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Should I Do A Full Suspension Overhaul With My Eventual Coilover Upgrade?

GoatAutomotive

Autocross Champion
Location
Georgetown, TX
Car(s)
2017 VW GTI SE, DSG

tigeo

Autocross Champion
Coilovers just set too low. You have no bump travel on the damper. Add preload which is on these is the method of increasing ride height by turning the spring seats up.
 

geokilla

Go Kart Champion
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Car(s)
2018 VW GTI DSG
So VW specialists are saying I screwed up my car by doing so many changes at once. One said there was absolutely no need to install any of the Whiteline products in my signature unless it's a dedicated track car. Maybe just throw on the Audi RS3 control arms at best.

Right now, my car is making all sorts of noises when there is even the slightest steering input that isn't a lane change, in addition to all the noises I mentioned before. To make matters worse, no one is free to take a look at my car for at least another month. I really screwed up didn't I?
 

manu97

Autocross Champion
Location
Chicago
Car(s)
MK7 R
So VW specialists are saying I screwed up my car by doing so many changes at once. One said there was absolutely no need to install any of the Whiteline products in my signature unless it's a dedicated track car. Maybe just throw on the Audi RS3 control arms at best.

Right now, my car is making all sorts of noises when there is even the slightest steering input that isn't a lane change, in addition to all the noises I mentioned before. To make matters worse, no one is free to take a look at my car for at least another month. I really screwed up didn't I?
What sort of noise? A creak? Clunk?
 

geokilla

Go Kart Champion
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Car(s)
2018 VW GTI DSG
What sort of noise? A creak? Clunk?
In addition to the clunk and knocking sounds, it's creaking, groaning, steel hammering (probably not the best description).

As much as I want to attend the next HPDE, probably not a good idea to do so? It still handled great at the track last time. Just that it's making noises.
 

manu97

Autocross Champion
Location
Chicago
Car(s)
MK7 R
In addition to the clunk and knocking sounds, it's creaking, groaning, steel hammering (probably not the best description).

As much as I want to attend the next HPDE, probably not a good idea to do so? It still handled great at the track last time. Just that it's making noises.
Any rubbing of end links against the body?

Everything is tight? The groaning may be a lack of lubrication for the bushings?

Not confident, just spitballing.
 

tigeo

Autocross Champion
This just sounds like 100% install issues here. My car has tons of suspension/chassis stuff on it is dead silent.
 

geokilla

Go Kart Champion
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Car(s)
2018 VW GTI DSG
Dropped it off at the mechanic today so they can try and fix the coilovers. Found this thread that said the mounts/bearings might not be flush so I brought that up as well. I think it's possible I'm getting coil bind noises since a lot of the groaning, clunking, and "hammering" sounds come when I'm steering, regardless of whether I'm on an incline, decline, or flat service. Hopefully they can solve it for me cus it's definitely not a normal sound. Also sent them the info about the pre-load and optimum adjustment height as per the B14 manual. Will report back later.

I guess this is one of those things where if I was handy with cars, I can attempt to do it myself. Though I don't think I got the locking collar thing in the box either.... I need to check.
 

geokilla

Go Kart Champion
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Car(s)
2018 VW GTI DSG
The mechanic reinstalled my Bilstein B14. Many thanks to everyone's advice and suggestions. I passed the info to the mechanic so hopefully it helped. I just came back from spending the long weekend trip in Montreal. The suspension feels a lot better as it's actually absorbing bumps and the ride height is no longer slammed. Surprisingly, the BFI stage 1 engine mounts no longer cause severe NVH at idle and when reversing either

There's still a bit of noise when steering but it's not as crazy as before. The mechanic think it's coming from the endlinks and there's nothing else they can do. Also Is the B14 set a bit too high? Is it possible to go a tad lower? Photos as attached. There's about a big enough gap for me to fit my index and middle fingers. I'm thinking of getting a second shop to take a look as well since you guys said there should be no noise whatsoever.

While I was at the mechanic, there was a Lexus IS250 on old coilovers and the metal threads were extremely rusted. As I live in Toronto, there's going to be salt and rust in the winter. Is there anything I can do to protect the coilovers? I understand they generally need a rebuild, in my case, probably after 3-4 years and 50k km since I track the car. My OEM shocks and springs seem perfectly fine though after 5 years and 70k km.
 

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Last edited:

nomunic

Drag Racing Champion
Location
East Coast
Car(s)
MK7
The mechanic reinstalled my Bilstein B14. Many thanks to everyone's advice and suggestions. I passed the info to the mechanic so hopefully it helped. I just came back from spending the long weekend trip in Montreal. The suspension feels a lot better as it's actually absorbing bumps and the ride height is no longer slammed. Surprisingly, the BFI stage 1 engine mounts no longer cause severe NVH at idle and when reversing either

There's still a bit of noise when steering but it's not as crazy as before. The mechanic think it's coming from the endlinks and there's nothing else they can do. Also Is the B14 set a bit too high? Is it possible to go a tad lower? Photos as attached. There's about a big enough gap for me to fit my index and middle fingers. I'm thinking of getting a second shop to take a look as well since you guys said there should be no noise whatsoever.

While I was at the mechanic, there was a Lexus IS250 on old coilovers and the metal threads were extremely rusted. As I live in Toronto, there's going to be salt and rust in the winter. Is there anything I can do to protect the coilovers? I understand they generally need a rebuild, in my case, probably after 3-4 years and 50k km since I track the car. My OEM shocks and springs seem perfectly fine though after 5 years and 70k km.
I’ve been fighting b14 discomfort for a while now, just read through this thread. I’m around the same ride height atm, I think it’s 6 spins at the threads at the front and 7 at the rear. I don’t know the mm measurement rn. It rides pretty well, and I think it’s helped me be less bouncy when I’m taking a corner at high speed. I also live on the east coast of the US which gets a bunch of road salt and the threads still spin freely.
 

DSC808

Autocross Champion
Location
HI State
Car(s)
2016 GTI SE MT
As I live in Toronto, there's going to be salt and rust in the winter. Is there anything I can do to protect the coilovers?
Can try spray some Fluid Film. Supposed to protect against rust. I use it on my exhaust/muffler and I guess it works. Maybe a tiny spot here and there but they wipe off.
 

geokilla

Go Kart Champion
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Car(s)
2018 VW GTI DSG
I forgot to mention, I did feel like the suspension bobbles a bit on the highway even on flat surface. What could be the cause of that?
 

tigeo

Autocross Champion
I forgot to mention, I did feel like the suspension bobbles a bit on the highway even on flat surface. What could be the cause of that?
What do you mean by "bobbles"?
 

tigeo

Autocross Champion
The mechanic reinstalled my Bilstein B14. Many thanks to everyone's advice and suggestions. I passed the info to the mechanic so hopefully it helped. I just came back from spending the long weekend trip in Montreal. The suspension feels a lot better as it's actually absorbing bumps and the ride height is no longer slammed. Surprisingly, the BFI stage 1 engine mounts no longer cause severe NVH at idle and when reversing either

There's still a bit of noise when steering but it's not as crazy as before. The mechanic think it's coming from the endlinks and there's nothing else they can do. Also Is the B14 set a bit too high? Is it possible to go a tad lower? Photos as attached. There's about a big enough gap for me to fit my index and middle fingers. I'm thinking of getting a second shop to take a look as well since you guys said there should be no noise whatsoever.

While I was at the mechanic, there was a Lexus IS250 on old coilovers and the metal threads were extremely rusted. As I live in Toronto, there's going to be salt and rust in the winter. Is there anything I can do to protect the coilovers? I understand they generally need a rebuild, in my case, probably after 3-4 years and 50k km since I track the car. My OEM shocks and springs seem perfectly fine though after 5 years and 70k km.
You can go lower but as we have discussed in this thread, with this style of coilover, the lower the ride height the less bump travel you have the more bouncy it will be. You can't have these be both v. low and "ride ok". If you want low low and still retain some bump travel (it will still be somewhat limited on that style as the damper has an overall shorter length to accomodate the adjustable body) you need to use the type of coilover with a threaded body that allows independent adjustment of ride height from pre-load as well as choice of coil spring rate.
 

geokilla

Go Kart Champion
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Car(s)
2018 VW GTI DSG
What do you mean by "bobbles"?
On the highway on a flat surface, I can feel the car bouncing up and down a bit. Our heads were bouncing up and down. More obvious on the passenger side vs driver side.

You can go lower but as we have discussed in this thread, with this style of coilover, the lower the ride height the less bump travel you have the more bouncy it will be. You can't have these be both v. low and "ride ok". If you want low low and still retain some bump travel (it will still be somewhat limited on that style as the damper has an overall shorter length to accomodate the adjustable body) you need to use the type of coilover with a threaded body that allows independent adjustment of ride height from pre-load as well as choice of coil spring rate.
So I should probably leave it as is? Or is the bounce and sound normal? The second mechanic are MK7 experts and have an alignment rack that they can use for coilover installs, which apparently makes a difference when installing coilovers and endlinks since they can load up the components?
 
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