Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

[Pickleahoy]

Install should be reverse of removal, if you used a 2x4 to remove the stock shock, you would need the wood piece to compress it the same way.

 

[mattkime]

Install should be reverse of removal, if you used a 2x4 to remove the stock shock, you would need the wood piece to compress it the same way.

Might try that but I was going with the shopdap axle disconnect method after my initial poor start with the 2x4 method.

 

[GTIfan99]

Might try that but I was going with the shopdap axle disconnect method after my initial poor start with the 2x4 method.

AGAIN, you really need 2 people to safely and quickly use the 2 x 4 method.

If you don't have soneone to help, it's not the easiest way to do it. You might be better off with the axle method.

 

[mattkime]

While I'm doing a sanity check - I'm curious about the width of different strut spreaders. Mine is 8mm just about on the nose, measured with a digital caliper.

 

[mattkime]

I took another look at the 2x4 method. Here's my problem - the strut and 2x4 are at a bit of an angle so when I jack them up they push the jack outward - very annoying, but maybe this is why two people are needed. I'd like to see the 2x4 method used to reseat the strut into the knuckle - strikes me as more difficult than removal since you need control.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

I took another look at the 2x4 method. Here's my problem - the strut and 2x4 are at a bit of an angle so when I jack them up they push the jack outward - very annoying, but maybe this is why two people are needed. I'd like to see the 2x4 method used to reseat the strut into the knuckle - strikes me as more difficult than removal since you need control.

All good reasons to not use this method.

 

[mattkime]

The issue I was having with the shopdap axle removal method is that the knuckle studs seemed to be in conflict with the lower control arm. I'll try again tomorrow. Otherwise I might look at removing the brake which should remove some weight and free me from worrying about the brake lines.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

The issue I was having with the shopdap axle removal method is that the knuckle studs seemed to be in conflict with the lower control arm. I'll try again tomorrow. Otherwise I might look at removing the brake which should remove some weight and free me from worrying about the brake lines.

1. Loosen axle bolts with wheels on the ground
2. lift both sides of the front
3. Remove wheels
4. Disconnect the sway bar from the strut, both sides if removing both struts
5. Remove the entire caliper via the two bolts, both bolts are reusable
6. Remove the rotor (for ease of access and lightens the load when re-installing struts)
7. Remove the lower strut pinch bolt and toss the bolt and nut in the trash
8. Remove the 3 lower ball joint nuts and toss in the nuts in the trash
9. Push the lower arm down and pull the ball joint out of the arm, the strut assembly should move freely.
10. Insert strut separator
11. Use a block of wood and a hammer, if needed, on the knuckle rim to force the knuckle down the strut shaft. Work the strut separator in different positions as needed to create the required space.

 

[mattkime]

Thanks for this. Before removing any nut or bolt from the car I want to (assuming I have the tools)

a) see if I need to replace it
b) know what the torque specs are

>Remove the 3 lower ball joint nuts and toss in the nuts in the trash

I do not have these on hand. Not sure how strong the recommendation is to replace but I don't want to open that can of worms...

1. Loosen axle bolts with wheels on the ground
2. lift both sides of the front
3. Remove wheels
4. Disconnect the sway bar from the strut, both sides if removing both struts
5. Remove the entire caliper via the two bolts, both bolts are reusable
6. Remove the rotor (for ease of access and lightens the load when re-installing struts)
7. Remove the lower strut pinch bolt and toss the bolt and nut in the trash
8. Remove the 3 lower ball joint nuts and toss in the nuts in the trash
9. Push the lower arm down and pull the ball joint out of the arm, the strut assembly should move freely.
10. Insert strut separator
11. Use a block of wood and a hammer, if needed, on the knuckle rim to force the knuckle down the strut shaft. Work the strut separator in different positions as needed to create the required space.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

Thanks for this. Before removing any nut or bolt from the car I want to (assuming I have the tools)

a) see if I need to replace it
b) know what the torque specs are

>Remove the 3 lower ball joint nuts and toss in the nuts in the trash

I do not have these on hand. Not sure how strong the recommendation is to replace but I don't want to open that can of worms...

Most VW hardware is one-time use. It's called torque-to-yield.

The dealer will have all the nuts and bolts you need for a reasonable price.

Worst case, use the old nuts, then when you have time, go back and replace them using the VW recommended torque and degree turn specifications.

 

[alper]

I took another look at the 2x4 method. Here's my problem - the strut and 2x4 are at a bit of an angle so when I jack them up they push the jack outward - very annoying, but maybe this is why two people are needed. I'd like to see the 2x4 method used to reseat the strut into the knuckle - strikes me as more difficult than removal since you need control.

Sounds weird maybe but 2x4 is far from the ideal size for this method, it's so annoying it actually goes by this name as you're probably going to have issues if you use that size. Yes maybe you can pull it off with an actual 2x4 but it's un-necessarily bulky, it limits how close and how parallel the wood can come to the strut (which is paramount for the success of the method) and creates more risk.

I went with a ~2x2 (actually 45x45mm) and was able to place the wood perfectly parallel to the strut. In fact the wood was lifting the strut up via the connected bolt, not by physically pushing on the spring seat which is i think the original concept but like this i had absolutely no issues of the jack tending to slip. Drilling the hole on the wood to be a snug fit (12mm max) also helps avoiding too much play between strut and wood.

And you are right about the lack of documentation for re-installation, that's where I lost a LOT of time till i figured out my buddy needed to operate the jack in very slow increments, and me wiggling the brake disc to get small bits of drop every time. On the second corner(passenger side) it went much quicker. So sorry I didn't get a video as i realize it would have helped others like me but at the time we were already 5hr out fighting it, it was getting dark and i was too pissed to think about making movies...

PS. Your issue in the previous page of the strut being lower than the knuckle to begin with, is resolved by compressing the assembly slightly by jacking up the 2x2 (i won't refer to it as 2x4 any more, lol), but you must have figured that out already

 

[GTIfan99]

Sounds weird maybe but 2x4 is far from the ideal size for this method, it's so annoying it actually goes by this name as you're probably going to have issues if you use that size. Yes maybe you can pull it off with an actual 2x4 but it's un-necessarily bulky, it limits how close and how parallel the wood can come to the strut (which is paramount for the success of the method) and creates more risk.

I went with a ~2x2 (actually 45x45mm) and was able to place the wood perfectly parallel to the strut. In fact the wood was lifting the strut up via the connected bolt, not by physically pushing on the spring seat which is i think the original concept but like this i had absolutely no issues of the jack tending to slip. Drilling the hole on the wood to be a snug fit (12mm max) also helps avoiding too much play between strut and wood.

And you are right about the lack of documentation for re-installation, that's where I lost a LOT of time till i figured out my buddy needed to operate the jack in very slow increments, and me wiggling the brake disc to get small bits of drop every time. On the second corner(passenger side) it went much quicker. So sorry I didn't get a video as i realize it would have helped others like me but at the time we were already 5hr out fighting it, it was getting dark and i was too pissed to think about making movies...

PS. Your issue in the previous page of the strut being lower than the knuckle to begin with, is resolved by compressing the assembly slightly by jacking up the 2x2 (i won't refer to it as 2x4 any more, lol), but you must have figured that out already

Yeah, first time sucked, took forever. But we did it a second time the next week, swapping L and R sides to troubleshoot a spring issue, and it went so quickly with two people that knew what they're doing.

I did use an actual 2 x 4, but the hole is offset to one side and towarss the top, so like you, the bolt connected to the swaybar mount were pushing the strut up, but the wood pushing on the spring perch.

 

[mattkime]

I went with a ~2x2 (actually 45x45mm) and was able to place the wood perfectly parallel to the strut.

Yeah, I think most people see 2x4 as "piece of wood" - I've been using a 1x3 but I suspect its too thin.

 

[mattkime]

THE STRUT IS IN!

Removing the brake was really helpful in giving me the freedom I needed. Slid in super easy. I broke a rubber mallet attempting to remove the disc and decided it could stay in place.

Now - I removed the axle from the transmission as shown in the shopdap video. Whats the correct torque for the inner axle bolts? Is there an authoritative reference thats accessible? Not sure I want to reassemble a suspension based on the first google search result.

I'm feeling relieved but will feel even better once this thing is a) off jack stands b) drivable.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

See item #14