AFR setpoint never came back after the shift, cyl 1 injector seems fine but that AFR reading looks like 2 injectors not firing?
https://datazap.me/u/roald/log-1677260922?log=0&data=1-2-15&mark=195-246
7
Stage 1 - EQT - Autocross and the right plugs
- Thread starter Roald
- Start date
https://datazap.me/u/roald/log-1677260922?log=0&data=1-2-15&mark=195-246
Ed @ EQT
GOLFMK7 Official Sponsor
- Location
- Fairfield, CA
- Car(s)
- MK8 Golf R
That's misfire code and the ECU shuts off that cylinder. Could be plugs, coils, coil grounds, injectors, etc.
-- Ed
-- Ed
I suspect the ground wire. When I checked everything I noticed that nut/washer/nut combo was a bit loose. Contact still seemed "okay" but it was definitely loose. Still I moved the coil pack to cyl 1. Hoping to get a chance to do another real/log test soon.
Subliminal
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Vegas
- Car(s)
- Slow FWD VW Hatch
I've been doing some searching online turned this up and I can see how stripping those holes could become an issue.
Now if only there was a coil connector that wasn't nearly as annoying. I desperately hate how the wire harness is taped into the plastic channel for each coil and how hard each connector is to remove.
I've de-pinned some PC powersupply cables before and de-pinning those connectors looks like a real massive pain
CaptainRatty
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Winston-Salem, NC
- Car(s)
- MK7 GTI
With the correct de-pin tool, It's not, I can assure you.
Knifebright
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Bay Area
I had the wrong de-pin tool, made the classic I’m only gonna use it once I’ll go cheap here and was still the opposite of a massive pain.
The pain for me was sending down an oversized tool but now I’m golden!
Knifebright
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Bay Area
Ain’t that the truth.
It’s either you quietly understand how much this reduces triangle bolt stripping anxiety and just how high end the components are in them or you feverishly detest it existing and start going on about how you made one “just as good” with your car on milk crates in autozones parking lot using 5 connectors and your teeth to crimp.
That was my experience anyway when I installed and posted a picture haha!
Subliminal
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Vegas
- Car(s)
- Slow FWD VW Hatch
that's true it's the same group that uses 2x4's for suspension work
Nineeightyone
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Pennsylvania
- Car(s)
- Scooty Puff Jr
That's one I still don't understand -- spring compressors are cheap and scary (but they work)
though thanks to this forum I lifted my other car by the transmission using a 2x3 and a HF aluminum floor jack (dire situation, don't judge me)
tigeo
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Richmond, VA area
I don't think you understand what the lumber is being used for.
Nineeightyone
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Pennsylvania
- Car(s)
- Scooty Puff Jr
It's very possible. It looked like it was to push up on the strut/spring to remove it from the knuckle, which I've always done by compressing the spring and wiggling. I dunno, I'm definitely not trying to claim expertise but my experience in the past has been spring compressors work fine.
This thread has taken some real twists
.....Since we're here.
I'm doing my RedShift install hopefully at the end of march, and the plan is to remove the hub/axle bolt rather than the transmission side. I'm not messing with a 2x4.
tigeo
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Richmond, VA area
Correct, there is no way to use a spring compressor to do this while on the car. The correct way is to unbolt the axle to allow the knuckle to drop far enough away to remove the strut then you use a spring compressor to remove the spring from the strut. The "2x4" method just eliminates the need to unbolt the axle is all, I've actually done it and it does work but to me the axle method is a better/easier way to go.