Should I Do A Full Suspension Overhaul With My Eventual Coilover Upgrade?

[scrllock]

The noise doesn't bother me as much as the feeling like the car is falling apart, even though it probably isn't going to.

What about the Whiteline Roll Centre/Camber Correction kit? Is there a replacement to that? So far, I'm thinking of the following:

Audi RS3 LCA control arms. But with so many RS3 control arms, which ones are the ones to use?
034 Street Density Strut Mounts. They're supposed to be OEM+? Or should I just get Lemforder, Sachs, or Febi Bilstein from FCP? With the big price difference between them all, I would think some are better than others despite all being OE/OEM quality. Do I need bearings too? Should I get the OE FCP strut mount kit instead?
Completely redo the B14 install and make sure it's done properly with new single-use hardware in case it wasn't before. Reduce the positive rake, make sure it is level, and to fix the bouncing on the highway. I don't want my passengers getting car sickness again...

How low is your car? Are you sure you need the roll center correction?

I would get whatever german-made OE mounts you can find personally, unless you like taking your struts out. You don't have to replace the bearing every time but if you have the FCP warranty I would.

 

[Leon2023]

I think the combination of both of them might be an issue with autocross rules classing, but not sure on that.

 

[geokilla]

First, I want to thank everyone for sharing all the data you learned about our cars and how we can improve it. I'm getting ready to fix my suspension noises. I didn't do anything last year as I fractured my wrist and I barely drove so I decided to leave it till this year. I went to Almost Racing today and after having them check my car for steering noises at full lock, they told me to do the following:

• Replace Whiteline control arms. Prefer to just press the bushings in since the Whiteline control arms are aluminum but probably easier to replace them as a whole.
• Replace Whiteline strut mounts
• Replace Whiteline and SuperPro endlinks with regular, non-adjustable endlinks.
• Replace spring isolators
• Raise my Bilstein B14s a bit so there's more suspension travel to get rid of the bounciness on a smooth highway
• Replace rear shock mounts? I never replaced them when I got my B14 installed. It's lived a hard life at the track and has 90k km on them.
• (I want to) Get the IS38 but I don't want a downpipe or intake so not sure what I can do.

According to all the research done by you guys, and based on the recommendations from Almost Racing, so far, I should buy the following:

• MK8R control arms. 81A407151F and 81A407152F.
• Meyle strut mount with bearing and 6 strut mount bolts.
• 2 VW coil spring insulator
• 2 Meyle HD sway bar link
• 2 Delphi rear sway bar link

I think these parts are all I'll need? Any recommendations by the suspension gurus?

 

[tigeo]

First, I want to thank everyone for sharing all the data you learned about our cars and how we can improve it. I'm getting ready to fix my suspension noises. I didn't do anything last year as I fractured my wrist and I barely drove so I decided to leave it till this year. I went to Almost Racing today and after having them check my car for steering noises at full lock, they told me to do the following:

• Replace Whiteline control arms. Prefer to just press the bushings in since the Whiteline control arms are aluminum but probably easier to replace them as a whole.
• Replace Whiteline strut mounts
• Replace Whiteline and SuperPro endlinks with regular, non-adjustable endlinks.
• Replace spring isolators
• Raise my Bilstein B14s a bit so there's more suspension travel to get rid of the bounciness on a smooth highway
• Replace rear shock mounts? I never replaced them when I got my B14 installed. It's lived a hard life at the track and has 90k km on them.
• (I want to) Get the IS38 but I don't want a downpipe or intake so not sure what I can do.

According to all the research done by you guys, and based on the recommendations from Almost Racing, so far, I should buy the following:

• MK8R control arms. 81A407151F and 81A407152F.
• Meyle strut mount with bearing and 6 strut mount bolts.
• 2 VW coil spring insulator
• 2 Meyle HD sway bar link
• 2 Delphi rear sway bar link

I think these parts are all I'll need? Any recommendations by the suspension gurus?

You certainly don't need a DP and intake to rub an IS38 on these cars. While many of the OTS tunes are calibrated for an aftermarket DP I fail to see how it really matters. Intake for sure is a "who cares" mod. Suspension list looks fine...OEM type stuff is always a good bet.

 

[ZERO815]

Don’t waste your money on front lower coil spring isolators. They won’t fit B14’s since you have an adjustable spring seat on them. Isolators are meant for factory style lower spring seats only.
On re-assembly double check the Bilstein instructions, make sure the transparent hose around the spring is up, and you have the right spring orientation.

 

[scrllock]

Why go to stock endlinks with height-adjustable coilovers?

 

[geokilla]

Why go to stock endlinks with height-adjustable coilovers?

That was my thought too, which is why I got Whiteline endlinks when my Superpro endlinks worn out. Almost Racing said said OE endlinks are fine despite being on B14 so who knows? I can use FCP's Lifetime Guarantee on my endlinks but if there's better adjustable endlinks out there that will last more than a a year, I'd rather get those instead. FCP has only 034 as an alternative.

Don’t waste your money on front lower coil spring isolators. They won’t fit B14’s since you have an adjustable spring seat on them. Isolators are meant for factory style lower spring seats only.
On re-assembly double check the Bilstein instructions, make sure the transparent hose around the spring is up, and you have the right spring orientation.

That's interesting, since Almost Racing did a check on it and said they'll work no problem. He did suspect there was an install issue in the past, but he probably doesn't remember. I was in and out of the shop within 20 minutes...

You certainly don't need a DP and intake to rub an IS38 on these cars. While many of the OTS tunes are calibrated for an aftermarket DP I fail to see how it really matters. Intake for sure is a "who cares" mod. Suspension list looks fine...OEM type stuff is always a good bet.

But if the tune is designed to be run with an aftermarket downpipe, won't my IS38 or more importantly, my engine, get damaged without it? IE has an IS38 tune without downpipe but given that it'll cost me around $3k and IE dropping the ball with the rolling anti-lag, I'm now having second thoughts on doing this.

 

[tigeo]

That was my thought too, which is why I got Whiteline endlinks when my Superpro endlinks worn out. Almost Racing said said OE endlinks are fine despite being on B14 so who knows? I can use FCP's Lifetime Guarantee on my endlinks but if there's better adjustable endlinks out there that will last more than a a year, I'd rather get those instead. FCP has only 034 as an alternative.

Unless you are significantly lowering the car, the stock end links will work fine. The key would be if the stockers create an issue by which the front sway bar ends are angled such that they contact the chassis/suspension and the end links needs to be lengthened. My adjustable ones are set to the same size as my stockers and I'm 1.5" lower up front, no issues.

 

[scrllock]

That was my thought too, which is why I got Whiteline endlinks when my Superpro endlinks worn out. Almost Racing said said OE endlinks are fine despite being on B14 so who knows? I can use FCP's Lifetime Guarantee on my endlinks but if there's better adjustable endlinks out there that will last more than a a year, I'd rather get those instead. FCP has only 034 as an alternative

Never tried them so I couldn't say, but it depends on the sway bar, which hole you're using and how lowered you are. Preload is set at full droop.

But if the tune is designed to be run with an aftermarket downpipe, won't my IS38 or more importantly, my engine, get damaged without it? IE has an IS38 tune without downpipe but given that it'll cost me around $3k and IE dropping the ball with the rolling anti-lag, I'm now having second thoughts on doing this.

Depends on the tune. Your wastegate control will be off. IS38s are sensitive enough to being overspun that I wouldn't run a "stage 2" file without a downpipe. Lots of options out there though. Hugely not a fan of IE, they dropped the ball on Simos18 RAL twice now. Obvious lack of testing on their part. I assume you saw that guy on reddit who flashed the new file and immediately went into limp mode for overboost. Not a good look.

 

[ZERO815]

 

[geokilla]

Unless you are significantly lowering the car, the stock end links will work fine. The key would be if the stockers create an issue by which the front sway bar ends are angled such that they contact the chassis/suspension and the end links needs to be lengthened. My adjustable ones are set to the same size as my stockers and I'm 1.5" lower up front, no issues.

Considering I want to raise the car a bit from its current height, I guess I'll take the risk and get the stock endlinks then, thanks. Trying to get rid of the head bobble I'm currently getting on a newly paved highway. Their suggestion was to raise it a bit more.

Depends on the tune. Your wastegate control will be off. IS38s are sensitive enough to being overspun that I wouldn't run a "stage 2" file without a downpipe. Lots of options out there though. Hugely not a fan of IE, they dropped the ball on Simos18 RAL twice now. Obvious lack of testing on their part. I assume you saw that guy on reddit who flashed the new file and immediately went into limp mode for overboost. Not a good look.

IE is saying the RAL is working as programmed. I doubt it though. /u/SpiritualZombie2063 on Reddit says the new tune has the IS20 peaking and holding 28 PSI and he's getting flutter. 28 PSI seems dangerously high based on everything I read.

View attachment 318320

Sorry what am I looking at? The prior shop installed it twice and has done tons of B14 and B16 installs on MK7s so I presume they did it correctly...

 

[scrllock]

IE is saying the RAL is working as programmed. I doubt it though. /u/SpiritualZombie2063 on Reddit says the new tune has the IS20 peaking and holding 28 PSI and he's getting flutter. 28 PSI seems dangerously high based on everything I read.

Not sure the RAL was the problem. I think they screwed up the tune itself, boost or wastegate setpoint was too high. Total clown tuner.

 

[ZERO815]

The upper end of the coil spring needs to be towards the outside on each side.

 

[MonkeyMD]

Considering I want to raise the car a bit from its current height, I guess I'll take the risk and get the stock endlinks then, thanks. Trying to get rid of the head bobble I'm currently getting on a newly paved highway. Their suggestion was to raise it a bit more.

IE is saying the RAL is working as programmed. I doubt it though. /u/SpiritualZombie2063 on Reddit says the new tune has the IS20 peaking and holding 28 PSI and he's getting flutter. 28 PSI seems dangerously high based on everything I read.

Sorry what am I looking at? The prior shop installed it twice and has done tons of B14 and B16 installs on MK7s so I presume they did it correctly...

You'll be fine. I'm B14 on stock end links. About 2 finger gap if that tell you anything about ride height