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Steel Oil Pan Leaking

daujin229

Ready to race!
Location
Philly Area
I replaced my plastic oil pan about 10k miles ago with a steel one with a silicone sealant. First 5k oil change (with steel oil pan), no leaking. Between 5k-10k of having the steel oil pan started to develop a leak, noticed it as I was about to do the oil change. I ordered a Fel-Pro OS 30821 Oil Pan Gasket Set from Amazon as a replacement.

I know some of you all have had the same issue. Did you all replace the bolts with a new set or reuse the same ones after dropping the pan? I was reading a thread about replacing the oil baffle as well. For those who had leaking issues, did you also replace this as well or the sealant/gasket? Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
 

sandmangti

Go Kart Champion
Did you install or shop?
Try to torqing the bolts first. Star pattern around outside.
Shop might not have tightened well. If it does not help then replace seal. Not sure if new bolts required as the torque spec is low on these but new bolts never hurt and low cost.
 

daujin229

Ready to race!
Location
Philly Area
I did the install myself. I believe I torqued it to spec and according to ShopDaps video.
Do you think I should drop the bolts and then retorque it?
 

daujin229

Ready to race!
Location
Philly Area
Mine leaked. That sealant shrinks. Don't take the bolts out. Just work your way around the pan and snug them up.
And that worked for you no issues after?
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
Long Beach, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S
There is a different torque pattern and spec for Metal vs plastic pans. Metal oil pan torque spec and pattern:
1606007485239.png


Erwin says to use silicone rather than a gasket on metal pans.

Also, did you replace your Oil baffle when you did it?
1605646357961.png


From breakdown on parts:
1605646455719.png


7 - Bolt ❑ 4 Nm +45° ❑ Replace after removing. ❑ For the oil baffle and oil intake pipe
8 - Oil Baffle ❑ There are plastic ribs on the oil baffle that deform permanently when tightening the oil pan lower section. The plastic ribs ensure the oil baffle has no play and does not rattle. Because of this, always replace the oil baffle.
9 - O-Ring ❑ Replace after removing. ❑ Coat with engine oil
 
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daujin229

Ready to race!
Location
Philly Area
Also, pan hardware should be replaced when installing a new pan.
I followed the ShopDAP video when they installed their metal pan as well as FCP Euro's tutorial as well. I did not replace my oil baffle when I switched to a metal one, but I did replace the bolts with new ones. It is interesting to me because after the first 5k miles, I did not have any issues with leaking. It was at 10k. Do you think I should go around and retorque the bolts? Maybe they came a little loose? I also noticed that my oil dipstick was showing that the oil was just a tad above the max line (filled with 6L of oil which is what it is usually takes). I wonder if that causes some leaking?
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
Long Beach, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S
Wouldn't hurt to try retorquing. The pattern and specs I listed above for metal pans from the erwin service manual. Not sure on the baffle, seems most don't replace it; I just noticed it's mentioned to replace and I plan on replacing mine when I swap to a metal pan.
 

daujin229

Ready to race!
Location
Philly Area
Wouldn't hurt to try retorquing. The pattern and specs I listed above for metal pans from the erwin service manual. Not sure on the baffle, seems most don't replace it; I just noticed it's mentioned to replace and I plan on replacing mine when I swap to a metal pan.
Alright I'll give that a shot and see how it works.
 

daujin229

Ready to race!
Location
Philly Area
Update: Thank you to everyone for chiming in. I retorqued the pan today. Many of the bolts were loose. Retorqued them to spec with the 45 degree turn. I think this was the problem as I didn't have any issues with my first 5k oil change. Degreased the area and have my fingers crossed. I'll get under it again soon to check.
 
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