Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

[GTIfan99]

Sand down the paint in the portion of the shock that goes into the knuckle and grease it up.

The knuckle shaved all the paint off that area on my Konis as it is.

 

[95b14]

Sand down the paint in the portion of the shock that goes into the knuckle and grease it up.

The knuckle shaved all the paint off that area on my Konis as it is.

Thanks. I’m planning on doing that as well. The struts should come today and I’m not getting to this until next week so I plan on preemptively sanding the paint so it’s one less thing to do when I actually install everything.

 

[Maiden69]

So how did this tool work out for you?

Still haven't used the tool, but I tinker with it to make sure it wasn't going to jam or crack while using it and it is a solid piece. Daughter is taking all the damn weekends with volleyball club, so hopefully once the season slows down a bit I will be able to get back to the car.

 

[95b14]

Still haven't used the tool, but I tinker with it to make sure it wasn't going to jam or crack while using it and it is a solid piece. Daughter is taking all the damn weekends with volleyball club, so hopefully once the season slows down a bit I will be able to get back to the car.

That’s good to know that it seems durable at least. I hear you in having the time for stuff. My kids are dictating when I get to this as well, a little too big of a job to get done during nap time.

 

[Roald]

Redshift coil over kit is finally on its way (hopefully arriving tomorrow) so I'm hoping to put the car up and stands and start pulling everything apart tomorrow. I'm also doing the FSB as well so I may just nail that down before hand.

Has anyone installed the Redshift kit and have any oddities they came across?
I've got all the bolts and I'm disconnecting the axel at the hub. Otherwise I don't really anticipate anything too strange since I'm swapping the whole unit.

 

[blaqsheep]

I think it's time to lay my Koni Yellows to rest

Will be looking to go back to stock height - not sure if I should just go back to OEM for practicality or get fresh Koni Special Actives.

 

[avenali312]

I think it's time to lay my Koni Yellows to rest

Will be looking to go back to stock height - not sure if I should just go back to OEM for practicality or get fresh Koni Special Actives.

I've been enjoying my Koni Special Actives on stock springs for the past year and a half (about 10k miles). Feels nice to worry just a bit less about pot holes, curbs, etc. To me, they do everything they advertise.

 

[Roald]

My rear springs came with a new base plate. Should I take out the factory and use this one? Or just use the factory one? The new springs index fine on the factory seat..?


And the factory rear bump stop doesn't fit..at all. Do I just leave it out?


Edit: took out the old spring seats. Because why would they bother to send new ones otherwise?

No bump stops. No way that would work out

 

[avenali312]

And the factory rear bump stop doesn't fit..at all. Do I just leave it out?

No bump stops. No way that would work out

Not sure about these in particular, but some shocks have an internal bump stop making the foam one unnecessary.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

My rear springs came with a new base plate. Should I take out the factory and use this one? Or just use the factory one? The new springs index fine on the factory seat..?


And the factory rear bump stop doesn't fit..at all. Do I just leave it out?


Edit: took out the old spring seats. Because why would they bother to send new ones otherwise?

No bump stops. No way that would work out

You’re looking at the rear shocks backwards or upside down I should say, the shaft in on the other side of your pictures and they have bumps stops under the boot cover already - in reality redshift/bc racing coilovers complete strut travel is probably about the height of your factory bump.

 

[Roald]

A few updates. Got everything installed by Saturday night and did some adjusting Sunday. I had to reduce the camber adjustment to prevent hitting the dampening adjuster on the shock tower.

I emailed Redshift and Chris got back almost immediately saying that the issue was not predicted and offered to make and send me an appropriate spacer. " A a space (5-10mm) under the camber plate (above the shaft) to move the camber plate up higher on the shock shaft. That will lower the adjuster" - So it sounds like I have a solution incoming and I'm grateful to Chris and crew for doing this.

Driving around yesterday and today I'm finding that even mild bumps or manhole covers cause the front suspension to crash aggressively- It's super loud and its terrible. I knew the ride would be more stiff, but this is unexpected for the spring rates (8kF/10kR)- and now I'm questioning if I set the preload correctly. I suspect I did not. I only raised each corner and set it to "just hand tight". Which I think is not enough and is causing the strut to bottom out. I'll be adjusting that tonight.

And so the journey continues. I am learning as I go and I don't really have easy access to anyone that knows to able to assist. So I'm in a I don't know what I don't know situation.

 

[VL3X]

Silly question - when tightening the rear shock bolt to the shock mount, is there a preferred torque spec/method for tightening? For the fronts, we obviously want to use a pass through socket or wrench for the top nut to torque the nut down. I can't seem to find similar info for the rears, and have only seen videos of people hitting it with an impact gun.

Same question - bump for an answer. Are you guys just impacting this top nut down? Debating if I want to buy this 17mm strut nut socket to properly torque it down or just impact it... Every video guide (including ShopDAP) just impacts the rears down.

 

[Roald]

Same question - bump for an answer. Are you guys just impacting this top nut down? Debating if I want to buy this 17mm strut nut socket to properly torque it down or just impact it... Every video guide (including ShopDAP) just impacts it down.

My redshift kits specifically says TO impact it down. And even describes how to finesse it. Which is basically “a count of one thousand”

 

[VL3X]

My redshift kits specifically says TO impact it down. And even describes how to finesse it. Which is basically “a count of one thousand”

Interesting. I picked up and pass thru socket wrench set and was able to torque them down close enough by hand while using an allen key in the center.

BTW, the rears were super easy. Drivers side I unbolted everything (lower control arm, strut, lower end link, leveling sensor) like I did for my previous spring install. The passenger side I just unbolted the strut and compressed it manually to squeeze it out and the new one in. Wasn't that difficult, but I did break the evap canister clip. That thing is literally impossible to get to. I just zip tied it back and secured it with the lower bolt as it was. Everything torqued to spec and feels good.

Now to tackle the fronts...

 

[Track R]

Same question - bump for an answer. Are you guys just impacting this top nut down? Debating if I want to buy this 17mm strut nut socket to properly torque it down or just impact it... Every video guide (including ShopDAP) just impacts the rears down.