Thanks. I’m planning on doing that as well. The struts should come today and I’m not getting to this until next week so I plan on preemptively sanding the paint so it’s one less thing to do when I actually install everything.Sand down the paint in the portion of the shock that goes into the knuckle and grease it up.
The knuckle shaved all the paint off that area on my Konis as it is.
Still haven't used the tool, but I tinker with it to make sure it wasn't going to jam or crack while using it and it is a solid piece. Daughter is taking all the damn weekends with volleyball club, so hopefully once the season slows down a bit I will be able to get back to the car.So how did this tool work out for you?
That’s good to know that it seems durable at least. I hear you in having the time for stuff. My kids are dictating when I get to this as well, a little too big of a job to get done during nap time.Still haven't used the tool, but I tinker with it to make sure it wasn't going to jam or crack while using it and it is a solid piece. Daughter is taking all the damn weekends with volleyball club, so hopefully once the season slows down a bit I will be able to get back to the car.
I've been enjoying my Koni Special Actives on stock springs for the past year and a half (about 10k miles). Feels nice to worry just a bit less about pot holes, curbs, etc. To me, they do everything they advertise.I think it's time to lay my Koni Yellows to rest
Will be looking to go back to stock height - not sure if I should just go back to OEM for practicality or get fresh Koni Special Actives.
Not sure about these in particular, but some shocks have an internal bump stop making the foam one unnecessary.And the factory rear bump stop doesn't fit..at all. Do I just leave it out?
No bump stops. No way that would work out
You’re looking at the rear shocks backwards or upside down I should say, the shaft in on the other side of your pictures and they have bumps stops under the boot cover already - in reality redshift/bc racing coilovers complete strut travel is probably about the height of your factory bump.My rear springs came with a new base plate. Should I take out the factory and use this one? Or just use the factory one? The new springs index fine on the factory seat..?
And the factory rear bump stop doesn't fit..at all. Do I just leave it out?
Edit: took out the old spring seats. Because why would they bother to send new ones otherwise?
No bump stops. No way that would work out
Silly question - when tightening the rear shock bolt to the shock mount, is there a preferred torque spec/method for tightening? For the fronts, we obviously want to use a pass through socket or wrench for the top nut to torque the nut down. I can't seem to find similar info for the rears, and have only seen videos of people hitting it with an impact gun.
My redshift kits specifically says TO impact it down. And even describes how to finesse it. Which is basically “a count of one thousand”Same question - bump for an answer. Are you guys just impacting this top nut down? Debating if I want to buy this 17mm strut nut socket to properly torque it down or just impact it... Every video guide (including ShopDAP) just impacts it down.
My redshift kits specifically says TO impact it down. And even describes how to finesse it. Which is basically “a count of one thousand”
Same question - bump for an answer. Are you guys just impacting this top nut down? Debating if I want to buy this 17mm strut nut socket to properly torque it down or just impact it... Every video guide (including ShopDAP) just impacts the rears down.