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Spring & Shock/Damper Installation Reference Guide

efaily

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Chicago 'burbs
Car(s)
2019 GTI SE Exp pkg
It looks great, glad you got it worked out. Any tire clearance issues? How did it change the ride and handling? Less body roll?
 
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HappyLegs

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Massachusetts
It looks great, glad you got it worked out. Any tire clearance issues? How did it change the ride and handling? Less body roll?
No tire clearance issues. Stock tire size (Pilot AS3+), 18" Prets, 15/20 spacers. No rubbing.

Definitely less roll and I would describe the car as more responsive. I haven't really taken it out for extended spirited driving, so not much feel for it yet. Have a couple track days coming up though.
 

alper

Ready to race!
Couple more questions while preparing my install:

a) Are 4 jack stands necessary or lifting only the axle you're working on is ok? (can't think of why this would matter...)

b) Hard to find a proper high pass-through 21mm socket for the top nut and I ain't using air tools so most definitely I'll be needing to counter-hold the inner torx thread at the top. Would this wrench fit around the top nut? Looks thin enough and the nut is not too much down in the assembly so it looks as if it could just clear it.

11-2205_xxl_1.jpg
Capture.PNG
 
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alper

Ready to race!
Ok, last questions I promise, just two days to installation anyway :p

I see the 2x4 is quite bulky for the space in there, especially for DCC struts with the connector body in the way. I have the option of either a square ~ 1.75"x1.75" (45mm x 45mm) or a 1.75" x 3" (45mm x 75mm), would I be better off with the smaller square? It should still be strong enough for this.

By continuing to read on this, I came across strap control-arm to jack suggestion from Vortex. It says the strap helps in pulling the control arm down but that doesn't sound good as too far down will disengage the axles from the transmission. However looking at it I guess it means "keeping the control arm fixed while stut is jacked up", so that you don't end up jacking the entire car up if the strut is not fully released from the knuckle.
Am I right and is it advised to use this extra strap indeed?


I swear I can't possibly have more questions...
 

xXDavidCXx

Go Kart Newbie
Ok, last questions I promise, just two days to installation anyway :p

I see the 2x4 is quite bulky for the space in there, especially for DCC struts with the connector body in the way. I have the option of either a square ~ 1.75"x1.75" (45mm x 45mm) or a 1.75" x 3" (45mm x 75mm), would I be better off with the smaller square? It should still be strong enough for this.

By continuing to read on this, I came across strap control-arm to jack suggestion from Vortex. It says the strap helps in pulling the control arm down but that doesn't sound good as too far down will disengage the axles from the transmission. However looking at it I guess it means "keeping the control arm fixed while stut is jacked up", so that you don't end up jacking the entire car up if the strut is not fully released from the knuckle.
Am I right and is it advised to use this extra strap indeed?


I swear I can't possibly have more questions...
I honestly don't have issues just disconnecting the axle and lower ball joint, then hitting the lower shock mount with a block of wood and a hammer.
 

GolfRRRR1

Ready to race!
Location
Michigan
Slightly off-topic but close; changing out the front knuckles (going to CSS knuckles), no springs or struts, etc., would it be easier to leave the strut attached to the top so you won't have to replace the bearings, etc and just drop the knuckle? Or do I just go whole hog and drop everything out and then re-install it? I'm changing the knuckles and will be doing springs and struts in a year or two. Car has <30k.
 

burtomr

Ready to race!
Location
Lone Star
Car(s)
Mk7 R
I see the 2x4 is quite bulky for the space in there, especially for DCC struts with the connector body in the way. I have the option of either a square ~ 1.75"x1.75" (45mm x 45mm) or a 1.75" x 3" (45mm x 75mm), would I be better off with the smaller square? It should still be strong enough for this...
I 'wood' use a 'hardwood' like oak or maple not the typical spruce/pine used for 2 x 4's! Then you can use a 1.5 x 1.5 or similar.
 

burtomr

Ready to race!
Location
Lone Star
Car(s)
Mk7 R
Couple more questions while preparing my install:

a) Are 4 jack stands necessary or lifting only the axle you're working on is ok? (can't think of why this would matter...)

b) Hard to find a proper high pass-through 21mm socket for the top nut and I ain't using air tools so most definitely I'll be needing to counter-hold the inner torx thread at the top. Would this wrench fit around the top nut? Looks thin enough and the nut is not too much down in the assembly so it looks as if it could just clear it.
a.) You only need to support the front of the car.

b.) Do you have an auto parts store nearby? O2 sensor sockets work great for the strut top nut, also they have easy access to the 7mm hex needed to hold the strut.
O2 socket.jpg
 

xXDavidCXx

Go Kart Newbie
Slightly off-topic but close; changing out the front knuckles (going to CSS knuckles), no springs or struts, etc., would it be easier to leave the strut attached to the top so you won't have to replace the bearings, etc and just drop the knuckle? Or do I just go whole hog and drop everything out and then re-install it? I'm changing the knuckles and will be doing springs and struts in a year or two. Car has <30k.
Keeping the strut attached makes it easier to pull the knuckle out. Then, if later you want to pull the strut out, you can.

Recap: the strut is the last to be removed and the first to be installed when removing/installing the hub/knuckle.
 

Acadia18

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Rhode Island
a.) You only need to support the front of the car.

b.) Do you have an auto parts store nearby? O2 sensor sockets work great for the strut top nut, also they have easy access to the 7mm hex needed to hold the strut.
View attachment 177105
Wrong size for the stock nut. Stock nut is 21mm, O2 Sensor Socket is 22mm; many aftermarket ones are a 22mm nut, but not on the stock strut.
 

alper

Ready to race!
HELP! Started the 2x4, all was fine and smooth, wood was rigidly attached via the screw to the strut, front strut was out and new spring in.

Now, I just can't get the strut seated back in the knuckle. I limited the LCA's travel with a wooden pallet below it to prevent disconnecting from the transmission. I drop the strut slowly via the 2x4, it is seated a few 2-3mm, and then it seems to get stuck (probably at an angle).

I try to jack the LCA but it just pushes the semi-seated strut up instead of allowing it to drop in deeper. What's worse, my spreader seems to not be that effective any more, it only opens the knuckle one mm or two. It looks as the strut is not at the perfect angle with the knuckle seat but I can't move the LCA towards it (towards the back of the car) unless i remove the pallet from below which I don't want to do in case I f@ck the drive shaft.

Also, I got a bit psychotic and think the drive shaft is already disconnected for some reason. Car is DSG and left in P but I can rotate the brake disk back and forwards if I put some force. It doesn't just spin freely per se but I can get it rotated back and forth. Am i screwed or??

Also, what's my getaway option if i can't get the strut seated? Granted I don't have the shaft bolt or ball joint bolts but just to put back everything and on a truck to get it to a shop (worst case scenario).


Thanks in advance!
 
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