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Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

Skeej

Ready to race!
Location
Usa
Car(s)
2017 Alltrack S 6MT
$26 and free shipping for a set of 21mm and 22mm strut nut sockets -
Since you linked DAP I guess you know about their DIY youtubes. Here's one:


ps: if you are super detail oriented you can go to VW parts and determine which bolts are stretch to fit, and replace as the vw shop manual calls for.
Dont forget torque wrench...
 

Skeej

Ready to race!
Location
Usa
Car(s)
2017 Alltrack S 6MT

Pickleahoy

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Port Orange, FL
Car(s)
2016 Golf R
I'm here to give a thumbs up to the axle bolt removal method to do front shocks. It was fast as hell to just get the brake rotor off, undo ball joint nut and bottom swing arm nuts, take the whole shock off with hub still attached.

This dude is an MK7 goldmine of timesaving tips:

I did not pull a YOLO on torque specs and replacement hardware though, but he advises against it anyway. Getting the strut nut torqued with the specialty socket was a breeze and cost almost nothing.
 

w124_karl

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
NC
I'm here to give a thumbs up to the axle bolt removal method to do front shocks. It was fast as hell to just get the brake rotor off, undo ball joint nut and bottom swing arm nuts, take the whole shock off with hub still attached.

This dude is an MK7 goldmine of timesaving tips:

I did not pull a YOLO on torque specs and replacement hardware though, but he advises against it anyway. Getting the strut nut torqued with the specialty socket was a breeze and cost almost nothing.
Yes, that does look like a real potential time saver. I’m going to do it that way when I put my Konis on. Guess it’d need other hardware replaced, like maybe the axle nuts if they’re single use. But still seems far easier!

Any trouble getting the hub and strut separated once they were off the car as a unit?
 

alper

Ready to race!
Thinking about my install the strut nuts are the only items not torqued to spec but by hand feel and I really would like to tick those off too.

I am considering ordering the tool now and just tightening the nut through the top dome in the engine bay (hopefully I haven't over-tightened it already). Thinking it should be do-able right? No issues with the strut being already fully installed? Nothing that needs explicit removing?
 

Pickleahoy

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Port Orange, FL
Car(s)
2016 Golf R
Yes, that does look like a real potential time saver. I’m going to do it that way when I put my Konis on. Guess it’d need other hardware replaced, like maybe the axle nuts if they’re single use. But still seems far easier!

Any trouble getting the hub and strut separated once they were off the car as a unit?
Shouldnt be an issue if you have the spreader, it will just need some hammering with a mallet for persuasion. I was only doing springs, so my job was easy peasy other than doing the 180 degrees on the axle bolt which just took a really long arm (I used the jack’s whole shaft)
 

mattkime

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
madison, wi
I started installing my bilstein B6's and golf r springs. I started on the front passenger side. The 2x4 method proved to be very slow. It took a whole bunch of blows with a rubber mallet to come off. I had to mark the strut with masking tape to show I was even making progress. If the driver's side proves to be this slow I'm just going to disconnect the axle. My theory is that there wasn't quite enough play for the strut to separate easily from the knuckle. Of course I'm concerned about similar trouble putting the new b6 strut back in.

My floor jack kept wanting to roll away when doing the 2x4 method. any tips on dealing with it? Its this model - https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...e-super-duty-rapid-pump-floor-jack-63183.html Its otherwise very nice.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
I started installing my bilstein B6's and golf r springs. I started on the front passenger side. The 2x4 method proved to be very slow. It took a whole bunch of blows with a rubber mallet to come off. I had to mark the strut with masking tape to show I was even making progress. If the driver's side proves to be this slow I'm just going to disconnect the axle. My theory is that there wasn't quite enough play for the strut to separate easily from the knuckle. Of course I'm concerned about similar trouble putting the new b6 strut back in.

My floor jack kept wanting to roll away when doing the 2x4 method. any tips on dealing with it? Its this model - https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...e-super-duty-rapid-pump-floor-jack-63183.html Its otherwise very nice.
You really need 2 people to make the 2 x 4 method faster. No matter the method, you need to really make sure you got the hubs spread fully.
 

xXDavidCXx

Go Kart Newbie
I think we as a community should get away from the 2x4 method.

Replacing the 6 lower ball joint bolts and the removing/replacing the axle bolt is not difficult, and gives more room to work.

Removing the rotor and caliper make it simple for one person.
 

mattkime

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
madison, wi
Just tried to place the the assembled strut into position and found the knuckle was in the way. Which makes sense since I had to navigate that on the way out. ....aaaaand I jsut measured the old strut and new - same length uninstalled.
 

mattkime

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
madison, wi
I just noticed that the sway bar is limiting my ability to lower the knuckle. Perhaps this is because I have only one corner of the vehicle lifted.

I definitely wonder if there's a detail like this thats being overlooked that contributes to such different experiences.
 
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GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
I just noticed that the sway bar is limiting my ability to lower the knuckle. Perhaps this is because I have only one corner of the vehicle lifted.

I definitely wonder if there's a detail like this thats being overlooked that contributes to such different experiences.
It should be understood that the car is on jack stands.
 

mattkime

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
madison, wi
The front of the car is on jack stands now. This is the problem I see - the top of the knuckle is above the bottom of the strut. The knuckle is seated in the arm but the arm won't go any lower.

IMG_5810.jpg
 
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