Maybe I drive like I'm tracking it???
Well I'm all for saving 310 bucks for them.. lol
So is the full ECS kit the way to go ??
ECS Tuning
7
Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide
- Thread starter Hammersticks
- Start date
Maybe I drive like I'm tracking it???
Well I'm all for saving 310 bucks for them.. lol
So is the full ECS kit the way to go ??
ECS Tuning
Maybe I drive like I'm tracking it???
If you've got a lot of twisties that you get to drive on the weekends, get the 034 camber strut mounts.
I don't get to do a lot of that, so I am holding off on the camber strut mounts for now. If I end up getting wider wheels I do want to shoot for 255 width tires, and would add the 034 mounts then.
I'll definitely go 235/40/18 on the stock austin's or 245/40/18 if I get a wider wheel, but that would be my max
nype
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Vancouver, B.C.
Ya I’d add TT rear spring pads to this mix then.
Just replace the recommended hardware. Re-use the stock mounts.
Just replace the recommended hardware. Re-use the stock mounts.
We shouldn't need them with these springs.
nype
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Vancouver, B.C.
snobrdrdan
former GTI owner
- Location
- Southeast Michigan
FTFY
Hi Everyone,
Just wanted to give a huge thank you to the op and anyone who put together a diy for this process. Installed Koni Yellows and and Eibach pro kit this weekend on my 2017 Sport, and it went mostly smooth because of the material available from the community.
I would say it took me 5-6 hours total with a rear sway bar install also. At least 2 hours was trying to get the inner axle bolts lined up and back in. That was the only issue I had. I was very nervous about cross threading a hole, and it was really difficult to hold the axle in place while threading a bolt through. I ended up jacking the lower control arm up to make the axle almost horizontal. I was then able to get the bolt holes to line up without having to use a lot of force.
My thought after the first drive was “why in the world did this car not come like this?!?!” It feels almost effortless to get the car around a turn now. Initial turn is much sharper and precise. Ride comfort feels almost the same, which surprised me. Front dampers are set to 25% stiff. Rear dampers set to 50%. I’ll probably go 50% on the front too, but I wanted to start off on the more comfortable side.
I was also really pleased with the drop. It looks good, but most people probably won’t even notice. Can’t go too low in NY anyway. Excuse the crappy pics, have to get the car cleaned up before any glamour shoots. Haha.
Happy suspensioning everyone, and thanks again for such a solid knowledge base.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just wanted to give a huge thank you to the op and anyone who put together a diy for this process. Installed Koni Yellows and and Eibach pro kit this weekend on my 2017 Sport, and it went mostly smooth because of the material available from the community.
I would say it took me 5-6 hours total with a rear sway bar install also. At least 2 hours was trying to get the inner axle bolts lined up and back in. That was the only issue I had. I was very nervous about cross threading a hole, and it was really difficult to hold the axle in place while threading a bolt through. I ended up jacking the lower control arm up to make the axle almost horizontal. I was then able to get the bolt holes to line up without having to use a lot of force.
My thought after the first drive was “why in the world did this car not come like this?!?!” It feels almost effortless to get the car around a turn now. Initial turn is much sharper and precise. Ride comfort feels almost the same, which surprised me. Front dampers are set to 25% stiff. Rear dampers set to 50%. I’ll probably go 50% on the front too, but I wanted to start off on the more comfortable side.
I was also really pleased with the drop. It looks good, but most people probably won’t even notice. Can’t go too low in NY anyway. Excuse the crappy pics, have to get the car cleaned up before any glamour shoots. Haha.
Happy suspensioning everyone, and thanks again for such a solid knowledge base.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
copperbricks
Ready to race!
- Location
- Ohio
Hi all, I've got some Bilstein B14s on the way and used this thread to order the requisite replacement hardware (went for strut tops and bearings as well). However I have a question about the 2x4 method. Will I need to a use a 2x4 to compress the new Bilstein shock to get it into the mounting spot?
NopeR
Autocross Champion
- Car(s)
- 18 Golf R
Yes, the method is used to remove and to install the strut into the knuckle.
snobrdrdan
former GTI owner
- Location
- Southeast Michigan
Piggybacking what Niol8r just said....if it's a OEM length strut, yes you'll need to use the 2x4 to lift/compress it to get it back in.
If it was a (shorter) coilover setup, then no you wouldn't need it for example...since there'd be more room
This is by far the best write up for lowering springs. I was able to do the rear in about 1.5 hours, the front took me about 4 hours to do cause I couldn’t get the shock out of the knuckle. Instead of buying the knuckle spreader I just made one with an Allen key 8mm. Shaved it to size and worked great to open the knuckle up. If you have lighting package, on the rear driver side is the sensor. Disconnect it via the two small bolts connecting it to the lower control arm. The front once you have the knuckle spread. Twist it to make sure the shock is able to spin. If it doesn’t you need to reinstall the knuckle spreader in a better spot. Once the shock is now able to spin back and forth a couple mm, you are going to need a ladder to climb up on and start slamming the hell of the rotor. Should pop right now. I tried pushing it and wiggling it and even a slug hammer, by far the fastest way was getting on the latter and stomping it down. Hope these little details help someone out!