cars.
Rear presure depending on alignment & tire width and observed performance.
7
Street Touring Hatchback (STH) discussion/setup
- Thread starter xXDavidCXx
- Start date
Rear presure depending on alignment & tire width and observed performance.
Won't that depend on side war stiffness and 17 vs 18 fitments?
I don't think you can make blanket statements like that.
xXDavidCXx
Autocross Champion
- Location
- AZ
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI SE DSG
It's not blanket. I said 40+
I run 18s, I won't suggest less than 40 psi, and I probably have the stiffest setup on anyoneon this forum.
If you have a taller sidewall and/or less spring, I suggest more pressure.
Also, just becuase people run less, does not mean they should.
I run 18s, I won't suggest less than 40 psi, and I probably have the stiffest setup on anyoneon this forum.
If you have a taller sidewall and/or less spring, I suggest more pressure.
Also, just becuase people run less, does not mean they should.
I was running 36 front on 17s and felt really good. No* uneven wear issues or understeer heavy tendencies
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xXDavidCXx
Autocross Champion
- Location
- AZ
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI SE DSG
If it works for you, fine, but I brake hard, turn hard, and basically drive the crap out of my car. When my tire pressures were that low, I understeered everywhere. The tire was overloaded and rolling over. It was worthless.
Just remember, there is 2000 lbs over the front axle, plus the G-s from braking. It's a LOT of load on the tires.
5 run on the 660s at 40 psi
What's your front camber these days? I had understeer issues when I was running lower camber but haven't seen it as an issue since then.
xXDavidCXx
Autocross Champion
- Location
- AZ
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI SE DSG
xXDavidCXx
Autocross Champion
- Location
- AZ
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI SE DSG
I'm not saying that higher pressures is a cure all, but it helps.
I added more spring and swaybar to the front to reduce camber loss due to roll. That combined with more static camber results in more grip and better tire wear.
I added more spring and swaybar to the front to reduce camber loss due to roll. That combined with more static camber results in more grip and better tire wear.
xXDavidCXx
Autocross Champion
- Location
- AZ
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI SE DSG
Guys, don't send your Ohlins to RE Suspensions in NC. I didn't get the service I expected from an authorized dealer.
They were kind enough on the phone and seemed very willing to get me what I wanted, but they lack the expertise on this specific shock model.
I just got off the phone with Performance Shock in Sonoma CA, and they explained why maybe I didn't get the level of service I expected.
It turns out, RE Suspension does mostly dirt track/circle track shocks, and are not as familiar with the automotive line from Ohlins.
The warning sign was there, but I didn't think too much of it when the service guy at RE said, "once we open the shock up we will see what we can do".
How are you an authorized dealer if you don't know up front what you can do with a shock? Well, if you don't specialize in automotive shocks, that's what happens.
So, driving around the last few days, moving the shock stiffer and stiffer, the rear shocks can't keep the rear of the car in check. Still too bouncy, even with the adjuster full closed.
Performance Shock charges double for their shock service, but it sounds worth it, as they've done plenty of the road and track shocks before, and also are familiar with the terms, motion ratio.
I'll be sending my shocks in, again, next month for a second attempt for more rebound.
If that doesn't work, the only real option is to try the next level Ohlins TTX/ILX line, but they are BIG $$$$.
Other things I learned from the phone call:
-The R&T line of shocks are very costly to rebuild, if the need arises. For example, the sales guy said it costs 2/3 the price of a new R&T shock
-Its a very good shock for the price, the sales guy does not know how Ohlins makes any money at this price point
They were kind enough on the phone and seemed very willing to get me what I wanted, but they lack the expertise on this specific shock model.
I just got off the phone with Performance Shock in Sonoma CA, and they explained why maybe I didn't get the level of service I expected.
It turns out, RE Suspension does mostly dirt track/circle track shocks, and are not as familiar with the automotive line from Ohlins.
The warning sign was there, but I didn't think too much of it when the service guy at RE said, "once we open the shock up we will see what we can do".
How are you an authorized dealer if you don't know up front what you can do with a shock? Well, if you don't specialize in automotive shocks, that's what happens.
So, driving around the last few days, moving the shock stiffer and stiffer, the rear shocks can't keep the rear of the car in check. Still too bouncy, even with the adjuster full closed.
Performance Shock charges double for their shock service, but it sounds worth it, as they've done plenty of the road and track shocks before, and also are familiar with the terms, motion ratio.
I'll be sending my shocks in, again, next month for a second attempt for more rebound.
If that doesn't work, the only real option is to try the next level Ohlins TTX/ILX line, but they are BIG $$$$.
Other things I learned from the phone call:
-The R&T line of shocks are very costly to rebuild, if the need arises. For example, the sales guy said it costs 2/3 the price of a new R&T shock
-Its a very good shock for the price, the sales guy does not know how Ohlins makes any money at this price point
Mini7
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTi Sport PP
Barry Battle from 3DM Motorsports is another option. He is knowledgeable and participates in DE’s in his own car.
MrFabulous
Ready to race!
- Location
- Chicago, IL
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTi Sport
I'm sorry to hear about your experience with RE. I haven't used them pretty much for that reason. I've used PSI for service and they're fantastic. Once I get the funds for Ohlins I'm buying from 3DM. They include valving at no charge if you buy from them. If I manage to find a used set, they'll go to PSI.
Oh and what he means when he says "the only real option..." he means the only real option for an inverted strut. Inverted is very much preferred for cars that do everything with the front wheels. I believe the DFVs can be valved to handle 1000lb springs. I don't think you need to go TTX/ILX yet, unless you want the joys of DA.
Oh and what he means when he says "the only real option..." he means the only real option for an inverted strut. Inverted is very much preferred for cars that do everything with the front wheels. I believe the DFVs can be valved to handle 1000lb springs. I don't think you need to go TTX/ILX yet, unless you want the joys of DA.
xXDavidCXx
Autocross Champion
- Location
- AZ
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI SE DSG
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jmblur
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Car(s)
- 2017 Golf R
Got lucky and caught these on Amazon for only $200, brand new. Now I just gotta save up for those Ohlins...
The woes of DCC, great when you want it and expensive when you don't