Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

[GTIfan99]

Just a question, since I'm mostly familiar with Mk3s and Mk4s, this is my first new VW.

Why not just use a spring compressor to compress the spring, then use the spread tool to open the knuckle? Seems like it would be a lot safer and easier than the 2x4 method, not that I am above the 2x4 method. Is there not enough room in the wheel well or something?

Looking at installing lowering springs and shocks once it warms up, just trying to get my research out of the way. I promised myself I'd find a good shop to do all the work on the new car, but I can't help it.

You can do 2 x 4 or remove the axle. Those are your choices.

 

[odessa.filez]

You can do 2 x 4 or remove the axle. Those are your choices.

you mean remove spindles ??

 

[xXDavidCXx]

you mean remove spindles ??

No, either remove the inner axle bolts, or remove the large bolt holding the axle to the hub.

 

[Ezekiel81923]

Read through the OP and some of this thread, and watched about a dozen videos.

Part of me feels like I'd be less paranoid removing the inner axle bolts and disconnecting the lower control arm but I didn't buy replacement hardware for those so we're going with the 2x4 method.

Here's to hoping I don't break things.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

Read through the OP and some of this thread, and watched about a dozen videos.

Part of me feels like I'd be less paranoid removing the inner axle bolts and disconnecting the lower control arm but I didn't buy replacement hardware for those so we're going with the 2x4 method.

Here's to hoping I don't break things.

You could still reuse the old hardware, it's not like it won't tighten up anymore, but I would plan to replace them sooner than later.

If this is your first time, you will likely find the 2x4 method difficult.

 

[Ezekiel81923]

You could still reuse the old hardware, it's not like it won't tighten up anymore, but I would plan to replace them sooner than later.

If this is your first time, you will likely find the 2x4 method difficult.

Not my first time doing shocks and struts, and not my first time doing some kind of suspension work on the GTI, but it will be the first time doing front struts on the GTI.

Hoping the young age and low mileage of everything makes it easier.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

Not my first time doing shocks and struts, and not my first time doing some kind of suspension work on the GTI, but it will be the first time doing front struts on the GTI.

Hoping the young age and low mileage of everything makes it easier.

What I was trying to point out is, don't let the fact you don't have the hardware to try the other (better) ways of removing the struts, stop you.

 

[dukati]

Tips that may help some people with 2x4 and in general. That saved me a lot of time

Tip 1: if the spreader isn't spreading far enough you can jam a penny(coin) between and then you'll get a few extra mm of spread and it might just be what you need. Make sure the spreader tool is for VW and at least 8mm wide on the big side. I had a spreader for Renault and it was on 7mm and was not enough here in Germany.

Tip 2: When putting the strut back in make sure the tab on the bottom of strut is as straight as possible with the middle of the spindle. Otherwise it'll be difficult to get in the last bit and/or it'll make it way way easier for everything to sit nice.

Tip 3: If the tab is out of place you can use the 2x4 as leverage to turn the strut while it's in the spindle. You just need to have it 90 degrees out from the jacking position and then push left or right by hand on the wood. (hopefully this makes sense)

I did this job on my mk7 a long time ago and the car was fairly new so it was easier.

When I did it on my mk6 now stuff was more rusty and stiff. Since my stuff was a little rustier this time round it was a little more effort to get in/out.

First side took me over 4 hours because I spent over 2 hrs frustratingly getting it to sit all the way down. Once I figured out these small tricks the other side took 1hr in/out.

Also, lube it up and clean the spindle with a brush and it should go pretty smooth.

I added 2 pictures with a bad tab placement and good.

Cheers and good luck. Hopefully this helps someone.

*Also, Hazet makes this amazing spreader but it's new and on backorder here in DE and it's quite expensive 50€. Though may be worth it for people that do it often, help friends, or change different cars.

Hazet 4912-5

Cheers from Munich, Germany.

Thanks to OP for this thread, great work.

 

[SPLR337]

I attempted this on Monday, with the 2x4 method as I had forgot to order new axle bolts.

Driver side was a total pain in the ass. Pass side was ok. Rears weren't too bad.

Installed Bilstein B8 with DG springs. Torqued bolts under load. Car drives nice and smooth and very quiet, however it's still sitting a little high. I did throw in the Audi TT rear spring pads as a precaution to prevent reverse take, but I think they might need to come out unless everything needs more time/mileage to kinda settle. Driven about 30 miles so far.

If not I ordered new stretch bolts for the rear to remove the TT perches and re-clock everything

 

[GTIfan99]

I attempted this on Monday, with the 2x4 method as I had forgot to order new axle bolts.

Driver side was a total pain in the ass. Pass side was ok. Rears weren't too bad.

Installed Bilstein B8 with DG springs. Torqued bolts under load. Car drives nice and smooth and very quiet, however it's still sitting a little high. I did throw in the Audi TT rear spring pads as a precaution to prevent reverse take, but I think they might need to come out unless everything needs more time/mileage to kinda settle. Driven about 30 miles so far.

If not I ordered new stretch bolts for the rear to remove the TT perches and re-clock everything

Go do some hard side to side slalom on an empty road.

 

[Hambone]

I attempted this on Monday, with the 2x4 method as I had forgot to order new axle bolts.

Driver side was a total pain in the ass. Pass side was ok. Rears weren't too bad.

Installed Bilstein B8 with DG springs. Torqued bolts under load. Car drives nice and smooth and very quiet, however it's still sitting a little high. I did throw in the Audi TT rear spring pads as a precaution to prevent reverse take, but I think they might need to come out unless everything needs more time/mileage to kinda settle. Driven about 30 miles so far.

If not I ordered new stretch bolts for the rear to remove the TT perches and re-clock everything

You need more than 30 miles for it to settle. Give it time, and as recommend, get some aggressive twisties driving in, if you can.

 

[EricsVdub]

IMHO you absolutely need another person to reinstall the front struts. One to hold the strut in place, and the other to get the nuts started from up top. Another tip is using a jack under the control arm with the strut spreader still in place to help seat the strut all the way down in the spindle.

 

[Raguvian]

IMHO you absolutely need another person to reinstall the front struts. One to hold the strut in place, and the other to get the nuts started from up top. Another tip is using a jack under the control arm with the strut spreader still in place to help seat the strut all the way down in the spindle.

What? It's very easy to install the struts by yourself. Hold the strut up with one hand and thread the nuts or bolts (depending on your setup) with the other.

 

[EricsVdub]

I tried that for a bit before giving up. I couldn't see what I was doing from either side. You must have way longer arms than me. The GTI is my first German car. All the ones in the past had studs fixed in the upper mount which seemed much easier to me than the bolts..

 

[Raguvian]

I tried that for a bit before giving up. I couldn't see what I was doing from either side. You must have way longer arms than me. The GTI is my first German car. All the ones in the past had studs fixed in the upper mount which seemed much easier to me than the bolts..

I do have long, noodly arms but I don't think you need to have very long arms to be able to support the strut from the underside while threading the bolts from the top.

The studs are much, much easier for sure, though. You have to make sure the top hat is perfectly lined up to get the bolts to thread whereas the studs make it pretty obvious if they're through the strut tower holes or not.