No tire clearance issues. Stock tire size (Pilot AS3+), 18" Prets, 15/20 spacers. No rubbing.It looks great, glad you got it worked out. Any tire clearance issues? How did it change the ride and handling? Less body roll?
Yeap, i would buy that If I could find it in the local stores or have it delivered by next weekend, will keep looking... You reckon that stepped wrench won't do it?
I honestly don't have issues just disconnecting the axle and lower ball joint, then hitting the lower shock mount with a block of wood and a hammer.Ok, last questions I promise, just two days to installation anyway
I see the 2x4 is quite bulky for the space in there, especially for DCC struts with the connector body in the way. I have the option of either a square ~ 1.75"x1.75" (45mm x 45mm) or a 1.75" x 3" (45mm x 75mm), would I be better off with the smaller square? It should still be strong enough for this.
By continuing to read on this, I came across strap control-arm to jack suggestion from Vortex. It says the strap helps in pulling the control arm down but that doesn't sound good as too far down will disengage the axles from the transmission. However looking at it I guess it means "keeping the control arm fixed while stut is jacked up", so that you don't end up jacking the entire car up if the strut is not fully released from the knuckle.
Am I right and is it advised to use this extra strap indeed?
I swear I can't possibly have more questions...
I 'wood' use a 'hardwood' like oak or maple not the typical spruce/pine used for 2 x 4's! Then you can use a 1.5 x 1.5 or similar.I see the 2x4 is quite bulky for the space in there, especially for DCC struts with the connector body in the way. I have the option of either a square ~ 1.75"x1.75" (45mm x 45mm) or a 1.75" x 3" (45mm x 75mm), would I be better off with the smaller square? It should still be strong enough for this...
a.) You only need to support the front of the car.Couple more questions while preparing my install:
a) Are 4 jack stands necessary or lifting only the axle you're working on is ok? (can't think of why this would matter...)
b) Hard to find a proper high pass-through 21mm socket for the top nut and I ain't using air tools so most definitely I'll be needing to counter-hold the inner torx thread at the top. Would this wrench fit around the top nut? Looks thin enough and the nut is not too much down in the assembly so it looks as if it could just clear it.
Keeping the strut attached makes it easier to pull the knuckle out. Then, if later you want to pull the strut out, you can.Slightly off-topic but close; changing out the front knuckles (going to CSS knuckles), no springs or struts, etc., would it be easier to leave the strut attached to the top so you won't have to replace the bearings, etc and just drop the knuckle? Or do I just go whole hog and drop everything out and then re-install it? I'm changing the knuckles and will be doing springs and struts in a year or two. Car has <30k.
Wrong size for the stock nut. Stock nut is 21mm, O2 Sensor Socket is 22mm; many aftermarket ones are a 22mm nut, but not on the stock strut.