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Street Touring Hatchback (STH) discussion/setup

xXDavidCXx

Autocross Champion
Location
AZ
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE DSG
I chose the axle unbolt- it was a PITA to get the axle bolts lined up with the threads in the axle flange though.
I only do this install by removing the 1 axle bolt on the hub. And because I hate lifting heavy objects, I remove the caliper and rotor, too. Makes for a more pleasant install.
 

jmblur

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
2017 Golf R
I did the 2 x 4 when I did the springs, with 2 people it's pretty easy, but if I'm going to have the LCA off anyway, it's a no brainer to do at the same time.

I don't want to add too much harshness, so which bushings in the rear give the best improvement without too much nvh?

RS3 (or the BFI equivalent) is probably your best compromise. Nearly solid rubber for rs3, full solid for bfi. I'm going for RS3 personally. Superpro or powerflex urethanyr will be more performance improvement but more nvh.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
RS3 (or the BFI equivalent) is probably your best compromise. Nearly solid rubber for rs3, full solid for bfi. I'm going for RS3 personally. Superpro or powerflex urethanyr will be more performance improvement but more nvh.

I'm wondering which specific bushings make the most difference and which can be left stock. I don't think anyone is doing all the suspension bushings at this point.
 

jmblur

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
2017 Golf R
I'm wondering which specific bushings make the most difference and which can be left stock. I don't think anyone is doing all the suspension bushings at this point.

LCA rear bushing is going to have the most influence on turn-in and general steering/suspension geometry. Front bushing is much thinner and already solid rubber, so probably only marginal gains to be had there. I haven't done research on the rear suspension to know what the biggest impact item there is yet, but I'd imagine it'll have much less impact than front suspension bushings. My guess would be trailing arm bushings.

Note that powerflex does sell a front camber adjust bushing, but because of silly ST rules I don't think that would fly with your other camber changes. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-bushing-powerflex-pff85-501gbx2
 

bfury5

Autocross Champion
Location
CT
RS3 (or the BFI equivalent) is probably your best compromise. Nearly solid rubber for rs3, full solid for bfi. I'm going for RS3 personally. Superpro or powerflex urethanyr will be more performance improvement but more nvh.

One thing to note about the bushing install, there's no lip to position the bushing in the LCA, and there isn't a defined centering feature either.. So when you press it in, it's super important to make sure the bushing is straight and pressed in the correct distance. I measured how much the stock bushings were pushed out of the LCA and replicated that with the new ones.

I had to whack the new LCA pretty hard to get it seated in the subframe so the bolt holes aligned, but YMMV
 

bfury5

Autocross Champion
Location
CT
LCA rear bushing is going to have the most influence on turn-in and general steering/suspension geometry. Front bushing is much thinner and already solid rubber, so probably only marginal gains to be had there. I haven't done research on the rear suspension to know what the biggest impact item there is yet, but I'd imagine it'll have much less impact than front suspension bushings. My guess would be trailing arm bushings.

Note that powerflex does sell a front camber adjust bushing, but because of silly ST rules I don't think that would fly with your other camber changes. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-bushing-powerflex-pff85-501gbx2

Front rear LCA bushing is not solid, it has voids in it (I have them sitting in the garage). Not sure if they changed this over the years. The front LCA bushing certainly helped initial turn-in a lot due to less initial deflection.
 

bfury5

Autocross Champion
Location
CT
That's a good plan. When I installed my Koni's using the 2x4 method (based on my experience, proceed with EXTREME caution), either unbolting one end of each of the axles or removing the LCAs was a necessity to do the install part. I chose the axle unbolt- it was a PITA to get the axle bolts lined up with the threads in the axle flange though. Remember that the (6) ball joint nuts are single use and need to be replaced. I believe the axle bolts are as well.
I did the 2x4 method when I changed from stock to bilsteins in my car, and thought it was such a PITA. Spent more time trying to get the setup right and swearing at the thing. When I did my coils I just bought all the replacement 1-time use bolts and did it that way by removing the axle (from the trans side). Took about the same amount of time, but it was so much more straightforward that I really didn't mind. I've heard people have great success with the 2x4 method, more power to them.
 

jmblur

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
2017 Golf R
Front rear LCA bushing is not solid, it has voids in it (I have them sitting in the garage). Not sure if they changed this over the years. The front LCA bushing certainly helped initial turn-in a lot due to less initial deflection.
Yep, sorry the RS3 still has small voids, the BFI is solid. I think the voids are probably useful in the life of the bushing, otherwise the internal shear stress will be huge.
 

jmblur

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
2017 Golf R
One thing to note about the bushing install, there's no lip to position the bushing in the LCA, and there isn't a defined centering feature either.. So when you press it in, it's super important to make sure the bushing is straight and pressed in the correct distance. I measured how much the stock bushings were pushed out of the LCA and replicated that with the new ones.

I had to whack the new LCA pretty hard to get it seated in the subframe so the bolt holes aligned, but YMMV

Thanks! Yeah, I plan on making a bearing press tool (either machining one or 3d printing it out of stainless steel... Benefits of the job :D )
 

bfury5

Autocross Champion
Location
CT
Yep, sorry the RS3 still has small voids, the BFI is solid. I think the voids are probably useful in the life of the bushing, otherwise the internal shear stress will be huge.
Yeah, I have the BFI ones and it takes noticeably more force to swing the LCA up and down. With stock-height suspension my guess is that the solid bushing would wear out pretty quick due to how deflected the bushing would want to be under normal conditions
 

bfury5

Autocross Champion
Location
CT
With events finally starting to run consistently (at least coming up in July) I made some alignment tweaks after my last testing session. The front toe looks so off because my steering wheel has been crooked forever and I wanted to get that fixedStill working to make some spacers for the front camber plates so I can max them out, hopefully to 2.6-2.7°

IMG_20200626_165343.jpg
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Ok, so fast autocross course today at a race track with high grip asphalt, which I've run similar courses there in GS without issue, but today I got me first cloud of oil smoke under trail braking.

So, I don't have 500+ in the car budget for a catch can and blocking plate. Would just a universal can work if I empty it frequently at the track? I have Daytona coming up end of July.

And I was under the impression it would throw a little smoke, but be otherwise not noticed. Car started to sputter and buck and ruined my fastest run, because I got out of the throtte and coasted through the last little slalom. Then it stumbled off the line and a few times through first half the next run before clearing up. No CEL, which I'm surprised, with how poorly it was running.

Car still a little tight, time to reduce rear toe.
 

jmblur

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
2017 Golf R
Ok, so fast autocross course today at a race track with high grip asphalt, which I've run similar courses there in GS without issue, but today I got me first cloud of oil smoke under trail braking.

So, I don't have 500+ in the car budget for a catch can and blocking plate. Would just a universal can work if I empty it frequently at the track? I have Daytona coming up end of July.

And I was under the impression it would throw a little smoke, but be otherwise not noticed. Car started to sputter and buck and ruined my fastest run, because I got out of the throtte and coasted through the last little slalom. Then it stumbled off the line and a few times through first half the next run before clearing up. No CEL, which I'm surprised, with how poorly it was running.

Car still a little tight, time to reduce rear toe.

Have heard people with success using the newest gen Audi S3 PCV plate. Think it runs about $160.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Have heard people with success using the newest gen Audi S3 PCV plate. Think it runs about $160.

Do you know where I could find the part number?
 
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