Rest in Pieces 3rd gear

[Ironshade]

I’m doing it very soon, as for the clutch line. Get the stainless steel usp upgrade. Thats what i have in my car.

 

[MeltedSolid]

I decided to bail on the USP line and went with the ECS one for a bit more money, but at least it'll be arriving tomorrow rather than next week.

 

[Ironshade]

Obd 11. Theres a place for transmission. Must look more into it, i messaged the guy to get more info. But this sounds promising for the ecu!

https://youtu.be/dOc6A5_riCo

 

[MeltedSolid]

Oh whoa! I didn't know someone had done an auto to manual swap already. That makes my project look a bit small in comparison .

 

[MeltedSolid]

Whelp, bad news. New clutch line didn't change anything... Now I have no clue what could be causing the issue. The clutch is disengaging just barely enough to start the car, and it feels like it gets worse every time I drive it. I am certain I tightened all of the bolts on the clutch fully... why the hell isn't this working... I don't think it's the master cylinder because if it was then it wouldn't have ever worked to begin with... Ideas?

 

[Ironshade]

Either air in line still. Or you have a clutch pedal bump stop that needs to be removed.

 

[MeltedSolid]

I did remove my clutch stop, and I took it to a shop and they said they kept bleeding it and bleeding it and nothing. The part I don't understand is why it's getting worse... If it were merely a constant issue at least I'd know that it's some kind of incompatibility, but it was working fine at one point. Also, I'm not loosing any brake fluid, in fact it was slightly above max the entire time from my initial bleed when I first installed the transmission to today when I installed the ECS clutch line...

 

[russiankid]

How do you know the clutch is not disengaging all the way?

 

[MeltedSolid]

It rolls forward with the clutch fully in and in gear, and shifting gears is almost impossible without perfect rev matching. At the moment I need to turn the car off to get into reverse and 1st from a stop.

 

[russiankid]

Could be a faulty TOB like mentioned. Which brand is it?

 

[MeltedSolid]

LUK according to ECS. It looked identical to the one I took out.

So here are the possible issues I'm thinking:

Hydraulics:

- Why am I not loosing any fluid?

Master Cylinder:

- Could be too small

- Why was it working earlier then?​

- Could be broken?

- What could have broken it?​

Slave Cylinder:

- Could be broken?

- What could have broken it?
- Was it bad from the factory (DOA)?​

Bleeder Block:

- Could be broken?

- I did the delay valve delete, is that a no-no on the mk6?
- Did it get damaged when shipped on the transmission?​

clutch assembly:

Bolt coming loose:

- I thought I was pretty good about using a torque wrench
- Surely that would make it slip more rather than disengage later

- Clutch still holds power fine​

An incompatibility:

- Why was it working fine initially?​

Something else I can't think of:

- *shrug*​

I'm taking it to a local VWAG tuning shop next week to see if they can figure it out, because at the moment I don't have the time or tools to take the transmission out again.

 

[russiankid]

Is it possible the slave is losing pressure internally but not leaking externally? The bleeder block restricts fluid when releasing the clutch so I highly doubt the bleeder is the issue. If something came loose, I think you would notice either a vibration or noise of some sort.

 

[MeltedSolid]

It's hard for me to diagnose anything noise wise because it's a totally different transmission with a single mass flywheel, and I know the mk6 with a single mass flywheel is supposed to be pretty noisy (it is, but plenty livable). I don't have much to compare against.

 

[Ironshade]

Check under your brake booster for leaks? Mine went out 2x and had to be warranted

 

[MeltedSolid]

Your master cylinder went out twice?