Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

[trashb0y]

will do. thanks guys

 

[trashb0y]

so ive finished installation, including adding that part i forgot to put on before. this is the first thing i've ever done to my car on my own, pretty proud of the results. the thread was helpful as well as lots of other resources i found online. thanks you again to everyone who's contributed.

being as this is the first big thing i've done to my car, i'm kind of paranoid. i torqued everything to spec, but was just curious.. lets say some bolt comes loose or some other random event.. would i be able to tell before some sort of catastrophic event occurs, from like vibrating, noise, clunking? or would it be some situation where i'm just driving and all of a sudden my suspension gives out.

sorry for the stupid question

 

[odessa.filez]

have you driven it yet? Unless you hear some.strange noise, or feel some odd behavior, you're likely good.

Did you use a torque wrench.and torque to spec? If you want to be absolutely sure, you could check again every nut you torqued.

if you lowered.the car, you need an alignment. Or at least have it checked.

 

[trashb0y]

yeah, i've been driving it. no weird squeaks, clunks, creaks, etc. the ride actually feels.. really smooth lol. im just super paranoid about this kind of stuff, wouldn't consider myself the most mechnically inclined guy, so its just something thats always on my mind.

i torqued rear to spec, except for the bolt closest to the rotor on the rear control arm. my torque wrench only goes to 108nm, where i think the spec is 120. i just kept going a little bit more with a regular ratchet wrench. i'm pretty sure 10nm wont make a world of a difference but, yeah.

i had to lower the back just a smidge more, will let it settle again and take it in for an alignment later this week.

 

[theDoktor]

Many of the fasteners on our VW's are "Stretch-to-torque" fasteners that are single use and must be replaced, NOT RE-USED! Did you verify with the factory shop manual which fasteners are this type and did you replace them? Did you use the proper torquing technique for all fasteners? Suspension member fasteners are critical fasteners- failure can be dangerous or deadly.

 

[trashb0y]

i didn't replace anything, just reused the same hardware. i watched a couple videos and they just reused the same hardward, didn't mention anything about replacing them.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

i didn't replace anything, just reused the same hardware. i watched a couple videos and they just reused the same hardward, didn't mention anything about replacing them.

That's not the VW way. When you get a chance, replace the hardware.

I'll admit early on I didn't replace the hardware, but now I do, every time, where needed.

 

[alper]

Would you say it's feasible to remove the rear springs by getting the car on a lift and using spring compressors directly on the springs? it seems like there is enough space to tighten the compressors but I wonder why I haven't seen this being discussed at all as an option...

 

[xXDavidCXx]

Would you say it's feasible to remove the rear springs by getting the car on a lift and using spring compressors directly on the springs? it seems like there is enough space to tighten the compressors but I wonder why I haven't seen this being discussed at all as an option...

no

 

[M3bs1]

I just finished installing the APR suspension package on a friend’s GLI. I’ve pretty much maxed out the rear height adjustment, and it’s still lower than he would like. I remember seeing a thicker rubber spring pad somewhere. Can anybody point me to it?

 

[snobrdrdan]

I just finished installing the APR suspension package on a friend’s GLI. I’ve pretty much maxed out the rear height adjustment, and it’s still lower than he would like. I remember seeing a thicker rubber spring pad somewhere. Can anybody point me to it?

Part number: 8J0512149

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...08-2009-2010-2011-2012-2013-2014/8j0512149kt/

 

[M3bs1]

Part number: 8J0512149

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...08-2009-2010-2011-2012-2013-2014/8j0512149kt/

Thanks!

 

[SPLR337]

Just a question, since I'm mostly familiar with Mk3s and Mk4s, this is my first new VW.

Why not just use a spring compressor to compress the spring, then use the spread tool to open the knuckle? Seems like it would be a lot safer and easier than the 2x4 method, not that I am above the 2x4 method. Is there not enough room in the wheel well or something?

Looking at installing lowering springs and shocks once it warms up, just trying to get my research out of the way. I promised myself I'd find a good shop to do all the work on the new car, but I can't help it.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

Just a question, since I'm mostly familiar with Mk3s and Mk4s, this is my first new VW.

Why not just use a spring compressor to compress the spring, then use the spread tool to open the knuckle? Seems like it would be a lot safer and easier than the 2x4 method, not that I am above the 2x4 method. Is there not enough room in the wheel well or something?

Looking at installing lowering springs and shocks once it warms up, just trying to get my research out of the way. I promised myself I'd find a good shop to do all the work on the new car, but I can't help it.

1. Loosen axle bolts with wheels on the ground
2. lift both sides of the front
3. Remove wheels
4. Disconnect the sway bar from the strut, both sides if removing both struts
5. Remove the entire caliper via the two bolts, both bolts are reusable
6. Remove the rotor (for ease of access and lightens the load when re-installing struts)
7. Remove the lower strut pinch bolt and toss the bolt and nut in the trash
8. Remove the 3 lower ball joint nuts and toss in the nuts in the trash
9. Push the lower arm down and pull the ball joint out of the arm, the strut assembly should move freely.
10. Insert strut separator
11. Use a block of wood and a hammer, if needed, on the knuckle rim to force the knuckle down the strut shaft. Work the strut separator in different positions as needed to create the required space.

Loosen axle nut with wheel on the ground, then take out the nut after taking the weight off the wheel.

1. Nut loose, then off
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove rotor
4. Remove lower ball joint nutsx3

After the job is done, the last step is to torque the axle nut with the brakes applied, no weight on the wheel, to 200nm/150ft/lbs.
Then with the wheel on the hub and weight on the wheel, turn the axle nut 180deg.

I've quoted my two posts on this install, I don't like the 2x4 method.

 

[wesg]

Thanks to all for the tips in this thread. Just finished replacing struts and shocks on my GSW 4Motion. I didn't use the 2x4 method. I removed the axle bolt and ball joint nuts. Hardest part was lining up the strut with the knuckle when reinstalling.

I've done struts on Mk I and II GTIs, Civics, and Corollas, also B5 A4s and Passats. This was by far the toughest to work on.